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Posts posted by blue
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Hi cb750 I take it looking at your pics that your front arms like mine are just held by the 2mm bent plate ????
Or is there something inside .
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Hi yes my front looks exactly like yours but I don't have the angle bits on the top ??
I'm having a real hard time putting pics up it keeps saying file too big ??
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hi thanks for your replys
ive stripped the front down and found the bolt more or less stuck solid in the arm so at least ive found the problen
im still amazed that the rfont arm is only sitting in a bent bit of 2mm stainless steel
hi as regards to body roll on 80lb shocks its very minimal but thats only on back lane blasts have not taken it to limits on track yet
also has anyone come across a very big (noisy) bang from the rear of the car if going over a pot hole !!
ive read the posts on the bottom of the car (subframe ) hitting so have checked this ( put talc power over bolt heads etc ) and nothing was rubbed off after a drive ??
and it only happens fron near side never offside !!
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Hi no his not running or needing an eddis. The omex has spark drivers built in
Yes the crank sensor is plugged in and working but the car cranks with the same symptoms as if you turn an old style dizzy to far as in it will crank 2/3 turns then cough back with quite some force
The car starts it runs for maybe a second or two if started with full throttle .
It's deff got an air leak from the manifold cos it's so poorly machined the flat edge we checked it with actually rocked so as a temp measure we applied silicone to fill the gaps !! However the air leak is an easy fix what we can't seem to get round is the advance spark problem causing the engine to lock/stall on cranking !!
So does anyone have a good known base map for a 2.0 zetec they can e mail flameredturbo so we know we have a starting point or a way or setting to retard the advance on an omex 600.
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Guys I know this has been spoken about lots of times and I have the usual chassis stress/cracking places on the front that seem so widely known about but what concerns me if it's cracking where I CAN see it where is it cracking where I CANT !!!!
Has anyone come across any other places where the mono splits??
I can easily weld some plates /strengthen the chassis if I know where to look ?
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Hi tracking is as near to dead straight as you can. 0 deg toe in /out
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I'm east London but with a little notice I'd be up for a Kent drive out.
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On suspension set-ups you never fit a rear roll bar if no front fitted !!
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Glad to help. That's what this clubs here for !!!
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Ok having read your other post I think it's time to go basics !!
Do you have a standard carb and manifold to try.
Also have you took the tops off the carbs and checked that the needle still has the circlip on it cos your post sounds like your running lean on one cylinder hence the AFR on your wide band has gone from 12s to 14.
You say the slides are all moving but not that the needle is moving with it
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Are you using the original 2.0 flywheel. Cos I'm using the starter from a 1.8 cvh and it works like a dream
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Ok what engine you running. Pinto / zetec ?? Also what way are your hoses routed ??
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Hi in people's option what's a better tyre the yoko parada or the AD08R
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It's worth calling GBS as they still do lots of bits for the Robinhood I'd be very surprised if they don't already make one for it !!
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Hi has anyone had a half roof made and if so by who and how much.
I've tried soft bits for kits but they only make ones for zero not 2b and s7 models
Pics would be nice too !!
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Just a point dan but I have the software and leads to re do weber alpha. !
I know webers chief developer really well !
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hi im running GBS plenum standard injectors and standard GBS exhaust and GT manifold on weber alpha system in my S7 and it made 178bhp on webers own rolling road
are you using the fuel reg on your set up cos GBS say not to but my car runs miles better with it connected
40bhp at flywheel is quite a lot to be down !!
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Hi your right on the early days with the jiggle pin but hat was old pintos etc modern thermos dont have them
also its not a raceline rail his using its a retroford item which does have a bypass but looks like in pic its not being used !!
and your 100% right on water pump rotation !!!
and your pic is 100% spot on for what his got .
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ok please talk me through this !!
if i jack up the front of the car where am i pushing or pulling as i will 100% check this tomorrow
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yes the thermo fits with the spring part inside the housing that you bolt to the back of the engine
All you should see when you take off the waterail is the front of the thermo and a black rubber sealing ring that sits inside the waterail
if you need any more help or details pls ask
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Also last but not least on the opposite end /side of the bit that bolts to the head does it have a pipe sticking out of it with a capped off end (maybe a bolt screwed in ) cos that's the bypass and should be plumbed into heater if fitted or into bottom rad hose
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Also don't drill the thermo as even a couple of hole 3mm in size will cause it to run to cold 70-80c when on a fast run eg motorway as the stat can't do it job properly. Zetecs like and need 95-110c temps unlike old pintos etc
I run exactly the same water rail and all I've done is put an expan bottle from rad cap and it now sits at 95c all day everyday
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Hi your thermo is the wrong way around. !! The spring goes inside the large part
Cracking S7
in Maintenance & Modifications
Posted
Update !! We'll all front was stripped and the front suspension was all greased etc. from what I can see the builder put it together thinking that the nylon bushes were enough for the suspension to pivot on and assembled it with no grease ????? He also tightened the pivot bar so tight that even when the shock was removed the arm still needed a little encouragement to move up and down (I had to use a breaker bar to undo nut on pivot) so all redone and a 3mm plate temp put on till I find or am happy with a better way