ozz

I think if I was going down this route I'd spend a bit more and get one with a heart rate monitor to see how much I was scaring myself!

Hi Tom

Fronts are longer than rears, mine are now fitted so can't easily measure rears but the temp struts I used when building are 13 inch front and 11 inch rear as advised by GBS.

Ozz

How do they undo?

Ozz

Matte black

I kept my V5 and SORNed the sierra every year until the kit was registered.

When the kit was registered the V5 went off and scrapped the donor meaning I didn't have to SORN it any more.

Ozz

They are coming off, want to retain the Stainless Steel look, but not with rivets!

I bet some or all of these tools may come in useful

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Windscreen-Removal-Tool-Set-Bonded-Windscreen-Tools-Urethane-Cut-Back-Tools-/221159913191?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item337e2876e7

i dont have one for sale, but might help with your search if you specify what width your current diff is and what ratio you want

 

cheers, steve

Size will not matter as the zero chassis will take both (less spacer for larger diff).

Ozz

When I was first thinking of a kit car I decided to build a Haynes Roadster bought the book, a welder and a Chassis kit, then Scottie686 posted pictures of his Zero on the Haynes forum with a reference to this club and everything changed.

I bought my kit at Newark 08 and signed on here in July 08 and have been paid up every year since.

I've never met Scottie686 but he inspired by choice of build and lead me to this club.

I think he deserves this one and If I came to this club today and read this thread I think I'd move on.

Ozz

Yes you do need insurance to register (you'll need insurance to Tax it and that is part of the process).

Adrian Flux insured mine on chassis number initially but I didn't ask if it would have been cheaper on a reg number.

I didn't need my own insurance though as GBS registered mine for me using their traders policy.

Although my V5 now shows GBS as a former keeper that might be a good thing though.

https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/new-registrations

Ozz

A couple of these would look good with your rocker cover

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-heater-hose-support-hose-bracket-Chevy-Chrysler-Dodge-Ford-Pontiac-/321074090959?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ac181d3cf

Ozz

Is there anyone in Sheffield with a large socket and brace to fit the hub nuts on the rear that I could borrow? Do you know if they both undo in the normal direction, or is one side a left handed thread? Cheers.

I could take mine to Worksop for you if there's not one closer

Ozz

Thanks Ozz.

Good news, what about brake pipes caliper end and where it goes through body panel

The smaller tifosi nut cover hole drilled in the top cut on one side and super glued pm me your address ill send you some.

Is this the part you are looking for?

If so its yours.

Ozz

Thinking about it again the coil over is within the exempt area specified in the manual (extract below).

So that's why my nut cover was not there.

I was referring to the damper setting knob not the adjuster nut ..... doh.

Ozz

Looks like an engine lifting eye. Normaly hangs in the shed and is fitted on the exhaust studs when you want to lift the engine out. The builder has used it to provide a support for a bolt up a hose support/retainer.

 

Nigel

Its the hose support/retainer I might have (I'm keeping my lifting eyes hanging in the shed).

Ozz

I used a nut cover from Tifosi the smooth tapered ones that go on when warm cut down to cover the adjuster.

It went with the covers on but came back without!

http://www.tifosi.homecall.co.uk/Thread%20screw.html

Ozz

Hi, it's under the manifold now - what to raise it up!

I don't know what it is called but I think I've still got one in my box of sierra bits, I'll check tonight If you PM me your address I'll send it or could drop it off next time I'm passing.

Ozz

Had another thought on my zero I can remove the whole hub by undoing the four bolts that hold it to the hub carrier the drive shaft then slides out.

Only needed to remove the big nut to do the bearings.

Don't know if the 2b is the same.

Ozz

I got mine from Allwoods in Newark with a 3 foot bar.

You are welcome to borrow it (them) although with the price of petrol or postage you may be able to get your own.

Ozz

Took the zero to Russ at Torquetune for Carb set up. What a great bloke I learned a lot today from him.

Well my tired 2.0 pinto on STD injection cam and Ford bosh dizzy and the injection ecu with zx6r carbs GBS manifold and gbs exhaust made 110 at the wheels.

I'm well chuffed with that I was expecting 70!

I then broke down (again) on the way home. The little plug on the alternator had worked loose and I ran out of electric.

Managed to push it to hill and bump start it.

Zeros make good scooters.

Ozz

Mine went through Iva with the Ford bolt loctited and marked with white paint ( by Simon at GBS) but he would have preferred the lock nut method and I will be updating to this standard soon.

I presume two roll pins front and back of the hub carrier for safety or is it one right through?

To zeroknowledge

Thanks for the pic.

Ozz

Believe a 2p piece is the "washer without a hole" item that's required.

I've got a 1970 5p piece on my desk only 2mm smaller and would be more in keeping with your theme.

re-thinking my above post.

Build wheels are a good idea if you don't have the money for your final wheels (which I didn't) or are clumsy and don't have much space (like me).

If your going to the scrappy for wheels get the ones from a peugeot/citroen not a sierra as ET15 is the peugeot offset with the same bolt pattern as ford. (I think that's right).

so there's more options to think about.

Ozz