nelmo

Great, thanks. Coincidentally, a new Screwfix is opening this weekend near me with a 10% off everything offer. I was planning on going - would you advise against there stuff?

Hmm, thank you all - so is there a standard for washers and bolts? Some markings I should be looking for? How thin is too thin? For example, my master brake cylinder arrived without fittings. I'd already decided to put a flat washer behind the spring washer but the bolt from my (probably rubbish) set is black. I'm not sure if that is a coating or just some cruddy material. I'm guessing it might not be an issue for the brake cylinder as it doesn't seem to be a high-stress area, or is that codswallop?

Continuing my education (I have no formal engineering experience or qualifications), I have a few basic questions, if you don't mind: 1. I bought a set of mixed nuts, bolts and washers. The washers are spring washers - are these OK to use where you would use flat washers or are they for a specific purpose only? 2. Is a nyloc nut as good as using thread lock on a normal nut? Or are they each for a specific purpose? 3. Is there a bolt material that is best to use or is it dependent on application? Thanks for any advice.

I'm impressed you managed to get up to 35mph with no steering wheel :-) The vinyl looks very good to my inexperienced eye although, personally I would have spread the dials out a little more - aren't you left with potential weak points between those main dials?

OK, thanks all. I haven't actually got the seat belt kit yet so I'll wait until it arrives and see what my options are.

Balls!! I've gone about 1/3rd of the way in - is that too far for safety? I'm guessing yes... Do those sear bolts have to be a certain size/type for IVA? I was thinking of just finishing this one with this size and get one bolt to fit. Then I'll do the rest 'correctly'.

OK, I apologise for my lack of knowledge, so be gentle... GBS told me to use a tap (die? which is which?) to clear out the powder coat from the thread for the seat belt fixings, saying I needed a 7/16 tap. So off I went and bought a basic set. Today, I started on the thread and after a few turns, it felt too difficult for just clearing out powder coat. A close look reveals that I have started creating a lovely new thread with a different pitch (is that the right word? Thread is much tighter than the existing thread) So what have I done wrong? When looking at tap sets, there is no mention of different thread types - I just bought one that said it contained a 7/16 tap (it has '7/16 BSF18' stamped on it).

Ah, that looks good - many thanks...

It's a 7", so must be the long ones - any idea what length and size (M8, M10?)? I've got a Haynes manual on order and I assume that will tell me?

Just picked up my Sierra diff but no idea what size/number of bolts I need - can anyone advise? Any particular material better than another (zinc plated, stainless er...or whatever)?

Would a swirl pot prevent the problem anyway?

Yup, exactly what I've done Thanks all...

Got a box of 3.2mm rivets from GBS for my kit and, typically, my drill kit has a 3mm and 3.5mm drill bit but not 3.3mm. I've drilled a test hole and with the 3.5mm bit, the rivet, as you'd expect, sits a little loosely in the hole. I haven't got any spare metal yet to do a test with but will the rivet be firm enough once popped? Or should I really get a 3.3mm bit?

Great - thanks all. Compromised and ordered a 1.5L

Is there an optimum size for a swirl pot? Any advantage to a bigger one? I believe the GBS one is 1L but reading RichardL's blog, i think he used a 2L?

Hmm, is it ok to have AN-8 (screw-on) fittings? The GBS one doesn't. .. Also, problem if the top feed is vertical rather than horizontal? Space under the bonnet?

Great, thanks....

An electronic search of the IVA manual brings up only one mention of 'tachometer' - it can be used during the emissions test instead of a separate engine speed measuring device. I remember the excitement when the 3rd car i owned had a rev counter :-)

Based on the fact that it seems to be the first thing that rusts and it's very obvious, i was considering putting a coat of Hammerite on the central boss of the brake disc (obviously not the braking area) - is that ok to do? I ask only because no-one ever seems to do this - i saw a brand new 5-series that looked great except for the trace of rust already appearing on the disc boss.

On a similar subject, do you know the size of that GBS swirl pot? 1L, 1.5L, 2L? Or physical dimensions? They are much cheaper on eBay...

By my maths, if you want a 5 minute film at the end (at 25fps) and assuming 200 hours build time, i make that you'll need to take one pic every 2 minutes or so - is that right? If so, that will be tricky to remember to do...

That's what I've been told before, which is why I'm considering opting for a Q plate. I've tried reading the relevant documents online but they're as clear as mud...is this normal for MOT centres or is your bloke just very nice to you? Ps: this is the thread that discusses in more detail (sorry, on this forum, not GBS): http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=42155

Hi, I'm hoping to get my kit about the same time, although it's already been delayed by 2 weeks (should have got it this weekend according to the original schedule). Can i ask when you ordered yours? How are you doing the time lapse? I thought about it but couldn't find a cheap camera that had a time lapse function. Have you got one or are you going to take the pics manually? I'm planning to use new parts as well but I'm considering opting for a Q plate, to save on the hassle of future MOTs (read the thread on the GBS owners forum). Good luck!

Thanks all - ordered a tin....

I've bought some Halfords caliper paint which is working fine but I can't seem to clean the brush after use - neither water or white spirit is working. Any ideas what I should be using? No suggestions on the tin or online. Edit: found a data sheet - paint mostly contains xylene, if that helps?