megadodo

"You were lucky" when I were a lad living in London "I had to lick the motorway clean before breakfast", no seriously, I had no garage and had to do all the car maintenance 2 floors below the flat in whatever weather was going. I've rebuilt a cavalier engine on a wall beside the car! I had to string 2 extension leads together to get power to the car. Them wert days!

Just read the first post more closely "09.00, leaving at 09.45 latest to have a 35 mile run to Kimbolton" I'm afraid that from the black cat to Kimbolton is only about 10 miles unless you have a very convoluted route worked out to go via?

You've either burned yourself on your exhaust or your a liar! Sounds familiar????

It must be catching! I popped out yesterday for a drive to the local club meet and she just died on a roundabout! She wasn't hot, no warning lights, just died! Couldn't see anything wrong, unplugged and plugged back in a few ignition connections, still nothing! Just about to call Green flag 5 minutes later and thought 1 more go and she started, fine for the rest of the journey there and back? Still can't see what the issue was?

ETA for IVA?

Throttle bodies and injection are not that much more than a new pair of webers although the sound of well set pair of 45s sucking in all that air still give me goose bumps!

Looking good, not too "busy" either! I'm always torn between information overload and the "clean" look. Or are you putting in some more dials? I'm still thinking about whether or not to add volts, oil pressure and oil temperature!

Is you tank vented or is the vent blocked? If not it could be causing a vacuum making it difficult for the pump to deliver fuel to the engine. Are your fuel lines getting hot leading to vaporisation, same with the fuel pump? 95 with a pressurised coolant system is fine by the way. What fuel pump are you using?

If the weather holds I'll see you at the little chef at 9, it'll make my route longer, but what the hell isn't this what kit cars are all about??

I think the engine breaking away from the gearbox has absorbed a fair bit of energy!!!

Why does this sort of stuff never come up when I want to buy something!!!!!! Wish I could get some rear end measurements!

You only get a q plate if the donor parts are from all over the place. When you have your BUI at the DVLA they will check to see if the engine and other bits "match" your declaration form and are from the type of donor you have declared, then you'll get an age related plate. The moment they have a doubt about the components then you may get a q plate. My inspector (2 weeks ago) said that he very rarely gave a q plate to a kit car these days.

I get it on Google Chrome every so often and on my iPad (Safari I'm guessing?), but never noticed it on Explorer if that helps Mat-Moo?

Today was a blast. I tweaked the springs a bit more and increased the damping and its better, but with 2 up this morning she was still "smacking her arse" on the road on rough bits still. I tweaked the speedo sensor as well, it now works and above 70 too! Early afternoon I went to see Feek's build and was treated to tea & biccies and a chin wag, many thanks Feek! On the way home I gave her some stick in straight lines and corners and I can't shift the grin from my face, brilliant!!! :D You learn some new everyday though, always wear sun screen in an open car, boy, are my arms burnt!

I've got the Gaz coil overs at the rear so I'll "tweak" the damping up as you suggested and try again. I'm sure the damping is set fully anti clockwise front and rear. Any suggestions for the front (Gaz coil overs as well)? Cheers in advance.

For the bulb to work we must have 12 volts across it. You have 12 volts to the switch (hazards work don't they?) and you say you have checked the ground wire to the switch? So the problem must be the switch itself or the bulb (could be a 24volt one, but it's more likely I'll be buying the first round in a pub!!!) Either swap the whole switch assembly for another one or change the bulb are your only options if live and ground are present. My money is still on the earth not being sound!

OK, so my 2B is banging it's rear sub frame on the floor over dips and bumps. What's the best thing to do, NOT over tension the springs and just increase the damping? How is that done on a GAZ, clockwise or anti and how many "clicks" have people got on theirs? The front doesn't bang but the wheels do move up & down a lot, or is that just that I can actually see them working? What's the consensus on settings them veryone, and don't say buy a Zero!

Despite bending the bracket back I stll have no speedo, needs a bit work methinks, I hope the head isn't damaged!!! Having bled the brakes through today (no caliper leak so far) I took her out for a blast and she needs yet more rear spring stifness!!! Timbo, I think I need your help!!??

Many congratulations to the three of you! Get used to sleepless nights from now on!

Welcome to the mad house! It's a fun place to be and there is a wealth of information on here and people full of .......... Ideas! Do buy a Zero, you won't be disappointed!

Plastic tubing of the right size can be pushed over the bulb to help remove it, but unless you know whether its a push or bayonet fitting it still may be awkward to get out.

If the cobra seats are the standard ones they sell on the site for around £150 then the GBS runners do fit them.

First of all you need to determine whether its the sender or the gauge. Use a DMM to measure the senders resistance to ground. If that fluctuates its faulty, if not, it's your gauge. Have you wrapped the sender in too much PTFE tape so it's not grounding to the block properly?

How did you get on, or is it today after the date confusion?

Rear caliper now rebuilt (once I have got some more silicone brake fluid I'll bleed the system (again!) and see if the leak has gone). The speed sensor bracket appears to have been bent about an inch away from its original position??? Even if the prop shaft had moved enough to catch the sensor head I wouldn't have expected it to move that much? I'll make a new bracket to move the sensor to a position that will hopefully means that the speedo works above 70 mph!