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About dandanfireman

  • Birthday 04/19/1978

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2b
  • Full name
    Daniel Hall

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Royston Herts
  • Interests
    Kit Cars, Property Development, Surveying.

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dandanfireman's Achievements

Wheely good builder!

Wheely good builder! (4/6)



  1. This appears to have come at the right time, i'm just about to remove and rebuild my rear end on my cortina based S7 and was wondering what the 5 link parts are actually from and where i would go about getting new bushes etc.
  2. Hiya just found this thread is that of an s7? Thats an awesome job there.
  3. After all that i found the wiring lying in the transmission tunnel anyway so should be an easy job that would be nice for a change
  4. Well thats fantastic i shall check that and if removed run a new wire from fuse 5, thanks tractor i've got quite a few splices on switched parts of my loom so just wanted to try it the right way first lol that will help me loads tomorrow cheers
  5. Ah ok thanks, any idea where the original black wire originated from on the loom? Just trying to figure out where it might be taped off. Thanks though that gives me an idea of whats going on.
  6. The smith gauges should come with a wiring diagram or at least a link to the car http://www.caigauge.com/ Caerbont Auto should still have all the wiring diagrams thats where i got my details from. +ve feed is from the voltage regulator/stabiliser the other point on the gauge is for daisy chaining one gauge to the other continuing the regulated voltage supply along the chain. They are all earthed via the lightbulb connector which makes a huge surface area for earth. Thats the wiring done, then make sure you have the right senders for the relevant gauges (temp and oil maybe fuel). I'm reiterating some info already said which is spot on just covering some bits i needed to know.
  7. Check the connections to the indicators nearest the indicators as over time the wires can corrode and or snap depending on age of car. Check connections for lights for the indicators on the dash aswell and then if that doesn't work remove the multi-connectors for the stalks and spray with WD40 or similar and use the indicators back and forth. If that doesn't sort it start checking for poor earths.
  8. Hi guys, just getting round to fitting a set of reverse lights i've had for 10 years or so lol. I believe the type9 sensor is a switched live affair? running fused from the ignition or somewhere, mine was clearly not destined for that but has anyone got a clue what colour the wire would be that originally fed the sensor? I have an old sensor plug but it may not be the same loom (its black one one wire and black with a blue stripe on the other). Any help would be appreciated, or alternated methods of fitting if its easier Thanks guys
  9. Thanks guys for the help, things have changed since i first rebuilt the S7 in 2003 there were no upgrades apart from the Princess 4 pot back then. The brakes have always been fine for my driving though so i'll keep them as they are i reckon, just with pistons that actually move lol. Big red pistons it is.
  10. Hi guys turns out the pistons in my type 16's are all corroded and they are really not fit for refurb. Any ideas where to get decent price replacements?
  11. I'll have a look but i'm pretty sure the unit has a +12v feed and an earth. The part i'm talking about is the pulse lead that runs from the coil -ve. I'll check the smith instruments but i think thats ok. Sorry for any confusion.
  12. Its an efi pinto running a standard ford motorparts electronic dizzy. The coil -ve is spliced and then runs through the back of the 1600gt tacho and back to the coil again. Unsure if there is anything further back on the loom that could be a suppressor. Its currently reading around 3000 rpm at idle.
  13. Hi guys any ideas how to lower the revs on a standard pulse tacho thats from a 1600 crossflow to that of a 2000 ohc pinto? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Dan
  14. Hi guys been a while, i've put a new rad in the Robin Hod which has no header built in. The only thing left is the original air bleed off point which i will now use as the filler . Any idea on a remote header tank for it? Not looking to go pressurised just staying standard.
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