Painting Gellcoat Air Scoop

[Guest Stuart Ainslie]

MaxPower magazine anyone ? ?

[Guest alan rowe]

how big is it Rizzy

[Guest megablade]

i aim to seal the air filter so it only gets its air through the scoop

I'm not sure you'll get enough air in.

 

On the bike they use this system with an enclosed airbox, but (those of us who have built our own will know ) when you remove this air box and fit a normal air filter you have to rejet the carbs to stop them running too lean. It was so bad on the blade, that it would not rev above 5500

 

Just be carefull you don't knacker it completely :boohoo:

[Bob Tucker]

Andy,

back to the gelcoat.....

make sure you use an etch primer first, then an undercoat, then a couple coats of your chosen topcoat. Make sure they are ALL compatible with each other.

Flat each coat in turn with 800 to 1000 grit wet & dry, used wet with a little washing up liquid........ASK MUM-IN-LAW WHERE SHE KEEPS IT !!!

 

Best of luck, Bob

[Longboarder]

Most problems with paint adhesion are caused by contamination. Prep for the bulge should start with cleaning with soap and water, rinse and then a prepaint type cleaner to remove release agent.

Then wet and dry 400 used wet with clean water. Washing up liquid is just another contaminant.

Then leave to dry in the airing cupboard for 24 hours. Water is another contaminant when painting glass fibre.

Use prepaint cleaner between each process on good quality paper towel and especialy before and after sanding and discard towel after each use.

Then etch, prime, top coat.

 

Nigel

[Guest alan rowe]

this all sounds very complicated and time consuming - why not get your local specialist paint shop to do it for you Riz

[ibrooks]

You also have a problem that's specific to fibre-glass. The solvents in the resin will still be evaporating for a good few months on something that sort of size and they will effectively lift the paint off unless it's porous to allow them through. Personally I'd leave it for 6 months and then paint it.

 

Etch primer is for metals as it's an acid base. The equivalent for plastics is a solvent base it does the same job and on the same principle but it's not generally known as etch primer - Plasticote's plastc primer is quite good.

 

Regarding getting a good finish - preparation preparation preparation interspersed with cleaning and drying and followed by more of the same. Without a proper oven to accelerate drying times then it's going to take ages to do it properly (the one in the kitchen is not suitable). The airing cupboard is a good idea if it's dust free (and assuming you don't have a combi-boiler). There's no reason to use anything as agressive as 400 on it and you'll just leave scratches to sort out later. Wash it with panel wipe to remove any grease before you even start with abrasives or you run the risk of pushing any surface contaminants into the piece. Use a scuff pad rather than paper as that thing is all curves so it'll be easier. All you're looking to do is dull the gloss finish as, on plastic, the solvent primer will give the real key. Use the scuff pad wet with plenty of water. Wash the scoop off with clean water and let it dry (completely). Clean with something like panel-wipe and let it dry (completely). Wash your hands at each step so that you aren't touching it with greasy fingers (you'd be amazed at how much grease you carry on your skin even if you have a dry complexion). Now apply several coats of the primer - lots of light even coats with the recomended flash off period between them. Let it dry for a long time - several days minimum but a week is better. Go again with a scuff pad (a well washed but pre-used one will give a smoother finish but take longer to remove material) use your common sense here, we're trying to remove any high/rough spots but not go all the way through the coating that's been applied. As before wash and panel-wipe when finished. Now - colour. Same as the primer basically the smoother the surface it's applied to the shinier it will be and a gloss finish will show any imperfections better than anything so this is where you'll see any marks you've left. Lacquer is again the same process and a personal preference, solid colours will normally polish to a shine just dandy but metallics need to lacquer to protect the particles from becoming dull. Any polishing you do is removing material so don't go daft with a buffer and put lots of paint on to give you lots of scope to remove material without going through.

 

If you think it takes long time to read wait until you're doing it. Lots of patience.

 

Iain

[Guest docter fox]

after all this talk and seeing the time it could take, I'd either leave it off for now or just give it a few coats of plasticoat and give it a few more when it starts to peel off

[Guest rizla]

i think it might stay yellow

[Guest micky bigthumbs]

I'd sell it on Ebay after reading that lot

(sorry Iain )

[Guest alan rowe]

yes keep it yellow or swop it for a black one as I said before Riz

[Guest rizla]

well,fitting starts today so we will see what it looks like in yellow

[Guest docter fox]

good luck with the fitting

 

remember to take pics of the whole as well as the scoop

[Guest rizla]

will do

[Guest rizla]

right,pics of it on