baj25

Does anyone have a good condition foam type air filter/fittings for DGAV (e.g. ITG formula ford type) that they want to sell? Sensible price paid. North West ideally, or meet Stoneleigh on Sunday. TIA, Brian

At risk of inviting a biology lesson, which bit is the female with these things? There are 2 bits that do the clipping together, one of which has got an internal spring ring (that rattles around)- I fitted the bit without the spring ring to the screen, but haven’t done the rest of the hood and am a bit worried if it is correct now! At risk of hijacking thread- how do the other 2 bits fix together/ to the hood, and where can you get spare ‘button’ covers (to use for SVA) Brian

Thanks for the tip on the lock. This one is 5mm projection and very rounded off, so I think it will be OK. Cheers, Brian

I’ve just got all the bits to do mine. V. similar to John- signmakers plastic c.4mm (doesn’t need treating like ply, and easier to bend), but I’m doing a 3-piece cover with hinged centre. The main difference I’ve noticed between different boots is whether you fix the front part on top or below the square section of chassis (where the harness fixings are). I’m going below. My plan is to do the centre bit first with hinge. Camlock I’ve got is from RS (part no 195-9616, about £10), hinge S/H from a fellow hoodie. I’ll use the RH side pieces as templates for cutting the plastic. Then vinyl the lot. HTH, Brian

Ian, you're in luck. I've got the original RH ones that I won't be using. And they are only in Standish! I'll give you a call to sort out passing them on. And I'll have to find them first! cheers, Brian

Bill, I have just found your solution on your website (it took a while). I like the sound of this. If I understand correctly, all I need to do is loosen the outer GRP from the stainless, pull it out 'enough', and re-fix? Were your stainless arches the standard or wider ones to start with? Is the objective to get a straight edge across the wheel arch to miss the wheel (not necessarily tyre)? TIA, Brian

When my back end was in the air (!) last weekend, I did a trial fit of the RH alloy on the O/S rear. My part built 2B came with the standard rear wings already fitted, and I know there is a common issue with the wheel being too wide, so this has been worrying me for a while. The bare wheel projects about 10mm beyond the wheel arch- is this likely to be OK for SVA when the tyre is fitted? Is there any difference between fitting 195s and 205s for this? I really don't fancy taking the rear wings off and doing them from scratch. TIA, Brian

Scottie, I think there was a recent thread on this. I believe you don't need a heat shield for sva. Brian

Sound advice from all as ever. Thanks to all who replied. Cheers, Brian

Tifosi told me at Oulton Park that they will have these in stock from this week. HTH, Brian

Hi Folks, I will soon be vinyl trimming my dash and boot covers, and having never used vinyl before, thought it best to see if there are any golden rules/tips I should know about. I've already got the vinyl, scrim and adhesive from Martrim in Sandbach. TIA, Brian

Tango, if this is still available, is it strong enough for a hinged boot lid on a 2B? And can it be cut down in length? If so, I'll take it. I'm in Standish so could collect easy enough. Cheers, Brian

I got some very similar ones off a mondeo in a scrap yard last week. 2 quid with all connectors etc. Might save you a bit doing same. Cheers, Brian

Ian, I'm in Standish and my 2B is still part-built. You are welcome to take a shuft if it helps you understand yours a bit more. And definitely invite Jim et al. around to yours. Brian

Cheers Craig, I don't need any adaptors then! It's not very often I have LESS items to buy than I thought! Brian

Best of luck! I thought that instrument bezels were OK with radius >2.5mm, so shouldn't need covering with perspex? I'd like to know for sure before I buy mine and fit them. Brian

So, are the threaded holes for senders in a pinto 1/8 NPT? I'm looking to buy my guages and senders soon, and it would be easier to get any adaptors at the same time. TIA, Brian

Came to fix my battery down at the weekend (on a 2B, it’s over passenger footwell) and there doesn’t seem to be much substantial to fix to! I’ve made a sub-frame for the battery to sit on and will screw the front of this to the chassis, and plan to put a piece of flat bar underneath to sandwich/beef-up the flimsy S/S panel. I’m happy with the frame’s grip of the battery, it’s the fixing of this lot to the car I’m thinking of. Any thought/ SVA experiences of battery fixing? (In the boot is not an option before ‘someone’ suggests it!) TIA, Brian

Col, I puzzled over this as well, and it all came together quite nicely in the end. Similar to Bill & Joey, I welded a 'blob' of steel inside the tube and Dremmelled it to the right size. Regarding the spacer, I used a couple of off-cuts (from work) of perspex/ makrolon sheet about 8" wide and 10" high. It took 2 pieces sandwiched together to get the right thickness (12mm+ 4mm). Cut the S/S fingers shorter in the body panel hole so that the filler cap sits nicely in, then use this hole in the body panel as template for cutting the hole in the perspex sheet. I think the advantage of using a biggish piece of material for the spacer is that when clamped up it, the back panel is really rigid. I'd take a photo, but the spacer is, Er, transparent. HTH, Brian

Well done. May I be the second to congratulate you. I've been watching the site all day to see how you got on- it gives us 'getting there' builders inspiration to see it can be done. Brian

Paul, Thats exactly what the gasket/seal does from the fuel level sender- it's exactly the right size and costs 10 bob! Brian

One tip I picked up (and used) from an old thread was to use the Ford filler seal, and to help it seal (because it is designed for a thicker wall tank) use a Ford rubber seal from the fuel level sender in the groove where it fits in the hole in the tank. I haven't got fuel in mine yet, but by heck it's a snug fit so shouldn't leak. I believe the Ford part numbers are: Fuel filler seal 1492183 (£2.93 inc vat), fuel level sender seal 6085380 (£0.52 inc vat). Still available at the end of last year. HTH, Brian

I am planning to fit a fuel level sender that doesn’t have fuel feed and return lines built in. Any suggestions on how to make a separate feed/return system for the tank? A couple of things on my mind are; is 6mm O.D. pipe OK for feed (the rest of the feed to the engine is 8mm)?; what material is recommended for the ‘dropper’ to the bottom of the tank? - It seems a long distance to have a Cu pipe unsupported and I think that it would work harden and break where it passes through the tank wall. TIA, Brian

I was thinking of doing something similar to Petemate, because the S/S tank seems pretty flimsy and I am worried that nipping down the sender unit onto the gasket will just distort the tank, leaving me with leaks. But I haven’t noticed any recent threads on this subject, so is there actually an issue with sealing when using the standard Ford gasket on the weedy RH S/S tank, or are me and Petemate being OTT? TIA, Brian

Sorry to be a while giving info requested. The Andrew Page part number I’ve got is CHA1388, CPR2. Other info on the packing is CPR2, clutch pawl kit, escort/ fiesta, 1986 on, 6189055. The bushes and spring in the replacement kit are not very good quality so I re-used the Ford ones. The guys in Page’s were very helpful- they got about 7 variants of this out for me to compare and the above info is of the one I chose. HTH, Brian