cb750

GBS told me their machine for putting louvres in was U/S when I asked

Great, Thanks Jez

Are the 2 large blade connections on the sierra alternator commoned together inside the alternator, I.e are both output terminals? I can't check as my one meter has just gone U/S and the other needs charging! What's the output amps of the standard alternator?

Yes, saw that! Wish we had that in our summer!

Got mine from massiveattack007 on ebay. Individual sizes though, not multipack. Good price at the time.

Pity the video people didn't try a non-turbo engine. I think the turbo and turbo intercooler may have had an effect on the results they got as you are getting a denser charge anyway with a turbo. Carbs need any help they can get!

Congratulations to you both.

All the early speedos I found are mechanical and normally take their input from the gearbox

My speedo sensor (smiths) picks up the heads of the diff bolts as they pass it. It doesn't need magnets to work but some sensors do need to use magnets. You can buy an electronic speedo sensor adaptor for the type 9 from Burton Power for £15 but then need the Ford speedo sensor which they sell for £40. I had both but my new gearbox didn't have any speedo drive gear on the mainshaft so couldn't use them!!

Well done! My wife's a bit worried about our non-servo on our car, I don't think I will let her read your comment about your brakes!

Used these on an old freelander that we had. Much improved lighting with a clearer beam pattern

Glad you are sorted. I found CBS customer service to be great when I had a problem as well.

Rob

Great, keep up the good work!

Went over to Jubilee Spares today. Like going back in time, just like the scrapyards I remember! Bought a Focus fuel cut off switch, the plug for it and also a plug for my brake reservoir switch, all for £5. Now to get it positioned and wired up.

Spal are excellent, I think Radtec use them on their competition rads

If the previous owner hasn't managed to tighten the bolt very much try using a hammer and punch or small chisel on the corner of the ears on the bolt, you may be able to jar it free.

Or drill the bolt head off, remove the manifold and hope there's enough stud left to grip to remove that!

Or Dremel a slot in the bolt head and use an impact screwdriver to try to remove it

Thanks for the link. I now realise Sierra ones are rare so will use your suggestion. Jubilee is not too far away so will pop over and see if they have a plug for it as well and can show me the orientation for it in a car.

My wife says I'm a tight OAP as well so I will try that if I can find a Sierra switch.

Rob

I am nearly ready to wire the fuel pump up and want to fit a safety cut off circuit. I was thinking of using the oil light circuit but this would mean adding a relay and bypass switch? Alternatively I was also thinking of using an inertia switch from a production car. Has anyone done this and what have you used (if it's an inertia switch, how did you mount it?)

Rob

I have sent you a PM.

Rob

Check the welds where the front framework is welded to the monocoque sides. Mine looked OK but when I put a light behind them in a dark garage I could see that they were cracked! Had fillets added, welds ground back and rewelded.

According to info that I have seen, its an ignition condenser (also known as an ignition module) so you shouldn't need it.

I used a length of industrial brush seal screwed to the bottom of my up and over door. It's the type that's fitted to roller shutter doors but works great on my door. It takes out any unevenness in the floor.

Thanks, I might have to do that if nothing comes up!

Has anyone got a pinto thermostat housing in good condition they don't want and going cheap! I need one that will polish up, mine is badly corroded. Please PM me with a price if you have one. Mine is the late short version with the bleed take off but the early long type should fit as well

Thanks Rob