alanrichey

Sorry, this is now confusing the hell out of me. I thought I understood the physics behind this but apparently not I need to watch someone actually doing it before I feel confident to do it myself.

I'm going to mount it on a board with all the relays, all carefully labelled

Afraid I don't have a 60mm spanner. I was hoping I wouldn't need it, I obviously do. Although surely the shock is already at full length at the point where the tyre/wishbone starts to come off the floor ? Otherwise it would keep extending.

Had my first try this morning but eventually gave up. I can see the logic that if you jack up the chassis that at the point where the tyre leaves the ground the spring is just at it's maximum extension before it starts to lift the wishbone, and it should, in theory, be easy to remove the bottom bolts. But after multiple attempts with the bolts loosened I just couldn't find the 'sweet spot' and while I could have forcibly removed the bolts the last thing I wanted to do was take off the shock/spring and not be able to get it back on again. That way I wouldn't make the Meet next weekend So I think I will wait until a professional shows me how to do it.

Many thanks to bullfist. First fuse I pulled from the 'official' 4 x fusebox was blown. Replaced and I now have a horn and headlights. Although I also learned not to change a fuse on a 'live' circuit, first attempt resulted in a flash and another blown fuse. Taking off the battery -ve terminal and then putting the fuse in did the trick. I LOVE the way this is such a learning experience Now bought a heavy-duty 10-way fusebox off E-Bay and will gradually switch to that.

Later: Had a good look around the suspension and now I understand everything that has been said, although a 60mm spanner might be a challenge. Thanks again, I would be lost without this forum.

Thanks for all the advice. I think I will just move it in one hole first and see what the effect is. If that increases the ride height enough I can leave it at that. Otherwise I will be bending a few ears at the Annual Meet

Actually I have just found that a pair of coil spring compressors are very cheap on e-bay so might as well play safe and get a set for the day when I change to Gaz shocks Is it simply a matter of putting the compressors in and then jacking the car up then undoing the bottom bolt and moving the mounting ? Or do I still have to undo the spring platform ? Actually not exactly sure what you mean by that, never tried this before. Can you tell me in words of one syllable ?

I want to try and improve the ground clearance of the sump on my Superspec by moving the bottom mounting of the shocks to the hole nearest the chassis Do I need to use a spring compressor or will jacking up the chassis, allowing the wheel/wishbone to droop, be sufficient to allow the bottom mounting to be disconnected and moved. Sorry if this is a dumb question but I would prefer not to find out by trying it and then being unable to reassemble it

Enjoyed my first ever track day immensely, although I'm glad Dan didn't post the timed runs results . Although at least I wasn't last and didn't spin out anywhere Also glad to finish the day with my Superspec in one piece, except for the odd leak (actually a hat-trick, Oil, Petrol and Water ). I learnt a lot from it, thanks to all involved.

Yes, that turned out to be perfect. Also followed the advice at http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=26736&st=0&p=205151&fromsearch=1entry205151 and built a bracket instead of mounting the eye direct to the pedal, to avoid stresses. Then threaded the cable through a short length of copper tube at the bell housing end to make the adjustment easier. Great success, clutch now much lighter and smoother.

Not been there before, arrival instructions ?

Thanks for that, it makes good sense. Must admit I haven't had the chance to check the 4-fuse box yet, difficult to get at unless you are a contortionist

It was working fine until I fiddled about with the fuse box, so I am assuming the problem lies there. In fact I have just noticed the headlights aren't working either. Think it is time to put a proper heavy-duty fuse box in.

Sorry, should have mentioned I have the same wiring loom diagram and as you say it doesn't help. Just shows you what to plug in, and not a wiring diagram by any means. In fact now I look closer at the bulkhead I see there is the 'official' 4-fuse box and a seperate 6 in-line fuse box. So I actually have 10 fuses. The main reason I need to figure this out is that the horn has stopped working and I assume that has a fuse in the circuit somewhere (I tried swapping the relay and that didn't help). I thought I might as well figure out the others while I was at it. I did start pulling the fuses to check for continuity, but when I pulled the first one the end of the fusebox fell apart (it seems very fragile). I managed to press it back together but it decided it was safer not to continue. I think I will just have to run some continuity tests to try and figure it out. Worse case scenario will be to build a new horn wiring circuit in parallel :-)

I did ask him and he said he had no idea either

To save me having to work it out by trial and error, does anyone happen to know what the 6 fuses on the standard in-line fuse box protect ? They are: 20-10-10-10-20-10 Cheers Al

Have a Superspec with Rover T Engine: Fitted with 420 Alloy sump. Have a slight leak in my present sump due to regular grounding, probably repairable when I drop it over the winter, but would prefer a new one. Had a look on E-Bay but the only one doesn't look right to me (Item: 271176698364) If anyone knows where i could get one I would be grateful Al

Nice to meet a few of you and put names to faces. Congrats on the engine change, when I saw you all at 13:30 I wouldn't have put money on it getting completed Hope to touch base with a few more at the next meet Cheers

Just an update for any other SuperSpec owners looking for a Clutch cable. The Volvo 340 QCC 1240 Cable (E-Bay Item, 150523650345) was almost right except it had a nipple at the pedal end rather than an 'eye'. But by getting this Citroen Xantia connector (E-Bay Item 221259839085) you can adapt the nipple to a perfect connector. However, before using it I have ordered a Fiat one (E-Bay Item 160968878661) which the seller assures me has an eye and not a nipple. I'll report back when it arrives. Al

OK, although I assumed the stand was inside the hall for the engine change ? Or are there two ?. (Sorry, first timer so don't know the layout)

Is there a dedicated rhocar area in the kit car park to head for, or we just park amywhere ?

Thanks Steve, interesting stuff. If I find the right cable I will probably do the same.

OK, that explains everything. I will have to try and find a QCC1303 with an eye end. Thanks for clearing that up.

Still researching. This looks like the adaptor I need. Pity it is plastic. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221259839085?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D221259839085%26_rdc%3D1