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Valve guides - Pinto.


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I believe it is the valve seats not the valve guides, so unless you have machining use then I would say no.

 Engines made before 1989 may need modifying to run on unleaded fuel. The process involves the machining the old exhaust valve seats in the cylinder head out. New hardened inserts are then pressed into these pockets having an interference fit. It is also normal to retard the ignition timing.

Unless you are building a high performance engine then put good fuel in the tank and enjoy your driving the cost out weights the work involved and will last for many years before it needs attention.

Edited by maca
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Hi Mick,

Sorry I was getting a bit ahead of myself you can change Valve guides by pressing or tapping them out.

Then fit new guides in the same way, but you may have to cut the valve seat to re-align to the new guide.

Then lap in the valves in the normal way.

Have a look on you tube.

Unless they are very worn and the engine is burning lots of oil then leave them or fit new valve seals.

Regards Martin

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According to Burtons, the head needs machining to fit new guides. To be honest any good machining shop will be able to do it. You could even buy your own guides & get them to fit them.

But make sure they are worn enough to justify it. I dont know of any pintos that have needed to be done. Usually replacing the oil seals will stop any smoking. What symptoms has the engine got to make you believe they need replacing??


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Hi everyone. The symptoms are that I get some smoke when the engine has been at tickover and I then increase revs or blip the throttle. I had the head off during the summer to do some gas flowing (not porting). No1 exhaust valve had a soft black buildup of about 3mm covering the top of the valve seat that went right up to where the stem enters the valve guide. All the other valves were fine. I could remove the buildup with a scraper so as I said it was quite soft and I finished off with fine wet and dry. When reassembling I fitted new oil seals to all the valve stems and I purchased them from Burton Power so they should be good quality. To be honest the amount of smoke doesn't bother me But I am concerned about the MOT if I get a fussy Tester. I will know by the end of this month.

I'm pretty sure the engine has not been converted to run on unleaded but the person who built the car ran it on unleaded and did about 3000 miles. I add a lead replacement additive which also has a ethanol stabiliser. To make it really confusing the engine number says  it was produced Jan 1989 which is exactely the month Ford changed over to unleaded. So, it could be the last of the leaded or the first of the unleaded. My reason for thinking it's leaded is when I lapped the valves in the seats cleaned up with little effort. Had they been suitable for unleaded I would have expected them to be much harder.

Thanks for the feedback so far. Cheers. Mick.

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