Jump to content


Community user
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2B
  • Full name
    Kevin Mackenzie

Profile Information

  • Location
    East Kilbride

Recent Profile Visitors

974 profile views

RevKev's Achievements


Builder (2/5)



  1. RevKev

    bike carbs

    Hi I ended up using a push bike brake cable and filing down the barrel end to fit into the bike carb. Just a bit tedious to do but it works. Sierra pedal has far too much travel for the bike carb set up so you might need to re-drill the pedal closer to the pivot to reduce the amount of travel. Find a way of putting stops on the pedal travel too so you don't over stress the carbs when your size 10's are mashing into the carpet. I also found that the spring return on the bike carbs is not enough to lift the weight of the pedal so put some extra springs on the pedal to return it. It does take time to set all this up but that's what kit cars are about ... finding solutions to problems and once it's done you'll be chuffed and if it breaks you'll know exactly how to fix it. Kevin
  2. RevKev

    Windscreen Glass

    Hi. thanks to you all for your help and advice. Seems the best plan is to fit the windscreen after the IVA. Rev Kev
  3. RevKev

    Windscreen Glass

    Hi One of the issues about picking up abondoned projects is that some stuff might be out of date. I'm wondering if this might be the case with the windscreen glass for my RH 2B. The glass is marked BS857/2 1967 which I believe is a British Standard that is still in use but the IVA manual referrs to E 43R. Is my windscreen glass for the bin or is it still OK for IVA with these older markings? All advice welcome! Rev Kev
  4. RevKev

    Pinto Airbox

    Hi I'm running similar carbs on my 2l Pinto. These tubes are breathers to the float chanbers and need to be open to the atmosphere. They were originally fitted to the air box so I think you are Ok if you are building an air box to connect them up. Just as a side note... if you ever getting a stuck float petrol will pour out of these tubes. This is better than it getting forced past the main needle straight into the manifold. So there can be a plus to not connecting them to the air box. If you are unsure how well theses carbs have been serviced or looked after leave them unconnected to the air box until you feel happy with them. Kevin
  5. RevKev

    General mechanics

    Hi Iain I'm up in sunny East Kilbride. My Mrs comes from Moffat. Small world eh? I'm working on a RH 2B from an abandoned project. Progress is slow but at least it progresses. Not sure I'm in a position to offer spanner time but you're welcome to keep in touch. There is a Scottish Kit Car Club but I've never joined it. This is the place to be if you are looking for helpful advice. Kevin
  6. Hi I have one of these as well. Having removed the PCV valve the elbow will allow you to connect to an oil catch can. What you need is the rubber grommet that fits to the crankcase section in your picture and then the elbow is a push fit into the grommet. No need to remove the crankcase section as it has a little baffle inside that helps prevent oil splashing up. It is also a tapered fitting which the straight sections on the elbow will not seat into. See if there is a grommet on your old PCV valve that you can rescue or failing that try Burton. Of course someone with more knowledge might say I'm totally wrong but that's what I've got on my set up. If I stand to be corrected then both of us have learned something new!!!! Kevin
  7. RevKev

    r1 carbs

    Hi I have the same set up and use individual cone air filters purchased from eBay. Basically dirt bike air filters. i'm not saying they are the best and would love to put on a Pipercross set up but money doesn't allow at the moment. I'll attach a picture later.
  8. Hi If you stil have that Array allow I could be interested in it. Can you send pictures if its still in your possession? Yours Kevin
  9. Perhaps a relay in your electrical system between key and starter solenoid that is sticking.
  10. So... I believe the trick is to go by the dip stick level not the quantity. Too much oil is just as bad as too little. The dip stick may be shortened to go along with the lowered sump. So the Max level is still correct in relation to big end bearings not splashing about in oil as they rotate. So fill it little by little and take a note of how much you have put in then you'll know for next time.
  11. http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/size-radiator-need-car/ HI In the same position as yourself building a 2B. It seems many use the rad from a 1litre Polo and going by the calculations on the above link its about right. It helps to install at an angle / reclined to improve airflow contact with the cooling fins and if you can fit shrouds to channel air flow through the rad rather than letting air bypass it that will help too. A big heater for the cockpit doesn't go wrong either. Kevin
  12. Hi Guys So you know what it's like when you pick up someone else's half finished project... not everything is as it should be. I'm currently building up the front end of my 2B and to save some work bought the front wing supports from GBS to fit the original Array alloys with an ET15 offset. Now that I'm actually fitting the wheels the tyre rubs agains the wing support but only just. I suspect the tyre size is a little over ambitious at a 205/50 R15. What was originally intended for the 2B was it a 195/50 or 195 /45? A smaller tyre size seems the easiest solution and as what's currently on the rims is 20 years old I'd probably need to scrap them anyway. Any good advice is welcome Kevin
  13. RevKev

    Bike Carb trouble

    The pipe on top pf the carbs is a breather from the float chambers. Don't block it off or back pressure will stop the chamber from filling. If fuel was coming out that pipe you have a float that is sticking causing the float chamber to flood (and the engine too) and fuel overflow from the breather. These carbs are really very simple devices and work very well. Make sure you have the correct fuel jet size in them. For a 2 litre you are looking at a 1.5mm jet. Check DanST Engineering as they sell all the jets and have lots of info on fitting bike carbs to Pintos and other engines. I still use the original bike fuel pump on mine. I expect it to give up at some point but it still seems to keep up with fuel demand. Balancing the carbs really only checks that each cylinder has the same air flow into it so in theory each cylinder offers the same power output. If you have two cylinders running rich it is more likely because of the sticking float(s) If you have to change mixture settings on these bike carbs it is done by adjusting the needle setting on the sliders in the venturi. Actually adjusting the needle doesn't change the fuel as all you are doing is raising or lowering the start position of the slider increasing or decreasing the air flow. The needle always sits at rest at its lowest point because it is returned to that point by the spring in the vacuum chamber under the black top cap. The vacuum which operates the slider comes from the air flow through the carb itself. The rear of the slider is chamfered to create a low pressure area behind it sucking air out of the vacuum chamber so raising the needle. It can be worth checking the rubber diaphragms - they are very thin and even a pin hole can make a difference. A loss of vacuum however would make a cylinder run lean as the needle wont lift as far as it should or perhaps not at all. If your manifold has a vacuum connection is is likely to be from just one runner which is fine for the brake servo, but not so good for running your distributor vacuum advance. It pulses too much to give a smooth response. A vacuum advance would typically have been connected to an inlet manifold plenum chamber where the vacuum is more consistent across all four cylinders. I use a centrifugal (spring) advance distributor on my Pinto which requires no vacuum and Mikuni (Yahama R1) bike carbs with original bike fuel pump. Lastly I might say that these alloy inlet manifolds benefit from a chunky gasket like 1mm thick, again DanST Engineering can probably supply. Air leaks at the manifold cause all kinds of problems with mixture! Hope the above helps Kevin
  14. RevKev

    Cam swap

    Other possibility is a sticking thermostat. Cheap and simple to replace.
  • Create New...