Knock-on

Cheers mate. So, the steering and engine is fine but take lots of pics to prove they came from the Donor. I'm going to use new double wishbone suspension with Gaz dampers all round so they will be new, the engine, tranny and diff will all be recon so hopefully that will be enough for an age related plate.

Speaking of another 'Ashley', you can always get a kit and weld it yourself. http://stores.spencerashley.com/manifold-kits/ For example, all the components needed for a 4:2:1 including manifold, downpipes, 4 to 2 collector, pipes and 2 to 1 collector into the silencer pipe will cost £95 for a Zetec. You can then arrange and weld at your leisure. I have one and it's fine.

Just trying to refresh my memory and see if anything has changed recently. What must come from the Donor to get an age related plate? Steering, Engine, Transmission, Diff etc? What about if you have a FWD car and fit a different Transmission and Diff? I'm thinking of doing something interesting and want to avoid a Q.

Has anyone got a mint Black nose cone with the carbon inlay?

Thanks Ian. Deficit in stupidity restored to mere incompetence as per usual Narrow ones the top two. They will clean up a bit but are never going to be mint. The grey / silver on the bottom left seat is cat hair (little bugger)

Seems I'm suffering an overdose of stupidity. How can I post pictures on here? I tried uploading a image from Photobucket shop and the Forum wont let me. I tried posting the link and it doesn't seem to work and the images are bigger than the size allowed on here?

Top set are the wide ones and narrow ones are the second 2. =24332152&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2"]http://s88.photobuck...pg.html?filters[user]=24332152&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2 http://s88.photobuck...pg.html?filters[user]=24332152&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0 http://s88.photobuck...pg.html?filters[user]=24332152&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1

Also a set of new clam wings for sale. £50 ono

OK, here's a few odds and sods. I have 2 sets of bucket seats. Great to fit while building or for a stock or track car but although structurally sound, the covers on both pairs are horrible. Set 1 is normal width with back adjust and cloth covering. Set 2 is narrow with no adjustment and black vinyl covering. Both have no runners and are ugly as sin and require covering to make them look nice £25 a pair. 2nd is a 2.1 Pinto engine. All there but the sump is off and needs a bottom end rebuild. It was a runner but had low oil pressure. £150 VDO 140mph Speedo in good working order but the odometer display doesn't work. If you want a speedo and are not worried about recording mileage (not necessary for MOT) then it's 1/4 price of a new one. £50

Done a bit more research and it seems that Solder is going to be fine if I use a good heatshrink cover. That will make life easier Has anyone thoughts on a good corrosion resistant solder to use?

Just thinking about what connections to use on my home made loom and want to avoid the standard butt connectors as they're rubbish so I have a few options. The first is a non-insulated crimp connector with a heat shrink tube over the top to protect and make waterproof. Then we have 2 shop bought connectors. Has anyone used these type of butt connectors before? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-MIXED-HEAT-SHRINK-SOLDER-BUTT-TERMINAL-THROUGH-CONNECTOR-HEATSHRINK-NO-CRIMP-/310866667333?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET&hash=item486118e745 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-MIXED-HEAT-SHRINK-BUTTS-CRIMPS-WIRING-JOINERS-PK30-/280774696924?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415f79dfdc I would prefer to solder and heat shrink and the joins are great in a static environment but in a car, they can fail under vibration. The first connectors are translucent so it should be easy to check the integrity of the join wouldn't it? The second ones are crimpers but if you crimp them, wouldn't you run the risk of damaging the heat shrink and breaking the water proofing? Anyone any experience with these or other connectors?

All finished with correct mileage (11.5k), Taxed and MOT'd (no advisories). http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=0 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=1 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=2 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=3 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=4 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=5 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=6 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=7 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=8 http://s88.photobuck...html?sort=3&o=9

I have a new set in Surrey.

Update: Odometer sent off to ETB for a replacement with the correct mileage transferred across and MOT passed apart from one bulb I removed So, now I have 10 days to get the Odometer in and present the car back to get the certificate If anyone wants a test drive, it should be MOT'd and Taxed by about Wednesday I expect.

Hi chaps Had checked all fuses, earths etc. Turned out it was a loose wire into the fuse box. All fixed and MOT'd.

1999 build SE Westfield for sale on a Q. I think it's the SEi as indy rear suspension. Engine is a Westfield marked 1600 CVH with Twin Webbers and about 12,000 miles on. This is the XR2 engine I think? Car is very clean with double wishbone front and back, as new disc brakes all around, doors and wet weather gear, Tonneau canopy cover, heater, wipers etc. 5 Team Dynamic wheels with good tyres. I am just about to put a years MOT (when I fix a parking light problem) and 6 months Tax on so it's ready to go. Yellow in colour and pics will be posted at the weekend when I get a chance. It really does drive beautifully and is a really nice example. £6500 Now, the bad point!! The VDO LED odo display on the speedo has failed so it's about to be sent back to UK agent for the mileage to be downloaded and loaded onto a new gauge. I would rather do it this way and pay stupid money to maintain the authenticity of the used mileage against the paperwork. However, it's likely to take a week or two to get an accurate mileage reading. It's still recording apparently but not displaying but seeing as the car has done less than 500 miles per year since 2007, should be pretty accurate at 12k. Everything will be perfect prior to sale. Lots of paperwork and MOT's. Going to leave it on here for a week before chucking it on Fleabay with a £6,500 starting price This is NOT the car but practically identical.

Hi Chaps Quick question on the wiring front. I have a Westie that has a problem with the front left and rear left parking lights not working. Does the feed comes in from the switch to the Right first and then split off to the Left Front and then the Left Rear? Getting to the wiring is a bit of a pain as it's partially enclosed and difficult to get at. My suspicions are that its a break in a wire so am planning to run a spare from the front right parking light feed to the front left and bypass that section which is where the break will be.

Be careful when you tighten the U bolts up when attaching the steering rack to the chassis. I think the Escort one is stronger but the old Sierra one can be easily damaged by over tightening. That's why we made the clamps (and they're never going to fail or work loose).

That wasn't the one I was thinking of but very useful. Pity you cant actually read other peoples reviews though unless I missed it? Surrey Rolling Road near me gets good reviews. Anyone used them? I'm looking for someone with good experience sorting out bike carbed engines with megajolt.

Meguiars is the kiddie for paint. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_804743_langId_-1_categoryId_165527 If it's stainless steel then get the Autosol going and eat some spinach cause you're going to end up looking like Popeye

Silly question but have you checked clamps? UV joint should be very noticeable.

Was there a list of recommended RR operators at one time?

Thanks Martin I havent had time to start yet but one useful tip I noticed on the 3M site was to pre stretch when you're going over any radius edges. That way, when you reheat, it reverts back to it's normal size so covers more evenly and wont shrink. Again, I haven't tried it yet but looking forward to the frustration and swearing!

Is Plymouth even part of England any more? Surely its annexed to Cornwall these days and as such is part of the old Empire and barely remains in the Commonwealth.

Why not pop down to euros and change drums, pads and hydraulic cylinders. Cost me £60 for a 2.0 sierra. Then you know if its something else. Bearings should be fine unless they're damaged during installation. If its a brake noise, then do the above first. Also, is the drum getting warm without use. Take it from cold down a long road without braking and come to a stop on the gears or with as little brake as possible. If it's warm you've either got a sticking return or handbrake not adjusted correctly.