phaeton

Got myself some tie bars, with it being a 2B4 with round tubing what have people done about mounting the box section for the rose joint to the chassis?

I went to get new ones, although they look new already, they didn't have any in stock, but several people had a gander at them & we're all convinced they are fine. I'll try to get them though

Spoke too soon, it was going for MOT tomorrow so put the bonnet on & decided just to run up road. Got to end of road & then it would rev couldn't get it above 1200, then it started popping & banging exactly as before. 

Is the body to engine strap in good condition, might be worth cleaning the terminals & checking they are tight, can you also get a video of it when in position? Also look at the teeth on the flywheel, because of compression it does tend to stop in 1 of 4 places end time.

Edit:- Just another thought take the plugs out & try to see if it will spin the engine over then without as much pressure on.

It can't spin the same way if connected or else the flywheel would turn, assuming it's not taken the teeth off the flywheel. The suggest was to check both the live & the earth to make sure that when under load it's getting full 12V

Check your earths & lives

10 hours ago, maca said:

If your carb needle valvue is closed then the pump should not be making a noise unless it needs to pump fuel so could be ok.

 

That's interesting as I have a Flutra fuel pump http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/flutra-competition-fuel-pump-2-4-4-psi-50-litres-hour-282/ which runs all the time when the ignition is on, so much so I've put a switch under the dash to switch it off whilst I've been working on other things with the ignition on. I wasn't aware there was anything 'intelligent' about them to switch off once pressure was achieved.

It's the older 2 wire system, spring loaded brushes running on the back of the boss adapter, there was 3 bolts holding the 2 parts of the adapter together, they were a bit long & must have been connecting with the wire at the back of the horn press. Cut the bolts shorter & added in some extra insulation, but as usual last thing to do was push the horn push back onto the housing, got it slightly wrong & broke one of the fixing legs off! So at the moment you have to press the metal strip to get the horn to work until I get a new one.

Okay so now the engine is running okay(ish) the next problem stopping MOT is the horn, it likes to sound when it wants to, often turning the steering wheel, sometimes leaning on the wheel & bizarrely enough if you undo the steering column height lever. It has a relay right at the front of the chassis, I took the boss adaptor & can see 2 terminals which run on 2 rings on the back of the adaptor. Can anybody tell me if it switches to earth or switches to live & any idea what colour wire I'm looking for?

I think after many red herrings we're getting somewhere, checked the tappets, they're all good, all valves moving as they should, although the brand new feeler gauges had to be modified

Then checked the timing

All good,

Took the top off the weber to make sure the float wasn't stuck, the B******D R clip was a right PITA to get back n

After which it was exactly the same!!

I was looking at the plugs as they'd sooted up again, Unipart, so I said to my wife, I'm going to go get a new set of plugs, it won't be them, but there's nothing else to change, so nipped to the local car spares & got a set of NGK's £8 for 4 plugs, put them in, started first throw of the key, purred away nicely, went up the road occasional pop but nothing drastic, came back leaned the fuel off 1/4 turn, up road, better, 1/4 turn, now runs nice, still a little hesitant are 2K trimmed the timing from 10 to 8 degrees now seems all okay. Still may take it to the Rolling Road on Friday let him set it up properly, he's match the jets to the engine, but a lot happier now.

Right still fighting, pulled off the camcover & at TDC I have the cam in the right place, the dizzy is however 180 degrees out if it should be pointing to the front of the car & be closest to the cambelt. Either way to stop it catching on the block I turned it 90 degrees & then moved the leads to suit. It runs a lot better, I think it's at 10 degrees but my timing light went on the blink, it's one with a dial at the back to dial in degrees & it seems to have stopped working. But the engine runs a lot smoother, but I still have overfueling problems, plugs come out full of soot, trying to accelerate has flames coming out of the carb.

There's a tuner about 5 miles up the road I may admit defeat & for £60 let him sort it.

On 8/18/2020 at 8:32 AM, IanS said:

Take the feed from before the dip switch.

Is this feed within the steering column shroud, I was trying to find a feed the other day in a junction about 18 inch from the steering column & struggling.

Sorry Peter I asked last night & he doesn't think he can help, but as others have said I would be checking with DVLA as this is the first time I have ever heard of it. Maybe also ask on the locostbuilders, but several members here have gone through fairly recent IVA's but I understand your concern. Alan..

A image may help, is it a oil filter sandwich plate? If so there usually is a threaded sleeve in the middle with a hex on the end.

Pete,

Can you get the car to the garage, I have a mate who lives not far along the coast from you, he knows quite a few mechanics I can ask him to ask them but I presume you will have to go to them.

Alan..

Thanks all I'll check tomorrow evening I'm surprised it runs at 40 degrees TBH

It's not running right I thought it was a carb but set that back to base level screw all the way in then back out 2 turns, but even with that it's still banging & popping, refusing to rev up. So I thought I'd check the timing, read it ought to be around 8 degrees, when I checked it assuming I did i right it's had 40 degrees of advance, I'm managed to pull it back to 32 degrees but now the wiring is hitting the engine. Looks like I'll have to swap the leads back a hole & try it again tomorrow, but can you just sensecheck my logic.

Engine turns clockwise, there are markings on the crank pulley, they appear to be the first mark 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 & the last TDC with 12 being the first as the engine spins, there is also a mark on the casing, I put some ink on the last mark which I believe is TDC & started the engine, my timing light is one with a dial on the back so you turn the knob until the marks line up with TDC then read the gauge.

The quality of the image isn't great but can somebody confirm that the engine is now at TDC

It has just had a new camshaft fitted, could it be it's not lined up correctly & the belt is a tooth or more out?

They are great but I hope you have deep pockets, they drink dinosaur juice like it is going out of business 

Think it's been changed to an electronic one, although I suppose the shaft could still be worn 

Got the toffee hammer out this morning & gave the carb a few gentle taps around the float chamber, didn't really want to strip it down if I can get away with it, pulled the plugs out & found some of the sootiest plugs I have ever seen. Gave them a clean up & reset the carb back to 2 turns from the stop, after that it fired straight up, still a bit rich I think but the ignition timing is a bit off, I think I need a new rotor arm & cap. I put my timing light on at one point & it was missing sparks on No1 cylinder so hopefully get them tomorrow.

What is the standard timing on a 2.0L Pinto?

Been playing with this for a while now, thought I had sorted it but it's still not 100%, there is a tin box with 3 relays in, 1 marked NC with the others marked NO, all the wires that come off them are green (lol) & seem to go to the back of the foglight switch. But what is happening now after rewiring the headlights, switch headlights on with ignition on, furthest away is full beam, middle is dip & pulling towards is now flash. However if you leave them in full beam then switch them off on the right hand switch they stay on, pulling them onto dip they go out, back to full they stay off, so it's back feeding from somewhere. I did find a loose wire & there is a buzzer which isn't connected, so I presume it's all about Section 28 of the IVA manual. Has anyone seen anything like it before?

Note 4: Either of the following scenarios will also be considered acceptable: The rear fog lamp(s) may continue to operate until the position lamps are switched off, and the rear fog lamp(s) must then remain off until deliberately switched on again or, An audible warning, additional to the mandatory telltale light, must be activated if the ignition is switched off or the ignition key is withdrawn and the driver's door is opened, whether the lamps in (RS4) are on or off, whilst the rear fog lamp switch is in the "on" position.

It also has an electric fuel pump which is really annoying when you're trying to find an electrical issue as it's running all the time, so I went under the back of the car to see if I could disconnect it whilst I was fiddling, only to find a switch fitted I've since moved it from the back of the car to a place reachable from the driver's seat

Does anything work, indicators, hazards, if you can get any to work leaving them on & go around just touching the relays.

2 hours ago, dandan62 said:

On mine which is Sierra based furthest away is full beam. Maybe yours needs a wire swap somewhere? 

51 minutes ago, maca said:

Depends what switch you have maybe.

On mine with ignition switched on you switch head lights on then the left lever controls as:-

Away from you Main Beam, Centre position Dip Beam & Pull towards you Flash Main Beam.

Without ignition switched on only side lights.

Yes that is how I'm expecting it, something is not wired quite right, also when I then switch the lights off (right hand switch) but with the ignition still on the lights stay on until you switch off the ignition, which again either wrong wiring or a sticking relay, now to find the little blighter

Or I suppose I could just wheel it along kicking it every 3rd rotation of the pedals

Anybody got any they want to sell, I know you can buy new from kit spares but £636 seems an awful lot of money to me.