Snapperpaul

Petemat, i make you right did some searching and found this If silicone is introduced into an older brake system, the silicone will latch unto the sludge generated by gradual component deterioration and create a gelatin like goop which will attract more crud and eventually plug up metering orifices or cause pistons to stick. If you have already changed to DOT 5, don't compound your initial mistake and change back. Silicone is very tenacious stuff and you will never get it all out of your system. Just change the fluid regularly. For those who race using silicone fluid, I recommend that you crack the bleed screws before each racing session to insure that there is no water in the calipers. www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.shtml

I have just finished plumbing in the brakes, not the neatest job in the world but should work and be accessable. I have some old but still sealed brake fluid in the workshop and want to use this to do the initial system fill and bleed, when this is done and i have fixed any leaks and bled the system, i would like to do the final bleed with silicone fluid. Can i bleed out the old fluid with silicone without affecting the the now new silicone fluid?

900Kg is a lot of weight what are you building?

Correct. I thought the other 3 in the 4 speed were a little closer, not such a big leap from 1st to 2nd. What we need or should i say i think I need is a lower diff ratio with a higher 1st in a close ratio set with 5th around 0.97 I have used the amendagear spread sheet and have not come up with a solution yet. Its all down to not being able to push through the air and hit peak revs. The higher the engine revs the bigger the problem.

A sort of conclusion i have come to ,is that the 5 speed box and a Robin Hood with its bad aerodynamics are not the best, Richard prefered the 4 speed box. With the top speed at any where between 105 and 120, unless you have a lot of torque, it seems to be a bit of a juggling match between revs and ratios. With 15 inch wheels to try and fill the arches you are always going to run out of torque befor you run out of revs. Close ratio type 9 from Burton's/Quafe is OH so much dosh. So is 110 top end the best we will get ( Track days of course) and will we have to suffer the low first gear for ever?

Will it work with "miserable next Tory leader"

RAW is the the raw unprocessed file from the camera chip to the memory chip. the image as the lens and the chip sees it. any other file type Jpeg being the most popular has some processing ( interpretation) and compression ( the jpeg process throws out bits of image information to make the file size smaller). If you shoot in jpeg evry time you do something to the image in a program such as Photoshop you re-jpeg it therefor compressing the already compressed image. For high quality and /or large finished images, shoot RAW, burn to CD and work on a copy that way you can always come back to the original.

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Don't forget to set your cameras to the highest resolution and use RAW if you have it. Also a Robin Hood owners club tax disc holder in the window of the aircraft

The fit of the rear wheels looks very good, how did you fill the arches and get it that low without grounding?

I used Hammersh*te on the calipers after cleaning back to shiny but lightly keyed metal left to dry for prescribed time added second coat and put to one side. Pick them up a few weeks later and as i fitted them the paint fell off exept in the really awkward places to get to. Cleaned it back again, primed it + 2 coats of Halfrauds caliper silver still good after bashing it for months

i make it 81mph @6500 with 195/50/15 3.92 diff type 9 box does anyone know if the ratios in a MT75 are different? Dr Fox i have mailed you a diff, box, wheel, speed calculator

Tie rods please. Will mail you with my details Paul.

Harry i am upto rolling shell stage with a series 3 i picked up last November. I have a full set of 3 VHS tapes about 7 hours of video. It will get you started and clear the lounge of all other members of the household. The worst camera work you will ever see and the audio is suplimented with workshop drilling and crashing interspersed with the dog barking. I also have a huge file of build and modification info that i can burn to disc for you. Just want some blank tapes in return so i can copy them again for other needy members. Mail me your address and i will duplicate a set at work and post them of this week. Paul

I have Tom Tom 3 on my PDA iPaq 2200 the Tom Tom is great, only thing i would like is the full post code model. Tried Navman at work and found it did not give enough info, told you the next direction change without any distance to it and did not zoom in at the direction change point. Tom Tom on a PDA for me, just make sure the PDA has enough memory for the programms you have on it. Mine used to crash and lock up which meant a hard reset with lost info.

Found him ( Mark) has a series 1 S7, had a quick chat on my way past and have emailed the club site. He bought it about 2 years ago and has spent quite a bit on new parts, i have advised him to join the club and save a bit of money by posting in the wanted section first. Hope to see him on this site soon.

I think we should start quoting all up weight with driver when we talk about power to weight ratios. Might find that Slim Fast is a cheaper and more effective performance enhancer than expensive engine mods

Dave R, just a point. Air compresses, fluids of any type does not compress. Pressure is the force felt by the things it presses against. Get air in your brake pipes the air compresses No brakes

Could'nt possibly post on this forum what i am currantly calling mine. However most of the parts begin with F'ing. Currently i am spending more on drill bits than nuts and bolts. I seem to spend a lot of time correcting and changing things for the SVA even though i carry a PDA with the SVA regs on it to while away the evenings in far off hotels.

Bigger

Posted for Robin.

I agree with Andy, it's a monocoque and just cutting an access hatch still won't help if you have got to pull off an oil seal and push on a new one. Once you have removed the electrtics and plumbing the engine and gearbox come out in one, have a mate help.

Pics need to be very small Jpeg with lots of compression and under 50Kb if you send me one ill size it for you. Ther is a sizing program on this site that you can have a go at. Use the test area to have a play.

If its all registered your OK so no SVA (lucky you). sierra guages get them from the scrappy, dead cheap. if you bought the fuel guage new, email the company with your problem ( tell them as much as you can about the sender) they may have a solution