alanrichey

Have a Superspec with Rover T Engine: Fitted with 420 Alloy sump. Have a slight leak in my present sump due to regular grounding, probably repairable when I drop it over the winter, but would prefer a new one. Had a look on E-Bay but the only one doesn't look right to me (Item: 271176698364) If anyone knows where i could get one I would be grateful Al

Nice to meet a few of you and put names to faces. Congrats on the engine change, when I saw you all at 13:30 I wouldn't have put money on it getting completed Hope to touch base with a few more at the next meet Cheers

Just an update for any other SuperSpec owners looking for a Clutch cable. The Volvo 340 QCC 1240 Cable (E-Bay Item, 150523650345) was almost right except it had a nipple at the pedal end rather than an 'eye'. But by getting this Citroen Xantia connector (E-Bay Item 221259839085) you can adapt the nipple to a perfect connector. However, before using it I have ordered a Fiat one (E-Bay Item 160968878661) which the seller assures me has an eye and not a nipple. I'll report back when it arrives. Al

OK, although I assumed the stand was inside the hall for the engine change ? Or are there two ?. (Sorry, first timer so don't know the layout)

Is there a dedicated rhocar area in the kit car park to head for, or we just park amywhere ?

Thanks Steve, interesting stuff. If I find the right cable I will probably do the same.

OK, that explains everything. I will have to try and find a QCC1303 with an eye end. Thanks for clearing that up.

Still researching. This looks like the adaptor I need. Pity it is plastic. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221259839085?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D221259839085%26_rdc%3D1

Actually this one looks a better bet. An eye end and a smaller bush. I'll have to ask what the length is ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-QH-CLUTCH-CABLE-QCC1204-FORD-TRANSIT-LHD-80-100-120-130-160-190-100L-78-86-/390636221859?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5af3bbb5a3

Yes the pedal end looks fine, but it is at least 700mm too short and I can't see enough of the engine end to see if it will fit. The QCC 1303 (EBay Item 321169257790) looks as though it has a smaller bush at the engine end, but still come with a nipple. I don't really want to keep buying clutch cables on the chance they might fit :-) I guess need to get off my backside and go to a proper parts distributor :-)

OK, got a QCC 1240 clutch cable off EBay but unfortunately it isn't going to be the quick fix I hoped. The length is fine, but the bush at the clutch end is larger than the hole in the bell housing so it is not going to be a nice fit. I might be able to live with that but the other problem is that the pedal end has a nipple (as does the QCC 1303 from what I can see) whereas the exisiting cable has an eye at the end so it is simply attached to the clutch pedal with a bolt. I assume there should have been some sort of connector that takes the cable/nipple and can be bolted onto the clutch pedal and the previous owner removed it when he replaced the cable with his 'bodged' version. Can't see anything on E-Bay, but I guess it must be a pretty standard piece of kit ? Anyone any ideas ? And I can see what Peter means about the mislignment between the release arm and the hole in the bell housing, but I think extending the release arm is well beyond my ability Have to live with it and just keep checking it.

Don't think so, it definately has bolts on both sides. Haven't taken them out yet to check.

I have a fair bit if play in the bottom CV joint on the steering column despite tightening both bolts. So I suspect the CV joint will need changing before the next MOT. Does anyone know if it is a generic part or a special-to-type ? Do I just need to measure the width of the column ? Thanks Al Later: Is this it ? http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?cat=15&product=8972&catsub=0

I need one of these as well. Can I get it off the Burton Power website ?

Sounds good

First timer for this, What do people recommend as far as insurance is concerned ? Extension to existing policy or standalone one-day cover ? (I'm with Adrian Flux at the moment)

Great, thanks

Oh, Conflicting views :-) How about these: VOLVO 340 1.4 CLUTCH CABLE 82/91 QCC1240 NOS QH CLUTCH CABLE QCC1337 FORD GRANADA,SCORPIO,SIERRA,SAPPHIRE 2.0i DOHC

Could anyone tell me what clutch cable to ask for as a replacement for the one on my SuperSpec (Rover 'T' Series engine with Ford M75 Gearbox, no idea which clutch, Rover or Ford ?). The previous owner used a handbrake cable as an emergency replacement when the clutch cable broke and I would like to fit the proper item.

Being a bit dense here, but how do I access the Members Benefit Section ? Can't see a link anywhere. Later: Ignore this, just found it. Didn't realise it was in the Forums Listings.

Thanks, all makes sense. Also, should have checked Wikipedia before asking the question "....Some warning indicator circuits are equipped with a resistor in parallel with the lamp that permit excitation current to flow if the warning lamp burns out....".

Thanks, sounds good. I'll post the result

Ah, I missed that as well :-) So I did mention an LED. Sorry. Sorry, are you saying I need another 100 Ohm resistor in parallel with my additional filament bulb ? Surely adding another bulb is going to increase the current anyway making the alternator even more excited :-)

OK, my apologies, I don't seem to have explained myself very well as none of the answers relate to my problem and I didn't actually mention LED. Let me try again. The present system appears to be (The Robin Hood Wiring Diagram only gives colours of wires, not functionality so it's a bit of a guess),: 1. A wire from the alternator arrives at the Blue Connector plug to the back of the instrument cluster. I can access this wire under the dash. 2. When I examine the back of the cluster (not the one on the car, I have a spare one), I can see that printed circuit connection from the appropriate connector goes through a diode to one side of the the Alternator Warning Light (I almost certain it's a filament bulb. Were LEDs actually in use when the SuperSpec was sold ?) and the other side of the warning light is tied to 12V (ignition live). In addition, there is a 100 Ohm resistor on the circuit board in parallel with the lamp. Now I do NOT intend to take the cluster off and try and solder direct to the circuit board, that comes under the 'too much hassle' heading. Now, these lamps are tiny, so I can understand the logic of them adding an extra resistor to ensure a large enough current flow to excite the alternator. So all I am really asking is can I now put another lamp, probably filament, between the alternator output and 12V (ignition switched), without any extra components and without disturbing the existing setup ? or will this somehow screw up the charging/warniing system. ? Hope that makes more sense. Al

OK, makes sense. But I wasn't intending on removing the original one in the cluster, just augmenting it. So what if I simply put my new lamp in parallel with the original, so that they both light up and the 100 Ohm resistor keeps the current high enough to excite the alternator. Will that do any harm ?