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Posts posted by Sparepart
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Looks like they are screwed into a piece of threaded tube that crudely welded to the frame. There is corosion around the tube base and it looks like moisture could get in there. So most likely the end of the thread at the base of the tube has rusted and expanded so that now it has to cut a thread through the rust as it unscrewed. I would give both ends a dose of wd40 and then slowly increase the amount unscrewed by turning till it stops then screwing back in a bit, then out a bit more, then in again etc until a thread is cut thruough the rusty bit.
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Also you might try starting and running the engine with the alternator disconnected.
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Maybe you have checked out the following thread there is a long list of things to look at and a final resolution of a problem very much like yours.
https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/126981-air-con-clutch-not-engaging-pressure-relay-okay/
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I found this topic very interesting, so did a bit of digging and soon found the reason. When the same coil is used to generate the two sparks the plugs are wired in series with the secondary coil between the two plugs. The current flow for the spark starts in the engine block, travels from the outer part of one plug to the central electrode, then through the secondary winding to the central electrode of the other plug and back to the block via the outer part of the plug. This difference in electron flow through each plug means that the erosion behaviour in each is different, one plug has +ve central electrode other has -ve central electrode, so the central electrode metal alloy is different. The diagram below makes it all clear.
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In the Sierra donor car that I used, the ignition system had two things not mentioned so far in this thread. I think both were to try and prevent noise on the AM/FM radio and also protect the early form of electronic ignition. The first was a galvanised steel shroud fitted tightly around the top of the distributor, where the rotor arm whizzes around, the shroud had/has a very visible earth strap to the main body of the distributor. This is a ford part, but it's somewhere in one of my bits piles, and I can't find any references to it on the web, I'll try and find it. I attach a photo of one from a different distributor so you can see what I mean. Anyway I assume that this shroud helps remove some of the EMI associated with the small sparks that jump the gap between the rotor arm and the pick up pegs in the cap. I would think that this gap has to be significant to allow for a worn distributor shaft. The second device is not for EMI, it serves to remove voltage spikes in the loom caused by the primary winding of the ignition coil. This takes the form of a capacitor connected between the +ve connection on the coil and earth. The Ford part number on mine is 71HM-12A 019-A2A it is rated at 2.2 micro farad 110v.
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I have a cunning plan. Would you go along with the idea of concentrating on each of the bits of kit in turn and in isolation?. The aim would be to deduce what each device is capable of, what function each of the connectors serves, and whether or not each device is working correctly. Then armed with this knowledge we should be able to work out a wiring diagram to achieve what you want to do, within the limits of the devices of course. This would mean you doing all sorts of tests using a multi-meter and reporting the results, which may in turn suggest further tests. I don't know how "electrics" savvy you are, so you might have to put up with what might seem patronizing questions occasionally. If you'd like to give it a go, then the first question is simple, will you list all the devices that you believe are involved in this project, I mean everything that has wires going to it or connectors on, for example "2 actuators, 1 push button, 1 key fob", don't include anything that you have added, as they might be red herrings. Oh and yes I assume you have a multi-meter, capable of measuring DC voltage in the 0-20V range and resistance in the 0-2K ohm range, if it also has an audible continuity function so much the better.
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First off, like Nelmo says we don't see many questions like this. However there's no harm in asking the questions. If possible do you have any details regarding the manufacturer and model of the bits, any clues like part numbers or names on the bits ?... I sort of assume you do since you say that you have been watching "everything on line" ... so any links to what you have watched?. One thing I notice on one of the hand crafted circuit diagram is that the actuaters appear to have one lead connected to earth. I think you will find that the two wires to the actuator are meant to be used as reverse polarity inputs. That is to say current through in one direction will lock and then reverse direction for unlock. So in the diagram showing a lead to earth the actuators are only going to operate to lock or unlock but not both, and judging by the written comment it looks like they only unlock.
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I am assuming that the pictures are looking down on the header tank of the radiator ?, personally I hve not seen one like this before. Anyway, if it is the header tank then you have noticed the small outlet/inlet on the RHS. If there is no filler with pressure cap on the unseen part of the header, then this small pipe is probably where a seperate header tank is connected. It would be somewhere in the engine bay mounted higher than the higest point of the engine water jacket. It's probably plastic and has a pressure cap.
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I have a suggestion. Find the engine code of youre blacktop and then search again for info using the code. You might even find some information by searching the magnificent archives of this site. For example, your next question is "Where do I find the engine code?" and guess what, we already have a thread here about this:-
https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/32675-zetec-blacktop-engine-number/
Then you might pick up info on the web such as:-
I don't know, but perhaps some spare part sites specify applicability by engine code. Hope this helps.
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Thanks for that. The £13 KA master cylinder arrived. It's for a MK2 KA. It looks like its not a repairable item, no circlip holding the piston in, also it features one of those tiny trapped ball bearings that is probably some form of pressure relief. The diameter of the ring on the mounting surface is quite large. On the plus side the two output ports would be on the side away from the exhaust manifold. The diameter of the bore is not obvious. Googling away for more info it appears that on the KA the two outlets are used for diagonally opposed brakes, and there are two possible bores 20 and 21 mm. So on the face of it this might not be the best candidate. I am going to continue with trying to fit it, however am busy web surfing for other possibilities, preferable with 19 mm bore.
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I'm rebuilding the Exmo after 17 years under a tarp. I'm re fitting the brake servo and master cylinder, the ones from the donor Sierra. I'd forgotten how close to the exhaust manifold it all gets. I stripped the master cylinder to find a sorry state of gunge and corrosion. The bore is so-so but the rubbers and springs are shot. I could buy a repair kit, however I suspect it would not last long. Getting a whole new master cylinder (Lucas/Girling Part No. 74066315) is prooving elusive. So I am going to try fitting a Ford KA master cylinder without a servo. Searching our archives here there are plenty of mentions of this having been done, however no specific information with part numbers and instructions. Does anyone here have such information that they are willing/able to share ?...... I have bought a cheap used "KA master cylinder" on eBay, (waiting for delivery), and will soon start trying to make it fit.
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The answer to your question is NO, you don't always need a donor car. IMHO it just depends on how much money you are prepared to spend. Do that first. At one end of the scale buy a complete kit from Caterham, with little mechanical knowledge and a few free weekends you can be on the road in no time. On the other end buy Ron Champion's book https://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Your-Sports-Little-£250/dp/0854299769 and learn how to do the mechanicals/design and meet IVA requirements and get parts from many donor cars and in SEVERAL years you might be on the road if you have the tenacity to complete your mission. In between these two extremes, just Google "UK kit car manufacturers" and you will see many choices try https://www.totalkitcar.com/uk/uk-manufacturers/. Try and look at the build manual of something you like, see if you feel it's within your skills, think about the cost, and make your choice. Good luck.
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Just to be pedantic the part number is QCC1585.
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My personal experience is with the Exmo kit. You ditch the Sierra expansion tank and use the radiator from a Cortina. This radiator is mounted vertically such that the level of coolant in the header tank is high enough to be the highest point in the cooling system while still leaving an air space for expansion. I just used the pressure cap that was originally on the Sierra expansion tank. This is a 2 litre Pinto. Overfill the radiator, i.e. to the top. Run engine hard to get to high temp, expansion causes overflow which I just let drain away. After that no more overflow and you can see the space needed for expansion. In my case it was say about 20 mm above the top of the core and did not go lower. I could have added an overflow pipe and collector bottle but I never see any more coolant come out. I just check that the level is that same 20mm above the core from time to time. In case it is of interest. I list the temp and pressure ratings for the Sierra below. Not sure waht happened in 1987 probably the fuel injection.
Thermostat
Nominal temperature rating (fully open):
SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88ºC (190º F)
CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100ºC (212ºF)
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . 102ºC (216ºF)
Opening temperature:
SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)
CVH models . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88ºC (190ºF)
CVH (R6A type) model. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)
Expansion tank cap opening pressure
SOHC models:
Up to 1987 . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.85 to 1.1 bar (12 to 16 lbf/in2)
From 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.25 bar (15 to 18 lbf/in2)
CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.25 bar (15 to 18 lbf/in2)
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 bar (15 to 20 lbf/in2) -
No I have never done this. However if you look at this adapter as part of the ATR remote reservoir kit you will see that it uses a fibre washer as a liquid seal. I attach an image that I scraped from their catalogue. In your picture above I can see you have a washer but it's not clear if its fibre. Oh! just thought it might be copper not fibre.
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It all depends on whether you want an expansion tank or an overflow tank .... they are different. See the Youtube below for a description of both set-ups. Also see the link to a description of how the cap lets out excess pressure/fluid when engine hot and can suck back air/fluid when cooling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkhYt-OaipE
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/radcap.htm
Hope these help you decide.
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In the blurb "Individual Cars. We have been in the motor trade industry for over 40 years" yet they say its a 2B and its a series 3, no underbonnet snaps, and in the snap of the spares the donor engine block has been placed with the exposed cylinder head mating surface down on rough paving. All not very reassuring.
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Your photo appears to show a standard Ford vented oil filler cap, the one that has vents on the underside of the mushroom and a hole in the middle in which a wire gauze can be seen and an O ring seal on the outside (I think). This is adequate, wash it out with paraffin and let it drain to make sure it's not clogged up. As you are going for the catch can option the inlet manifold will not be sucking any fumes, so no vacuum possible in crankcase, so theoretically no vent in oil filler would be needed, however it can't harm. Although if your engine gets badly worn or a piston ring leaks badly then you could get fumes and oil mist coming out of the vent in the filler cap. I'd like to think that you would fix the engine before it got that bad. It sounds like you have a good enough catch can. It doesnt need a vent because it IS the vent. That is it is the way that excess pressure is going to escape the crank case. There will be an in pipe and and out pipe. In from the crankcase out to the atmosphere. These should be marked on the catchcan, if not open it up, the IN pipe should go down into the can below a baffle or filter and the OUT should come from the top of the catchcan. As well as routing the in pipe so as to avoid a syphon of oil when cornering (read Dave Andrews) try to position the end of the out pipe where a flow of air under the car will serve to draw fumes out. Do not point the end of the pipe into the airflow under the car because this will blow air against the venting fumes and ruin everything. Something like at a 45 degree angle towards the rear seems practical, if you could also bend the very end to be in line with the airflow like the left half of a "U" then so much the better.
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Hi, are you sitting comfortably then I will begin.
Don't panic. Go back to basics and work from there. What is going on here ?. If the pistons and rings formed a perfect seal in the cylinders then everything that comes in through the inlet valves would exit via the exhast valves and in the crankcase below the pistons there would be a lot of oil splashing about but no increase in pressure, the air volume wont change because as two pistons travel down, two are travelling up. However, this is not a perfect world, even from new there is a leak of gasses past the pistons on compression and combustion, as the engine wears this leak increases. If the crankcase were sealed there would be a build up of pressure which eventually would blow fumes and oil spray out of all the weakest bits of the crank case, like the filler cap, dipstick, crankshaft and camshaft oil seals etc. Clearly this would not be good. For most of the history of internal combustion engines this problem has simply been solved by providing a vent somewhere on the crankcase, usually in a place where there is a minimum of oil splashing about. The vent pipe would then go into some form of oil trap to "catch" condensing oil droplets before being routed under the vehicle to a position where air flow provides a slight venturi effect to help draw out gasses. Note that with this simple setup there is not really a need for any other vents. In recent times, 1980s-90s the escape of the fumes into the atmosphere is frowned upon, and I think in some markets illegal. Today all vehicles are fitted with Positive Crankcase Ventillation (PCV). This is not complicated, what happens is that instead of the vent pipe simple being routed under the vehicle out to the environment and causing pollution it is routed into the inlet manifold where the vacuum sucks pollution back into the fuel and air mixture for comustion and exit via the exhast which now has the catalytic converter and oxidisers etc. to reduce emissions. However as with many things, it is not quite as simple as that, there are two things that come along with this solution. Firstly to avoid a build up of vacuum in the crankcase there needs to be an inlet vent, which is usually provided by a vented oil filler cap. Secondly the flow of gasses into the inlet manifold needs to be controlled to keep a steady flow regardless of engine load, otherwise the variation of vacuum in the inlet manifold will mess up the carefully metered air/fuel mixture. To do this a "PCV valve" is fitted to the vent pipe somewhere after the oil trap and before entering the inlet manifold. A clever little mechanically simple device that keeps a constant flow as the gas pressure/vacuum varies. So thats it really. If you dont care about pollution then use the old fasioned solution, which is what I think Dave andrews solution, however make sure that if your inlet manifold has a connection for the vent pipe then block it otherwise air will be sucked in. If you want to save the environment, then fit the standard vented oil filler, standard small Sierra oil trap, standard sierra PCV valve and connect the vent to your standard ford inlet manifold where there should be a place to plug it in. In your photos there appears to be a blue pipe that in two of them is connected to a filter and not connected in one photo, I assume this is the pipe that is spitting oil. I think you will find that this pipe is plugged into the block and is the vent pipe and that a previous owner has simple routed to in front of the fan so as to blow fumes and oil spray away under the bonnet. If there is a lot of oil then there probably is no oil trap or PCV valve further down. So simplest for you is to check that any connection point on the inlet manifold is blocked, which it most likely is. Then route that blue pipe to a simple catch can, there are many advertised online. Check that there is no PCV valve because without a vacuum from the manifold it won't work, although if you have fumes spitting out of the blue pipe then likely there is no PCV valve. Note Dave Andrews' warning about avoiding oil syphoning under cornering when you route the pipe to the catch can. The catch can will need to be drained occasionally, so some have a drain tap at the bottom. Phew, still reading ? thats enough!!
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Your observation regarding the revcounter failure is interesting. Usualy the counter uses a wire connected to the low tension circuit of the ignition coil. When a spark is generated the low tension circuit is briefly broken. So the rev counter uses this to cause the needle to move, more circuit breaks means the needle moves further round, indicating more revs. Now you are seeing the counter fail, showing no revs. This raises some possibilities. Firstly the wire connectiing the rev counter to the ignition circuit is at fault, or the rev counter is at fault, or the ignition module is not generating the contact breaks. If for example the rev counter or connecting wire is occasionally causing an intermittent connection to earth or 12v then the on/off/on pulse at the coil won't occur and then no spark. No spark means cylinder full of fuel vapour is pumped into the exhaust the when the sparks resume the next firing cylinder exhaust stroke will cause a backfire. So I would try to rule out the rev counter circuit by disconnecting it at it's connection point to the coil circuit.
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One thing to check would be the PCV valve. If it is sticking in the open position it will cause problems at idle and low revs. Just google "how does a pcv valve work" and you will find loads of info on it, how to check, fix etc.
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Run without air filter so that you can look down the carb barrels. As soon as the engine cuts out look down the main barrel and open the throttle quickly to operate the throttle pump, if there is no squirt of petrol it would confirm an empty float chamber. If it always starts with Easy Start then again as IanS says it's going to be fuel shortage.
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On 7/23/2024 at 12:38 PM, twinturbo said:
The few pictures I have seen of the EXMO use the standard sierra ARB up front, yet mine has compression struts. Was there a revision or has this been done off piste by the original builder. It has the long rear shox which I may or may not think about doing something with.
Cheers
Rob
I am finding your description a just little confusing. By "compression struts" do you mean tie bars that can be adjusted, as opposed to the ARB that can't be adjusted.
Newbie Indicator Stalk Help (another!)
in Electrics
Posted · Edited by Sparepart
change
I attach below a pdf that has a colour diagram of the lighting circuits. The steering column switch shows up as items 35 and 36 which are housed in the same unit and share contacts. So looking at this we can answer your questions about contacts as follows:-
54. Live via Fuse 9 from ignition switch posn 2 and 3
30. Live direct from battery
15. Live un-fused power from the ignition switch posn 2 and 3
31.- Can't see this on the column switch (35/36) it is the earth connection on the indicator flasher relay. If the one you see on the column switch has brown wire the its probably an earth.
56a. Feeds fuses 14 and 15, Main beam (also driving lights relay which you most likely dont have)
56b. Feeds fuses 16 and 17, Dip beam (possibly a dip beam relay which you most likey dont have)
55. Think that might be the horn.
58. Feeds fuses 18 and 19, Side lights, number plate light etc.
H is power from the Hazard warning swich, on top of column.
L. and R. are the Left and Right power to the LHS and RHS indicator bulbs from the flasher relay via pin 49a.
The frantic clicking of the flasher unit is most likely either a bad bulb or bad earth to the bulbs. The flasher unit uses the current flowing through it to heat a bi metal strip, that then breaks the contact until it cools down and then makes contact again etc, it is wired in parallel to the flasher bulbs, and has its own earth (see diagram) so if the bulb circuit goes to hight resistance, more current flows through the flasher and it heats up quicker and operates more often.
Sierra-Lights-Wires.pdf