2B Or 2B Plus?

[dandan62]

Just joined and am searching for my first Robin Hood. Just looked at a 2b plus. Sorry for such a basic question but what is the difference to a standard 2b.

[nicko]

Depends on the year. 2004 when I got my kit, the standard 2b had sliding pillar suspension and mild steel, the plus was supposed to be a complete kit with all stainless and wishbones at the front.

HTH

Nick

P.S. you could add stainless to the standard 2b as an option

[Guest peter2b2002]

got my 2b+ in 2002 wish bone front but had the choice of stainless or a mild steel chassis

peter2b

[Steve49er]

Got mine from someone who had it built by GBS in December 2007 when I initially visited GBS they said the 2B Plus was 3.5" wider to give Passenger and Driver a little more elbow room.

 

Having made this statement I am sure someone else will dispute it but that was what I was told by GBS when I initially visited quite a few years ago prior to the Jig to build the Tubular Framework / Chassis was " Cut Up and disposed of " by GBS . So I understand

 

I like my 2B+ very much

 

Steve

[Guest paul heath]

Bought my 2b 3 weeks ago needs a bit of tlc

But doesn't fail to put a smile on my face

[megadodo]

When I got my kit in 2007 the + donated swinging arm front suspension and all the parts to build a kit. If you got "just" the 2B you had to buy extra packages to complete the car. I think later on the swinging arm became standard for even the none + kit. The chassis width was the same on both options, the 2B was built to be bigger from the very start. Within either of those choices there were more option such a stainless chassis or body panels, colour of the GRP parts etc.

[Dean Roberts]

I don't think it matters much as long as your looking at purchasing/building a 2B or Zero.

 

More importantly make sure its built correctly/legal and safe and at the end of the day after a quick blast around the roads, you will be smiling.

If not then you can easily sell it on and pick another or fix what your unhappy with on the one you own.

 

I have a 2B (dunno if its a 2B+ or not) , cos my front suspension was custom fitted and doesn't match any of the criteria or the originals.

[Guest janis]

I think biggest difference will be front suspension sliding pillar or double wishbone...even if u have sliding pillar u can upgrade later on for double wishbone...look more into build quality etc..try to get more for your money..u can get one pretty basic or one cared for with lots of goodies like custom gauges..bike carbs or webers..cos later on u will want to upgrade and its very expensive all this wee things..try to look at as many possible and drive a few before u buy cos there is no two the same and one 2b can be crap to drive and cheap feel and other one can be lovely..so thats why u need to shop around and see many dont just buy firs one..

[tractor]

also if you buy one from a rhocar member then they are still contactable if you require information further info about build or parts or servicing

[Guest Jonathan.Ritchie]

As stated above.. I went for a cheap 2B. It felt ok on the short drive I had in it before I handed over the money but I think my heart deffinately ruled my head in that instance. On the drive home the main beam died, I had no speedo and when my mate pressed an unmarked button on the dash he swears his crotch got an electric shock... (there was sparks and smoke but I'm pretty sure it was from the ignition switch but the shock may have given him a funny feeling downstairs)

 

2 days later the cycle wing bracket snapped lodging the cycle wing between the suspension and the wheel.

 

on closer investagation the sliding pillar arrangement was what can only be explained as dangerous.

 

oh and also the passengers seat back was snapped in half

 

In the long run, £2000 for a kit car and I've shelled out more than that to rebuild it propperly,

 

Wishbone suspension conversion, new seats , engine rebuild, new brakes all round, coilovers on the back, new wiring loom (yet to find a wire in the car that has not got damaged insulation) new GRP for wings and cone, new alloys, vynil wrap and leather apholstry...

 

That's when the money dried up, luckilly it has a pinto EFI engine so it should be pretty bullet proof but I'm still going to have to look into new gauges at some point as it still has the original sierra cluster and a set of new engine internals once money becomes available again.

 

Been 5 years since I dumped the car in my garage and only started working on it again in the last few months as there was always another problem I found every time I looked and I just got fed up with it.

 

But after I get everything fitted and make the car in a way that I have confidence in the way it is built and the looks to how I want them I'm sure the smile will never be off my face.

 

Moral of the story.. If i went a bit more expensive for a well built car and read up more about what I was buying at this point I'd have a lot more money in the bank (or at least another guitar) and would have had 5 fun filled years of driving a great car.