phaeton

I once owned one briefly, got taken away for scrap in the end

2 hours ago, Freeatlast said:

any more details , seller , location etc , I can  not find it.  

Sorry I can't provide you with the link & stay within the rules of the club

There is a red one for sale on Facebook 

On 1/17/2025 at 3:37 PM, Derek said:

One of the very rare occasions I used the rear fog light.

In 50 years of driving I've never found it ever necessary, TBH I think they are a contraption from hell, they should be banned or only ever issued to somebody after an extensive training course. 

1 hour ago, Foz said:

It looks like a coil-over, so I would normally say that you don't need to compress the spring ............. but it doesn't look like a "normal" coil-over so it might be a RH "special" in which case it might be prudent to play safe !  Sorry for not being very specific but, hopefully, somebody else will recognise it and be able to give a definite answer.

Steve

Without an image showing the top & the bottom, I think it's a good answer

Do you have access to a leak down tester?

Speak to your accountant, although I do know somebody who puts everything he spends on his kitcar through the books, how risky it is I have no idea.

2 minutes ago, Jonty Wild said:

Any other suggestions

NOS?

1 hour ago, nelmo said:

What they should do is offer to contact the current owner and pass your details on, leaving it up to them whether to reply or not.

I'm sure they could come up with a reason to charge an extortionate amount of money for it as well.

3 hours ago, Jonty Wild said:

It is called data protection. Personally I am glad random people cannot find out who owns a particular car (registration) and where they live. It would be a wonderful tool for car thieves, scammers. Even the Police can get into trouble if they try to find out details of car owners without reasonable cause/need.

But it was never 'random people' you had to & still have to have a valid reason, one of the old acceptable valid reasons was you used to own the car previously, they have now stopped that.

https://www.gov.uk/request-information-from-dvla/request-information-about-another-vehicle-registered-keeper

You can ask for details of another vehicle’s registered keeper. You’ll need a ‘reasonable cause’, for example:

• finding out who was responsible for an accident
• tracing the registered keeper of an abandoned vehicle
• tracing the registered keeper of a vehicle parked on private land
• giving out parking tickets
• giving out trespass charge notices
• tracing people responsible for driving off without paying for goods and services
• tracing people suspected of insurance fraud

9 hours ago, nelmo said:

You can, although I'm not sure what they can tell you and it looks like you'll need a 'reasonable explanation' - try this:

https://www.gov.uk/request-information-from-dvla

The will tell you the square root of bugger all, I tried it for one of my old kits, they hide behind the new GDPR rules, they used to be able to do it but no longer.

3 hours ago, Bob Tucker said:

Its a coach bolt, id cut a slot in the head and use a flat screwdriver, then replace it.

Not saying don't do it this way, but be very careful if you do, do not get the head too hot or as before it will burn into the gel coat.

When you scrap the shell if you use a registered dismantler or registered scrap merchant they will ask for the car Reg No, they will mark the vehicle as scrap, however you will retain the V5C which you can send in with your application 

Personally I would take an angry grinder to the underside, cut the the bolt & the nut off, I'd probably come at it so that you're cutting the bolt in half from the top if that makes sense to keep the blade away from the bracket, you should then be able to peel the remainder of the nut off. Take it steady & don't get the bolt too hot otherwise it may make a mess of your gelcoat.

On 11/15/2024 at 9:50 AM, Sparepart said:

I can't see how the actual donor V5 can be part of registering a kit car, although of course a photo copy or scan could be retained by you.

One of the questions on registering is how was the rest of the vehicle scrapped so they expect it to be scrapped, you will be fine that's how it's supposed to be done.

Never found the need myself, but I would try the usual suspects, Adrian Flux, Graham Sykes, A Plan or Howden as they are now known, if they don't do it they may be able to suggest another that does.

They are Anuba hinges apparently available from your friendly Fleecbay supplier

Heat would be the ideal solution but with the vinyl so close it's not going to be an option, but something like PlusGas will eventually get there, another option if feasible would be a small tray with diesel in, then invert the hinges into it. Alternatively if they snap, drill out & rethread 

Randomly changing the valve timing isn't really the way to do it, you could end up burning out your valves, if you have the setup from the machinist then you should be using a dial indicator to set them up as per spec.

1 hour ago, George said:

@phaeton might be a silly question but how do I check this? On the V5 I assume? And how should it be registered? 

I would expect a Tiger Cat E1 or something like that, but definitely not a Ford Sierra

All depends on what it failed on & how the repairs were made, remember the MOT is only worth anything in the hours after it has been tested, it's only an indication of the vehicle state at the time of the test & has no bearing on it's state now, assuming also it was a genuine fair test.

If it failed on bulbs, headlight alignment etc. then maybe just a sloppy person taking it for it's test. If it failed on corrosion etc. then that is another matter.

Without knowing the Reg No of the kit, it's a piece of string question.

Check that it is registered correctly

Local saddler & horse rug repairers might be able to help you, but again it all depends where the tear is & how 'neat' you want the finish

Only ever issue I have ever had with an AC unit is it having a leak in the condenser, you need to use a unit that will create a vacuum to see if it holds.

52 minutes ago, Jonty Wild said:

Really, but for how long?

Had them in use for years in the past, if you're having issues then you should look at both surfaces to make sure they are flat.

TBH these days I still make them out of cardboard or gasket paper (if I happen to have some) but I do put a thin smear of gasket sealant on both side, only because I have it available.

Problem is they are all different, the Shogun all I did was fit the unit in the back door, it was a simple matter of getting a permanent 12V there, then working out which was the 12V pulse to open & 12V pulse to close. The Jimny was a bit more work as you had to interrupt the switch on the drivers door lock otherwise you could only get it to lock or unlock can't remember which way. When I put it on the GTM K3 there was no CL existing unit & it fitted straight in.

But looking at your wiring diagram it doesn't make sense, the CL unit is only controlling 1 unit, which in turn controls the other unit, but in your hand drawn diagram you appear to be trying to control each separately?