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nigelt

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Everything posted by nigelt

  1. nigelt

    Chassis Number

    Thanks for that.. I have looked up which letters/numbers you can't use but can't remember off top of my head. Will have to google it again. Cheers Nige
  2. nigelt

    Chassis Number

    Hi Guys, Just a little confused here. Do I make up the Chassis number and present it to DVLA/IVA or do I get the number from the DVLA first? IVA paper work suggests that I get one from the DVLA, but I seem to remember somewhere on here that you make it up yourself? Also while I'm at it the IVA paperwork mentions that I should have some document about the fuel tank. I got mine with the kit so have no such document. Is this actually required? Cheers Nige
  3. nigelt

    Missing Receipt

    Hi Everyone Me again... I am missing the receipt for my 2B kit, all I have is the bit of paper ageeing the date for picking up the kit. Now this was 10 years ago (I know.. I know... what have I been doing all those years!) However, GBS don't hold copies that far back so no luck in that direction. Just how important is this receipt for the IVA? Cheers Nige
  4. nigelt

    Almost Ready For Iva

    Thanks Alan... that is good news Nige
  5. nigelt

    Almost Ready For Iva

    Thanks Steve, I was hoping to try that.. I realy didn't wan't to make a new dashboard and steering mount just for the sierra wheel. All my warning lights are in a cluster from a triumph dolomite in the center-ish so well out of the way of the wheel. Nige
  6. Hi Guys, I'm almost ready for the IVA but have a couple of issues I would like to clarify. First, I took a Thatcham rated imobiliser off of one of my old cars as it was faulty (Fixed it) and then decided to fit it to the 2B. All nicely wired in just as it was on the Mondeo, so you cant tell how and where the wires go etc. However, as I wired it in myself, is this going to cause me problems with the IVA? Has anyone else tried this or fitted some sort of imobiliser pre-IVA? Second is that old story of the steering wheel. If I fit the original Sierra wheel I can just about get in and have very little room between it and my legs. This seems worse than if I stick with the Mountney wheel that came with the kit. Has anyone else found this a problem and if so what was the simplest cure? Cheers Nigel
  7. If you are using the original smiths gauges then you will find that there are three connections for the temperature gauge. Although this may not be obvious, as one of the connections is the body itself. This would need to be earthed. The terminal marked 'B' would go to the stabliser and the terminal marked 'T' to the temperature sender. The original smiths temperature gauge uses a moving magnet armature and so requires a biasing current to get it off the starting block (so to speak) This is where earthing the casing comes into it. If anyone wants the internal workings or diagram then let me know and I will attach a diagram. The problem you may run into is getting it to read a high enough value when the engine is hot, as it needs to be matched to the sender or a bit of electronics is needed. Nige
  8. Have you got any photos? It could be a hairline crack in the metal pipes that come out of the sender. It could be, if you have used rubber pipe comming off the sender, that this pipe is not sealing or is not fuel grade. Photos would help Nige
  9. You could try using a bigger wattage bulb for the charge light as a test. I found that when I first put it all together the battery charge light would not provide enough energy to excite the alternator. If I used a headlamp bulb it started charging. Now I'm not suggesting you use a headlamp bulb all the time, but this will indicate a problem in that area of the wiring. It maybe a bad connection on the alternator (Enough for the charge light to light up but not enough to generate the excite current in the Alternator). This would also be a problem if the charge light is an LED. Once I had cleaned all the connections and got a good grounding the alternator worked fine with the normal bulb. Nige
  10. nigelt

    Cuts Out

    Before you go off and purchase another coil. You might want to check the quality of the spark once the engine has cooled down. Just to be sure there is a difference between the spark. If its yellow when hot and cold it maybe a red herring. My bet is on an earthing issue as Simon has said. Nige
  11. Thanks Les, I missed that bit.. I will give it a go. Nige
  12. Hi Guys, I thought I would have ago at the do-it-yourself quick shift lever from an earlier posting. But I am having great trouble getting into reverse. I need to hands to push the lever down. Could it be that the spacer on the top is not thick enough or too thick? Any ideas/suggestions Thanks Nige
  13. Have you checked to see if you have a blocked exhaust. Sounds strange, but had this with the wifes car. I checked everything I could think of with no success. Gave it to the local garage and they discovered the back box was blocked. Nige
  14. Here you go here is how to do it. The two diodes back to back will not allow current to pass when using left and right indicators. However, one the Hazard switch is closed both diodes will conduct driving both left and right and the warning lamp at the same time. Hope that helps Nige
  15. Hi Plugy, You will need a couple of diodes to do this. I will draw diagram tonight when I get home, as I have no way to get it posted up wher I am at the moment. Nige
  16. I did something similar as sadjagboy. I used some 8mm threaded rod which I sleaved with steel tube. I mounted the Siera handbrake through the tubes of the tunnel. However, I tilted the handbrake forward by making the threaded rod and sleave longer at the back. This then kept the handbrake low and out of the way when disengaged. Also be carefull how far back you mount it. My first attempt was to far back and as the wife wants to drive the car (I know... I know..) when the seat is moved forward you would have to dislocate your arm to pull the handbrake on/off Nige
  17. It will also depend on how the bonnet is going to fit. Are you sticking with the Crocodile opening or are you cutting the bonnet to create a scuttle. The Firewall dog legs as it crosses from the driver side to the passanger side. It starts off in front of the peddle box and ends up behind the Battery box/location. In other words it move away from the front of the bonnet. As the bonnet slops upwards and the fire wall is basically a rectangle, there will be a good inch to two inch gap between the firewall and the bonnet where the firewall goes around the back of the battery area. I added additional sheet metal to close this gap, but had I realised earlier I would have re-manufactured the firewall. Hope that makes sense Nige
  18. I guess that makes me an odd ball builder... I too have been wondering what to do about the bite point of the clutch, which is far too low at the moment. This thread has given me a range of ideas on how to raise it.. Thanks Nige
  19. nigelt

    Rover Engine

    Hi Steven, Could be a sticking/faulty Idle Control Valve. Which maybe a stepper motor type or just a linear motor that just has a varing voltage applied to open/close the apature. Could try un-pluging it from the ECU. Nige
  20. Here is another one showing more detail around the fuse boxes and the cable splitting into four Nige
  21. Pictures as promised... The first picture shows two arrows. The left one shows the original starter and charge wire and the right arrow shows the big fat jump lead I used. Nige
  22. The way I did it was to get a length of Jump lead, (which when all the strands are twisted together is too fat to fit into most connectors) and split it into four twisted strands at one end and these then fed into a 10 way 30A choc block. I could then take the other side of the choc block to the fuse box and also extend the number of connections. I will try and post a picture tonight.. Nige
  23. I thought that type of instrument would not be allowed through the SVA/IVA due to its sharp! edges? Nige
  24. Thanks Coops222, must have looked at that website a dozen times and not noticed that! Cheers Nige
  25. Hi, Do you need to be a member of the GBS web-site to be able to buy stuff from them? As I can't see where to go on their site. Thanks Nige
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