dandan62

Sorted My lovely son replaced the carb and manifold last year. Bolts nearest no 4 both loose so and air leak! Phew. He ows me a beer. Suppose i should have checked!

Will add that to the list of things to try. Its getting shorter. Slightly afraid of frying the accuspark unit. Just checked all sparks. They all look the same. Did another less rushed compression check. That cylinder has always been about 10% above the others at about 180. Seems good but is there a clue there? Baffled

Its almost new and there is no play. Thanks for the ideas guys. Keep em coming! Cant get it at it today. Another thought is an air leak in the inlet for that cylinder. Will inspect tomorrow. Yes tried the rotating dizzy thing. Still no 4

Is everyone as stumped as me? I think its head off time...

Question.. could a damaged valve cause a misfire but still give good compression? Clutching at straws now. More info. Letting it run on idle with misfire and removing the plug straight away shows a wet with fuel plug. Revving the engine then removing it shows a good dry plug..

Question.. could a damaged valve cause a misfire but still give good compression? Clutching at straws now. More info. Letting it run on idle with misfire and removing the plug straight away shows a wet with fuel plug. Revving the engine then removing it shows a good dry plug..

Hold on to your hats. New cap, new rotor, new plug, new lead, new accuspark stealth unit, new coil. Checked compression (175) within 10% of others. Checked valve clearances, checked timing. Good battery voltage and voltage at the coil. Still not firing on no 4. Engine note doesn't change when i pull the lead. Pulling leads on others it misses more. There is a spark but it looks weak. Orange and dancing about the gap. Took for a drive. Drives fine above about 2500 revs. Or maybe the problem is hidden above that? But seems to perform well. I'm stuck. All answers appreciated. David

Just saying nice to see another local RH owner! Not many of us around here. I live in Bury.

New cap, leads and plug. I think I'll draw this to a close and let you know when everything is replaced and then come begging for help if its still there. Valve clearance good by the way. Thanks guys.

That was my thought but compression is very good in that cylinder. I tried testing another spark but the car won't run on 2 cylinders and i was single handed so couldn't just test on turning it over. My money is on coil giving generally weak spark. The fact that given some beans it seems to run ok points to that , I think. I'll replace one thing at a time and report back.

I had a brand new replacement already. Same with lead and plug. I've decided to increase my spares selection and have ordered coil, ignition module and rotor. It must be one of those methinks. Always handy to have in the boot anyway.

Hi there. My trusty pinto has a misfire. Removing no 4 lead from the spark plug reveals that cylinder is the problem as there is no change. Have changed lead, plug, distributor cap with no luck. Compression good. There is a spark when i hold it against the engine but it looks a little feeble. Its an accuspark dizzy with electronic module. Could that module or the rotor arm cause one weak spark? Engine seems ok at higher revs. Webber carb by the way. Any clues? Thanks in advance. Dave

There's a guy on the strickly kitcar Facebook page in Bognor Regis selling a Locust for £2250. Correctly registered but needs some work.

My son has a set of new alloys with tyres off his Spitfire. Hes having trouble selling them Do you think they are worth putting up for sale on kit car sites? Not sure how many kits use Triumph fit wheels. I have a feeling they are different from anything else. Cheers.

Ps.. forgot to say mine is a stainless monocoque. I think heavier than a 2b??

As for top speed I get to 80 easily . It will do more but that will do me. Many will laugh at the 0-60 but using an app I have just managed sub 10 secs. I don't like to strain engine and clutch too much as i don't fancy replacing either just yet. It may do quicker. Original bhp was about 75. Old engine but with upgraded bits I can't imagine its much more. I'm not a racer so it does me fine for local trips to pubs etc.

Hi. I too have a 1600. Its a lovely revvy engine but will never produce fireworks. Luckily I'm not after that. Mine sounds like it was in exactly the same state as yours when i got it. It had all the usual issues. The main culprit turned out to be a non working second choke. I changed everything in the ignition. I've also put a 2 ltr cam in and now a weber 32/36 carb. I think I have the most out of the engine without throwing silly money at it. I'll stick with it till it falls apart. Everyone will tell you to put a 2 ltr in. If you want fireworks then that's your route. I also had a transmission whine. It was the differential. It never failed but i have changed to a 3.92 ratio which helped acceleration and got rid of the whine. Good luck and enjoy it!

Tie bars finally fitted. Took ages to find a workshop who could drill and tap the old roll bar. Car is transformed as expected. If you haven't done this conversation, do it!

Don't worry. Found a tool man enough. Have made brackets and cut old roll bar. Off to the metal workshop tomorrow to have them drilled and tapped.

Finally I'm getting round to doing the tie bar conversation to replace the Sierra anti roll bar. Just checking the tools I need and I don't have a socket big enough for the large nut at the TCA end of the anti roll bar. Anyone know the size so I order the correct one? Seems to be roughly 26 mm. Thanks

Had exactly the same issue last weekend. It was the ignition barrel. Cleaned contacts. Wd40 into the keyway and it hasn't happened again

Fitted the valve. Tiny bit of pinking so adjusted timing to 6 degs and it's not pinking any more. It seems those little valves have a purpose after all.

I have always used Halfords 20/50 classic oil. I have read that it's best to stick to mineral oils. I believe valvoline do a 20/50 but higher spec if you need it

There are two types of valves in the system. One is indeed a fuel vapour trap and the other is the vacuum delay valve. This is the one I'm pinning my hopes on. Otherwise I'll get into the dizzy and adjust the vacuum advance manually I think. The car seems to run fine with no pinking with it disconnected but I'm aware of all the advantages of vacuum advance. I'll report back when it's all connected.

I'm back. I took the car off the road for the winter and rather forgot about the pinking. With a fresh new year head it is almost solved. I unplugged the vacuum advance and hey presto no pinking! It seems the vacuum is advancing things a bit agressively. I want it connected for the usual reasons so next step is to reinstate the various valves that used to be in line in the old carb but not used in this one. I believe these delay the vacuum advance. Just waiting for some extra hose and connectors. Hopefully problem solved simply!