TonySuperSpec

If you can get the straight end into the MT75 you will be doing well.. I bought a 90 degree ford adapter and a custom made cable to length needed from Speedy Cables. If you have yet to fit the drive gear in the MT75 suggest you count teeth and calculate if you have the right one... Lots of variations for MT75 and some had to many teeth meaning the speedo is way too fast and SVA man fails it.. I suffered for three weeks just prior to SVA after a rolling road session 1. getting the supplied gear out without dismantling half the car and 2. trying to source one with far fewer teeth.

The SVA requires that the anti-theft device has a mechanical component... i.e a steering lock is OK but a battery isolator is not..

The RH loom had all the wires why not use most ? Why are you putting in another relay ? The idea of the starter solenoid is that you don't need another relay .. The Wiring from the ignition start position simply energies the starter solenoid... As reards rating are you using thin wall or standard automotive cables. Thin way 2.0 mm cable is rated at 20 Amps which is ample for the solenoid Standard cable you would need 3.0 mm to get > 20 Amps :D

I used a man with a trailer to get to B'Ham He only charged me £30 Saved all the problems with tow bar etc. BUI lasted 4 minutes.... !!!! -_-

If its fine .. will try and be there as well, its a good chance to get the SS out again during the week. Hope the lights work!!! not tried to take it out in the dark yet.. :rolleyes:

Why are you concerned about the ratio ? I have no idea what mine is just finish building it get SVA and enjoy...

Mentioned Your Problem to a mate of mine he suggested that http://www.bluestreak.co.uk/bs/ Unit 5B, Little Oak Drive, Sherwood Park, Annesley, Nottinghamshire. NG15 0DR. Our new phone number is 01623 886470. May be able to help they sorted out his much later MEMS units a while ago. Hope this helps

Not sure if I've given this but look at Visit My Website There is one of my docs there that is the Instrument Cluster wiring :rolleyes:

Seen that but am told its no relevant. What airbag light ? I dont remember tracing out any wiring on the Instrument POD that went to that light ? I managed to get a White and blue ford plug from an old Escort at the scrappy and spiced those into the Loom. The Heritage centre is Heritage A great deal of the Rover archive was transferred to there when it went belly up.. :rolleyes:

No in a word.. Looked at mine and can't see anything ? The only thing I can think of is that the loom is for the turbo version and these have something to do with that .. Had a look at all my Rover details and still can't find any reference to these certainly no reference in the technical manuals to loose Bullet connectors that I can find. I though the Rover Technical CD had all variants but my loom was for an export spare when I finally tracked it down and the colour coding is different to UK models. So that may account for why I can't find it. The Heritage centre does have further reference details but they are sketchy I have still never tracked down the actual build date for my Engine after months of searching. What I have established probably is that RH bought a job lot some 420, 620 and 820 variants some were for UK use and others were export probably as spares. Thats why the sump depth variation occurs, that is mentioned on threads on the site and also why wire colour codes are not consistent Sorry I can't be more helpful :o :o

This is most strange.. I can't quite see from the photo were the wires are / I have wiring diagrams for most Rover installations and I can't see Geen/brown & Green/Yelllow wires that might be in a sleeve anywhere. Can you be more specific about the position. Where does the sleeve branch from this might narrow it down some more. The only loose bit on my loom was a connector coming from the crank sensor and this joined the wires (no idea of there colour to ECU loom ) All I had to do was make a bracket to hold this . From your basic description these wires don't seem to be in the right place. If you look at Visit My Website This has a vey basic ECU connector definition I created to help me plus others to understand the Engine loom needs... :rolleyes:

Hi Mems 1.6 (the ECU supplied ) allows an engine start sequence to complete as far as I am aware . This it seems was the original design criteria. Once a start sequence is seen i.e the crank shaft sensor is active the ECU looks for by interrogation the immobilizer code twocomplete sequences of it, I was told that is a special security signal that comes via pin 13 of the ECU (the one RH had on there diagram cut off) So during this part of the start sequence the engine can catch etc. before the ECU receives the wrong code and locks the engine into a locked condition The timing that allows you to try again is derived by the fact that at ignition off , approx 5 second rime out occurs and the main ECU Relay is turned off. So if you wait 5 seconds or so this drops out the start sequence can be started again. The RH ECU's were supposed to be supplied as either export a null code required so the immobilizer check does nothing, or a test mode this it seems can be selected by some hardware mod but mine had neither so had this fault (As did quite a number of others..) The box of tricks has three leads. 1. Power fed from iginition on 2. An earth 3. A feed to pin 13 of the ECU You take your ECU to them, they code there box and then perform a diagnostic via that silly plug by the ECU input on your engine loom. They have a test rig, this codes the ECU to the box and so the code will allow the engine will run.. :rolleyes:

Are these on the Engine Loom? I have all the Rover Diagrans and Engine Loom wiring is all to connectors. If they are on THe Car Loom whose are you using ?

You think thats tight... With the Rover Engine in a Superspec its scary... The clearance to the sump was very close on the rolloing road at SVA but no comment by the tester..

Have a look at this link...Visit My Website I created these doc's to start the wiring - the interaction of the Engine loom to the car loom plus the instruments etc. Must do somethimg with this site now cars on the road

Thats the symptom of an ECU thats not had the immobilizer mapped out Most SuperSpec owners have had that one. As I mentioned before Avon Automotive Diagnostics Ltd Tel: 01789 450808 Unit 17 Admington La Fm Indust Est, Admington, Shipston On Stour CV36 4JJ Give him a bell he makes the box that can be mapped into the ECU to fix the problem :rolleyes:

Yes the Type 9 and MT75 boxes were fitted to various vehicles with various diff ratios and Tyre sizes. The idea of the drive gear is that it engages with a helical gear and can be made with various number of teeth to provide the correct spped for the cable. Obtaining exact details of the gears is difficult, I had big problems just before SVA after the car was checked on a rolling road and the speedo was far to far out. From what I found out 21,22,23,24 teeth gears are made (or were made for the boxes.) I would try and extract the old one, it comes out by removing the cover bung and gently pressing the shaft end up I used a valve grinder suction type to then pull clear. I was assured that any type 9 or MT75 gear fits any box !!

Hi Silly question have you got the feed and return round the right way ?

Hi.. If you search on these points on the forum you will find that most people have had problems with the ECU etc. I investigated the MEMS system when I had problems getting started.. The Rover EMS Start sequence is.. 1. Ignition on detected 2. MEMS requests ECU RELAY on 3. MEMS detects ECU RELAY on and requests fuel pump on.. 4. Steeper on throttle body advances the pedal position to start 5. Fuel pump off - normally 1=3 seconds later. 6. MEMS looks for immobilizer this should be mapped out but mine and others were not. Starting will then commence by this time the starter motor should have turned the engine over, the crank sensor reports this and MEMS starts to inject and fire the plugs etc. in an open loop control to get the start you want. You can check EMS basic op by ... Ignition on, then fully depress the Accelerator 5 times you should hear the steppers resetting etc. and the fueel relay will turn on and off. You also get problems if the accelerator pedal is set to far open at its rest position, Looking into the air intake with the pedal at reset the butterfly should be closed.. If you think the MEMS is at fault then contact,,, Avon Automotive Diagnostics Ltd Tel: 01789 450808 Unit 17 Admington La Fm Indust Est, Admington, Shipston On Stour CV36 4JJ He sorted mine and supplied the box of tricks that sorted the immobilizer problem Cheers :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Yes I got the bit from RH This was to short and did not fit THe £1 mop bucket was exactly the same shape as the RH supplied bit..

In my superspec made mine from a £1 Mop bucket + a couple of brackets Looks very reasonable... Could be a solution...

Great news and the Sun is shining... Is the Q plate because more than one part is reconditioned ?

Hi hope this gives you some ideas...

I'm in Sutton My Superspec is finished so can give you a hand if you would like help... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Avon will map you an immobiliser fiddle to avoid key fob problem..