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Cam swap


Del1968
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Hi all after a bit of advice 

at the moment I have a 2.0 pinto with injection head on and a Kent fr32 cam running on a Weber 32/36 carb ever since I had the head put on with the cam I just feel it’s not running right it’s been Ona rolling rd and tuned but just like the way it runs the engine seems to get hot quick and temp it’s to about 90 and then drops to about 60 to 80 depending on traffic I am very reluctant to take it on a long drive cause I not sure about it was looking at putting the std cam back in and not looking to do a land speed record in it just to be able to enjoy it more any advice on changing the cam back 

Edited by richyb66
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Hi when you say you don’t like how it runs can you be a bit more specific 

a lot of things depends on how you drive.  
the Fr32 has a power band from 2500- 7000 if you sit around 2000rpm cruising it will never be “On Cam” 

as for the Temp. The gauge is just a guide. Treat it as such never assume an engine is hot cold or sideways 

ask most of the chaps running smiths flight with a zetec with gauges showing nearly 100c when a laser temp will show the same engine temp around 75-82c 

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It’s had new thermostat about2 months ago and it does open up the engine not over heating but does seem to run hot could that be down to the type of cam I got 

as for the way it runs it’s if it’s running lumpy but had new spark plugs and leads checked timing and that looks ok I know a little about cars but not a great deal just wondering if any one else has the fr32 and hat their experience is with it and how they find it or am I being a bit fussy 😂😂

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The FR 32 is a very good cam as a first start to tuning the pinto. I ran one in a standard engine, then over time I added a large inlet valve head, then twin 40s.

The cam ran well in all these configurations. Although the spec does say from 2500 rpm, thats when it starts pulling really well, but It still has plenty of torque from 2000 upwards.

The cam itself wont cause overheating. I'd look at checking cam timing, ignition timing, thermostat installed right way round, no air locks in the cooling system.

To get the best from the cam you need a modified dizzy. The cam needs more advance at tickover, without altering the maximum advance, a standard dizzy will result in a lumpy tickover.

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I have the Aldron performance electronic distributor without vacuum advance fitted also Lucus gold sports coil  can say it is quick above 2000 rpm think it’s just idle that I am more concerned about ts not a smoth idle but was told by the guy that fitted the head a couple years ago that the cam does give a lumpy feel on tick over 

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that should be fine.

mark the TDC on the crank pulley. Set the strobe to 37 degrees and then rev  the engine to 3500 (point of maximum advance)

It should match, if not adjust the dizzy. Once thats done, set the strobe to 14 degrees & check tickover. Again it should match,

if not speak to Aldon & see if they can help modifying your dizzy/ecu

This will help..

http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/

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The Ford VV carb is not one of the best. Look for a Weber DGV, (manual choke) or DGAV (auto choke), or a DGAS (hens teeth)

you will also need the manifold that goes with it, yours will not fit.

Otherwise you can get a refurb kit for the VV here..

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/fordfomocomotorcraft-vv-carbcarburettor-servicegasket-kit

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5 hours ago, Bob Tucker said:

The Ford VV carb is not one of the best. Look for a Weber DGV, (manual choke) or DGAV (auto choke), or a DGAS (hens teeth)

you will also need the manifold that goes with it, yours will not fit.

Otherwise you can get a refurb kit for the VV here..

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/fordfomocomotorcraft-vv-carbcarburettor-servicegasket-kit

He said he has a Webber fitted 

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