Tickover

It's only about an hour away for me so if I can get mine motor running without over heating before I'd love to join you lot

53 minutes ago, MAHATMA said:

the main thng is to ensure all the cool air pass through the radiator so make a cardboard template for a nosecone deflector also paint eginebay black

I am aiming to make sure the air passes through the rad and not around it. 

Why paint the bay black?

Sorry should have said in the original.. I've replaced the water pump and there was no thermostat in it so put one in with a 2mm drilled hole..

Hi all

My S3a lights to get hot quickly and over heats. It has an electric fan that is operated by a switch on the dash. I'm thinking about replacing the rad as the car had been sat for a number of years before I got it sorted. The core has cool spots when the car is up to temp. So one question is what one should I get to there isn't a lot of space..

It has no header, expansion tank or overflow bottle. I'm looking at putting an overflow bottle in but reading a few threads on here I'm wondering if some of my issues could be air locks as the rad cap is lower than some or the water system.. it has a heater which I'm looking at taking out at some point and the Weber carb that uses the water to operate the choke. Do I need to look at putting in a header tank up high? 

Any suggestions on this setup?

Hi lindzie

Did you find a replacement radiator? If so where from ?

Graham 

I'm looking to replace my rad as well on my S3a. I want to move it forward, if I can 8nto the nose cone to add more liquid into the system and add a header tank... has anyone else done this?

11 hours ago, IanS said:

Looking at the s**t that came out of the cooling system I wonder if some time in the past a previous owner has lost coolant and filled up by scooping water from a puddle.

that could explain that.

With the timing being out a bit would the contribute to overheating? I'm guessing the crap in the rad wouldn't help.

I'd better get a cam belt kit ordered up @IanS thanks

Evening all!

Question for the pinto engine gurus... been a long time since I done work like this on a motor. So In the process of replacing the water pump and flushing out the system overheated on a small run and turns out No thermostat in the engine.. took rad out and flushed that out with the hose and this came out... any ideas?

So then thought I'll do a belt change and when I put the crank pulley to TDC the cam pulley wouldn't line up with the mark on the head so has my belt slipped and knocked my timing out? 

Any advice on how to fix these issues? I'd it just a case of new belt and move the cam pulley into correct position? Starts and runs okay only been on one run and overheated and it wasn't a poky as expected..

How did you get on with this issue? Have you sorted it out yet?

Well after all the worries.. Good news! my hood past it's MOT today with advisory for... just tyres! After standing for so long I didn't expect that..

The down side is it overheated extremely quickly, so need to address that asap before I can enjoy it (have ordered a water pump) also didn't seem as quick as I was expecting it to be

9 hours ago, Peter Bell said:

The big nut holds the rear bearing/driveshaft assy, don’t undo that even if you could. The drum should come off but is probably rusted on at the centre where the black paint of the drum ends and the rusty spigot begins. If you haven’t already got one get a Haynes Sierra manual, the brakes are all in there.

Brill, Thanks @Peter Bell that's what i though and hoping it was. but with it being gone 830pm i was reluctant to give it a good Walloping, i have the haynes manual but it just said take drum off so i was getting frustrated and posted

Any one give any light on whether the cable adjuster id broken or not

Hi guys.. booked in for an MOT moved car, pulled handbrake on and something slipped so I'm guessing cable gone attached pic of what looks like broken adjuster?, or something in the drum gone?. Any info on the hand brake cable be welcome

So I've gone to take the drum off and it's not that easy.. I've wacked it with the copper mallet (but it's a bit late to really Welly it) and nothing. Does this nut need to come off to take the drum off? When I apply a little leverage it looks like the center nut and spacer are holding it on?

Thanks.. just want to get it MOTd and drive it

It's not that they refused to do it more they didn't want to do it. I asked if happy to do it being a kit car and that was thier response 

Ive never liked the idea of a Q plate until you say emissions are visual LOL , how come you got a Q plate?

2 hours ago, HAWKNORTH said:

My 3a was first registered in 1998 and just missed the introduction of IVA. It also has the advantage of a Q plate which means the emissions are visual only. Its not a problem as all in good order with no visible smoke. It is rather nice to know that no one's going to stick a sniffer tube up your exhaust pipe. It usually takes my guy about 15mins to test with me in the car as he is a little on the plump side.

I'm new to all this kit car stuff and loving it but its a big learning curve.

51 minutes ago, Sparepart said:

Yes that certificate is the SVA approval, same as for mine in January 2000. The SVA included an emission test, Limits were %CO by vol 3.5 and HC ppm 1200. The engine is/was as per the Sierra donor, twin choke downdraft carb (Weber DFTH 30/34) and no catalist. The actual tested values were 0.34 and 745 respectively, well within the limits. I have had several MOTs since, some have re-measured the emissions against these limits and earlier ones just didn't test, I don't know how they managed to do that and I didn't ask.

if they take a blind eye to to something that's only a bonus to you, as long as its not dangerous

Thats what they said! Something along the lines of we need to check the MOT manual for everything to double check if it should or shouldn't be like that.. it's their loss as I wanted to take my MR2 to them along withe the series 3 landrover once finished

No it doesn't which I was surprised about as it was done June 1999..  I have an age related plate, E reg

I have spoken to one garage, neighbours sone works there as a mechanic, doesn't do MOTS, but he said hey be happy to MOT it and if I have any info on the doner to bring that along. I have a receipt for the Sierra the builder bought with the original reg so hopefully they will know what they are doing and fingers crossed I don't get the green straight out of school inspector . I did ask a few other places and they weren't interested as it takes too long to do for £45!

Hi sorry if this has been asked before , couldn't find info in search.

Having bought my S3a last month I've got it ready for a MOT, it was 1st registered in June 1999 and so I'm wondering how the emissions work as the engine came from a 1987 Sierra. as I believe that as its post 1998 registration it will have to meet emissions at the time of the IVA? so I've been through the paperwork I have and found a receipt for the doner Sierra with registration number and this photocopy pic attached. is this the IVA cert?

Do I need to prove age of the engine for MOT Emissions? 

Cheers Graham

Let me know how you get on with that Jim, Im gonna definitely gonna have a think about how to install one, Ill fit an inline filter 100% and I was thinking of installing a bowl filter like you get on a Landrover series then at least that way the bowl will hold an amount of fuel and maybe help with the starting process.

how have you got on with this @LeicJim3a I got back off holiday yesterday and went to start the car and it was doing as you describe, I have no inline filter by the looks of it, Fuel line comes into teh engine bay, to mechanical pump on the block then straight up to the carb..

Where would be a good place to install an inline fuel filter? Im wondering if its worth installing a priming pump like @IanS has done

On 8/2/2023 at 10:39 AM, Sparepart said:

This is an old chestnut. I have picked up lots of scraps of info from this and other forums over the years. In my amalgamated text file I have the following line. 'I' OR 'L' stamped next to number 4 spark plug hole= a leaded head most likely to be 1979 - 1982 in age. Now you are wondering about the age of your engine. Find the engine number stamped on the offside, near the front, should also match the V5 document. It should start with two capital letters. Then look at the attached screen grab from Burton Power to find the month and year of manufacture. For example my engine number has FR (June 1985) .... notice another FR in Oct 1966 .. cant be for a Pinto though. Oh! yes, also this assumes that the cylinder head and block are the original pairing.

My engin number is HU20817 so that would tie up with the doner car being a 1987 Sierra. So there is a good chance that it could be the original head  for the block?

I guess when winter arrives I'll take the head off and inspect to see if inlet ports are round or egg shaped

Sorry @Peter Bell I have only just seen your reply...

Im in Leighton buzzard 

Hi I hope it's okay to post this here? If not please remove. Trying to sell one of my bikes to help fun my project. £3500 ono

2012. I'm the second owner very clean low mileage bike, panniers included. Full advert on ebay

If anyone wants more info just ask. 

4 hours ago, rread97 said:

It’s the same as the 3a but with outboard coilovers

Great thanks. Keep seeing mark 3 mentioned wasn't sure if it was referring to the series 3 or if it was a complete different model

When you say a mark 3 is this the same as the series 3a?