Brake Bleeding Order

[Dave R]

whats the correct order for bleeding the brakes ?

i have misplaced the haynes manual since i tidied up :gdit:

[Big Jim]

I've always done it, nearest to master cylinder first etc. works for me!

[Dave R]

ta

[Peter Bell]

Dave I always just bleed the longest run first then work towards the shortest.

Peter

Oops just the oposite to JIm!

[Dave R]

dunno if i still have air in them or not.....

pedal feels v good till i start the engine and the servo helps

then the pedal does drop a bit, though dont feel spongy

front calipers are on the right way round... seems to stop ok, but what will sva man say?

have just put nearly 1l of fluid through them with a pressure bleeder, so they have 2 chances!

[Guest mark kingston]

i was taught that if a servo was fitted to bleed all the brakes a s normal then start the engine so the servo is working for you and to go back round them all and rebleed them with the engine/servo working.

of course you need to use the pedal pushing method for this final bleed.

regards

mark Kingston

[chris n]

I always start a complete system bled with the N/S front caliper and then work clockwise around the brake system

[Guest chris brown]

Dave I always just bleed the longest run first then work towards the shortest.

I suspect you are correct peter and Jim is wrong (is this a first) as that is the way it is taught in collage.

 

As for the servo taking the pedal down further that is what should happen in fact the tester will switch off the engine and operate the brakes several times to get rid of the vacuum in the servo. He will then start the car with his foot on the brake pedal and feel for the servo to operate. This test is also part of the MOT.

[Guest rizla]

i cant believe it im gonna agee with chris furthest from the master cylinder first then work you way to the nearest

 

this is how i was taught at college,and have always adhered to it with no problems

[Guest chris brown]

Andy agrees with me now that is a first.

[Guest Daren.F]

I found that using the pressure bleeder jobbie was easy, but to rid the system of the last bit of spongy pedal, I had to revert back to pumping the pedal.

This was after a master cylinder change and I think the air was in the master cylinder, I suspect pumping the pedal whilst the presure bleeder was conected may have done the job.

 

Chris and rizla are wrong!

Turn the pump off and start on a down stairs radiator first

[Guest rizla]

[Guest Battery Bill]

Chris

collage - A picture or design created by adhering such basically flat elements as newspaper

 

You sure you were at the right place when you did your "Motor" apprentiship

 

PS Rizla is right imho

[Mitch]

You're right Billy, Rizla and Chris either went to school together, or Rizla just copied Chris's answer.

 

Mitch

[Big Jim]

furthest from the master cylinder first then work you way to the nearest

 

this is how i was taught at college,and have always adhered to it with no problems

 

Doing it this way you risk the chance of "pulling" air in for the lines that haven't been bled. Going from the nearest to the mastercylinder first you know that everything between the one you're doing is good, with no posiblity of drawing air back.

But whatever works for you!

 

I've never had problems beeding brakes, but I've always done it by pedal pressing, none of those fancy pressure pumps.

I always use a "constant loss" system with the fluid too, in other words, I never re-use brake fluid.