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2B Rear Suspension

Ian Maycock

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Sorned the car on Sunday. Judging by the weather on Sunday and today I may have been a little premature. Anyhow, I have started my winter project of replacing the rear shocks and springs. I have no problem with the mountings but wondered what poundage of spring to use and what length of shocks to go for? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.


Also, while doing this I was wondering if I should fit camber wedges. I have heard mention of these many times. I understand the principal but could someone please explain what these are and where should be fitted? Is it worth fitting them?

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They fit in between the backplate and the upright.

They pull the bottom of the wheel in and the front of the wheel into line with the front wheels.

A lot of people don't do it but I have.

They improve the stance of the car, tyre wear and handling.

Well worth doing.

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Mine has 13.5" open x 9" closed dampers and I think the springs are 300lbs. I'm thinking of changing the springs to 350lbs as at the moment I have to run the dampers really hard and stronger springs with decreased damping should give a bit more compliance at the rear, which should mean better cornering and less/more controlled breakaway.

Because of the way the rear beam is mounted it induces negative camber and toe in, which only increase the more suspension compresses. I have the one dimensional wedges that Peter Bell made to correct the camber and have also added shims to remove the toe in. The wheels now run straight and true which as well as making the car drive better has also reduced tyre wear quite significantly.

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You will see the brackets you will need for the rear shocks under for sale. Titled various parts for sale-rear shocks and mounts.

They are now sold at really bargain prices. Shocks to myself, I think Tractor Chris bought the brackets but not sure.

I have pointed them out for you to see just what you will need.

Take care and see exactly which parts you need as my top sliding mounts are square going into hight adjustable square tubes.

I think you will still be able to gat the full kit from GBS.

Won't be cheap from them but if needs must.

Sad you missed out on these but I couldn't miss a bargain.

Now in my spares box.

Edited by 2b cruising
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My car was supplied with four 13" zimmerides from Robin Hood and was built around those, but a lot of the kits came with 17" for the rear, so best to check what size you need by measuring what space you have between where your new mounting points are likely to be and get dampers that suit.

The 2D wedges will correct both camber and toe in by pushing the top and the front of the wheel out at the same time.

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Mine was hard work, and I don't think typical of these jobs, as the original bolts had been replaced with slightly longer bolts that had clearly been more susceptible to rusting and simply not as strong as the original stock Blue bolts. The longer exposed thread on the back had really badly suffered from corrosion. The other side was fine, and was the original 'blue' bolts hence I could make this direct comparison.


Its all since been off when I replaced the Diff this year and no problems, still not got round to putting the camber shims in place though - but at least I know I wont have issues when / if I do this time.


One thing of note I think, the lower the suspension, the more exaggerated the camber becomes due to the way the geometry of the arm swings. My car does not have a particularly low rear suspension setup, and I suspect that the shims may over correct it unless I then lowered the suspension a little. - I think for me it will be one of those fit and test situations when I get some time over winter.


All fun and once again, the never ending tweaking continues....

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