Knock-on

Or this one may be up your street http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1996-FORD-SIERRA-GT-BASE-BLUE-/260755997609?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3cb644c3a9

No. It will be on your cars age related plate and not the engine. Silvertop or Blacktop. You might like to buy a cheap car and chop the rest in for scrap to make your money up. Fine. Depends what flywheel option you go for. Probably 1.8 GBS do some Zetec for the 2B unless you want to move the engine back a bit and reweld the Chassis in which case make your own. As above I would say something like a ZX9 set with a Megajolt is the easiest way. Spiggot and release bearings depending on what you do with Clutch / Flywheel. I suggest using the Pinto Alternator as it's a bit smaller and plenty man enough for a bare Zetec, shortened sump (?), pedals (?), Pinto starter fits Silvertop with small mod to Sump, fuel pump, take the pulleys on and replace the water pump with a reverse direction (escort?) and fit a V wheel for belt. That should be enough to get you started

I have lots of sympathy as I hate taking any paperwork out of it's shiney plastic bag in case it gets mucky. I will try it, try it again, try doing it a different way, ring a mate, moan at the manufacturers and if none of that helps, will break into the protective wrapper

Lovely pics Shafty. Mine love the wind in their face

The cloud you're bouncing on, I suggest sticking your feet through the floor and peddleing it home Flintstone style

So, don't try and hide it. Tell us how you're really feeling Well done. Lot of car there for the money.

I don't see any problem with fitting one but would favour a steel option.

Have a look here http://www.biggles.net/duratec.html

Correct. If it's an expansion tank, it isn't fitted high and he rad cap needs to be able to vent. It's only if it's a Header it needs to be above the engine water level.

Hi Steve Rule of thumb is as high as possible. the bottom of the tank needs to be above the water level in the engine so I suggest the Scuttle.

A fool and his money. What I don't understand is why someone would buy a Kt without checking out the forums. First thing I did about 6 months before I bought mine. Oh well.

I just need to get someone near Camberley to get some dimensions taken by the people that make them. The Caterham prototype I tried was way too small so we need a 2B or Zero. Mine will be back on the road in May so unless someone can help, it will wait till then.

I think the 2WD was on the 205 (and the YB??) but the 4x4 was on a 200. I was not aware that the 205 was any thicker than a 185 but the 200 may be? Not 100% sure. If anyone knows a definitive resource or guide that explains it better, I would be interested in reading up on it.

Hi Nick I think the question is what bits are needed on top of those kits to get a car through IVA. What takes you from a £4500 Zetec kit to the £14000 basic fully built kit.

PML

Hi Gazza You can put as much or as little into building the kit as you want really and it's quite a personal thing. Do you want Carbs or bodies, what dials or digi dash etc but if you go for the Zetec kit, most of the bits you need are there apart from gearbox, diff and TIME. Any additional bits you need you will be able to make your mind up over the course of the build. It's not a weekend job and half the fun is building it from scratch but it will take you quite a few months (depending on how much time you allocate to it). The Zero is not a challenging build and the car you get at the end is very good. You will also find that the Club is a great source of knowledge and help. Fellow inmates (sorry, I mean members) will advise on this site or descend on your house for a home visit. The average Hoodie lives on tea and biccies and can sense a packet of hobknobs being opened from a distance of over 100 miles so bribery with biscuits is highly recommended. I appreciate that the site is slightly confusing as to what you need to complete the build and have made that point but if you want a top class car that goes and handles to a high level, then the Zero way is just about the easiest and most cost effective way. Go for it!!

Hi Sherman Robin Hood do a Weather Kit which I assume fits the Exmo but you might like to join the club and then you can post a wanted ad on this forum. (ps. It pays for itself on the insurance saving alone )

I have a Zero pedal box going spare that has been drilled and painted but never fitted. How much are they new and I'll stick them up for sale if someone wants it @ 75% of new price.

I see he might be up for a swap. I have a 99% completed Fireblade project he might be interested in. Just a good weekends work and it'll sail through. Think I should ask for cash on top as well?

I wasn't aware the blocks were different but am sure I will be told different. Basically, the 205, 185 and 165 were the same block mated up to different capacity and spec top ends. Please don't take this as gospel as I haven't a clue where I know this from but just one of those things you pick up (like the points gap is about the width of a Rizzla card. )

My friend is doing some building in my house and he's is down but mine isn't in the same house? He's on a small business tariff and I'm on a personal one.

Now sold

And some rear tyres with that power. What rubber do you use and I'll take out shares in the company Great result

If anyone followed the debarcle of the Lightweight saga, they will know the lenghts Graham went through and has become the #1 knowledge base on this car. If someone needs a service, I doubt you could do much better.

I can't comment on the Zero because nobody near to Camberley has been able to get one fitted but I assume it will be pretty similar to the 2B. I don't think these things are accurate to within a thou of an inch With weatherproof or durability, again I cannot comment as I haven't seen them yet