Pinto Sump Gasket

[Thrashed]

Hi all

 

As all Pinto's, do I have a leaky sump gasket!

 

What is the best make to buy and what is the best way to ensure a leak free sump?

 

Is it best to use some gasket sealer, if so what type?

 

Any guidance appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Steve

 

 

 

[Gusty]

Hi,

 

I used a victor reinz gasket and Loctite SI 5990 sealer (halfords fiver) . Seemed to do the trick

 

Ps dont over tighten the bolts and don't over do the sealer or else it will squidge out into the sump, possibly break off , clog the oil pick up and then engine rebuild!

Edited July 2, 2016 by Gusty

[Thrashed]

Cool, thanks. How tight is too tight? as I did mine up to the book torque and it leaked but tightened them up a bit more the other day and it leaked less?

 

Any trick to ensure the bolts are the right torque?

[Guest 2b cruising]

Ultimate cure for pinto oil leaks.

Either a drip tray underneath it, or change the type of engine.

Incoming. *********

[Gusty]

I hadn't got a torque wrench that went low enough so I just guessed and nipped them up . I put Loctite on the threads as well. I've got a drip from one of the bolts but that's it . I will put that one to bed next week!!

[Guest mcramsay]

I was always taught never to put any kind of sealant on a gasket especially cork, it was even written on our apprentice training manual ( nuclear industry and surprisingly we use cork a lot on low pressure oil systems) I am assuming the gasket is cork or the modern day equivalent. Nebar or something like that. I would remove the sumo and put a straight edge across and make sure it's flat, clean the two mating surfaces and then torque as per oem. Too tight on some gaskets is worse than too loose. Cork type joints have a very low torque to seal factor. If you still have oil leaking from bolts rather than the side of the joint then I would use correctly sized dowty seals aka bonded seals. That will seal the underside of the bolt head to the sump face.

 

The cork gasket relies on the friction of the two mating faces holding it in place, if you put a sealant on with it its like buttering it up so it can slide between the surfaces either into out out of the sumo causing the bolt holes cut in the joint o elongate / rip

[Guest 2b cruising]

I think a lot of the problem lies with the sump metal being so thin, the bolts distort the face through whatever gasket is used.

When the sump is removed I've always found it dood practice to check the holes and if needed press the surface back to correct possition using a ball pien hammer.

Just don't bend the edge down when this is done.

On quality builds the designers usually double the thickness of the bolt area using an extra strip of metal along the outside of the hole line. This also helps keep an even pressure between the holes. Several pieces of strip can be used by doing two holes each time but is not quite as effective then between the runs of holes.

Pi toes and many others use mass produced single piece pressings for one reason only. Cost.

[Guest grimbo]

didn`t the pinto sump have the same type of washers as the rocker cover to spread the load?

[Guest 2b cruising]

Yes, if they are still there.

Still crap though.

[agent_zed]

sorry if it makes you jelous but my pinto sump doesn't have any leaks. I just used the cork gasket and made sure it was clean. Just tap down any raised points and don't overtighten.

 

or perhaps i don't have any oil

[cb750]

Never had a pinto sump gasket leak. As previously said, check the flatness of the sump sealing face and torque down to specification. I always use hylomar blue thinly applied and allowed to flash off before assembly, either that or wellseal. Victor Reinz gaskets are excellent.

[maccavvy]

I've got whatever the local motor spares sells...make sure you have the washers ..and as mentioned..a straight edge to make sure they bolt holes aren't distorted .over tightening does this.