Andy Cook

Oil in a sump has to do two things: Be high enough to be sucked up by the pick up pipe, Be low enough not to touch the crankshaft. This is what the two marks are for on a dipstick. Assuming you haven’t shorted your pick up pipe (or lowed your crankshaft) these marks should remain the same. Andy

PM Sent

Hi all, Has anyone got a wiring diagram, for the Super-Spec wiper motor? This is the transit one supplied new with the kit. I think the diagram that came in my kit is for the sierra motor. Thanks, Andy

I gave him the cars registration, engine number and VIN number. However, I think he would be able to do a search with just the engine number. Andy

I got a proof letter from this guy, jonathan.bell@gm.com when I did mine 18 months ago. Some people have got through tests without one, but when I went to Newcastle it was the only proof they would accept. Be warned though this letter isn’t free (far from it in fact). Hope this helps, Andy

From my own experience, it is nigh on impossible to restore original shine, once a panel has been attacked by the mops. If you have one or two small scratches then it might be doable. Use the softest mop and soap you can, and keep the polishing area as small as possible, don’t let it spread all over a panel and don’t let it get too hot. I stated using a drill but the bearings soon gave up as they are not designed for side pressures. I then switched to a 4” grinder which IMO was way too fast, vibrated incredibly, and put far too much heat into the panel. Personally I would recommend painting, as I have now done, or strategically placed stickers. Andy

Mine was £25

Cheers Guys Andy

Hi all, Thinking about painting some of my stainless panels. Anyone have experience with this? I assume a good flat down and etch primer for starters, anything else? Never been happy with the finish on the stainless (scratches so easily doesn’t it) Thanks Andy

I’m with Fluxy, around £350 for me. (21 years old, no NCB). My old 1.2 corsa with 2 years NCB was £450 last year. Most companies will offer around a 15% discount to club members so for us young ones its well worth joining. Andy

Thanks Guys, Andy

Afternoon all, Need to get the tin top in the garage for some repairs so I’m looking for a cover to throw over the hood wile its outside. It doesn’t have to be monsoon proof, as it will only be out during the day. But wants to look tidy and be a desent fit. Just wondering what anyone else uses. Thanks, Andy

No, I fitted the ETB sender from new; the tank came with the larger hole precut. Andy

This is how I did mine. The additional plate between the sender and tank is required as the existing hole in the tank is too big. The fuel pipe runs through this and towards the middle of the tank. You may need a return as well depending on your setup. I have had no problems so far, the fuel gauge works fine. I am happy with the ETB clocks they appear excellent quality and were a doddle to wire in. Andy

IMO the Tiger Avon manual is a better bet than the Ron Champion book, but neither will help you hugely.

Thanks, I’ll try turning the advance back a bit. Mike, I believe all Redtops fall into the same category of, Co2 3.5% Hydrocarbons 1200ppm No need to tell your MOT man that Andy

Hi all, Still having problems with my emissions. (Redtop on 45s). Got it booked in for another session on the machine. As I understand it, making the carbs run leaner should help. Is there anything else I could try? Perhaps ignition timing? (Currently 16 degrees at idle) There is also a vacuum take off on the dizzy which I haven’t connected up. I would greatly appreciate any advice, as this is the last hurdle before passing SVA. Andy

Evening all, SVA retest today, all problems sorted apart from emissions still being too high. Bit surprised at this as I had it in a garage and it scraped trough, but today they were well high. (CO2 6%, HCs also very high). I’m running the Redtop on 45s (set up as per Dave Andrews manual) and a dizzy and coil from a caviler set to 16 degrees advance at idle. The engine runs well with a steady idle at 800rpm and a smooth pick up. Any thoughts? Andy

Hi Harvs, Its 3mm thick and is angle most of the way along (just out of shot). Hope this helps, Andy

The later super-specs came with a full bar but I also needed to fit some angles so that it bolts to the chassis not just the flour pan. Shouldn’t be too much work. Andy

Right hand threads tighten clockwise (most common). Left hand threads tighten anticlockwise. Andy

Another great mag, well done.

I used the supplied mirrors. They are positioned as follows, Drivers side, 220mm up from scuttle base, 170mm in from scuttle rear Passenger side, 230mm up, 170mm in Centre - Stuck directly to scuttle top to give best view between seats. My tester said it was the first Robin Hood he had passed with the standard mirrors. When adjusting them, set them to see over the rear wings as apposed to round them. Hope this helps, Andy

Give GBS a ring and tell them which engine you plan to fit they can then advise you on what chassis mods you will need and build the chassis to suit. As mentioned the only problem areas may be the plough tube and the pedal box. Do your research before you commit. The redtop is both a little harder to fit and possibly more expensive than the zetec due to the bellhousing and clutch arrangement. Here’s some good reading material. http://nw.rhocar.org/engineswop.htm http://westfield-world.com/xeinstall.html http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Main.htm The redtop is a great engine; you won’t look back once you’ve got it going. Andy

I’m getting confused I thought slight “toe in” helped with self centering? This was one of my fail points at SVA despite having 35psi in the fronts. Can someone clarify? Andy