ibrooks

The box you are looking for is a type-9. They were fitted to Sierras, Granadas late Cortinas and I think Transits (although Transits had a different gearchange linkage so aren't a straight swap). You need to get one from a 4-cylinder car as there was also a V6 version which is mostly the same but with a different bell-housing and longer input shaft so it won't fit your engine easily. It was replaced later by the MT75 which is a stronger box but it's bulkier and probably won't fit in your car and you will have to do some serious work to a Pinto for it to find the limits of a type-9. Props were probably standard when the kit was built i.e. you told Robin Hood Engineering whether you wanted a 4-speed or 5-speed prop in your kit. Whether GBSC in it's current form has the data and could/would make one for you or not is one you would have to ask them. There are however many places that will make up props and the combination on a Robin Hood is going to be a common one so if you tell them what the axle and box are and how far apart the nose of the diff and output shaft of the gearbox are they should be able to knock one up in no time for sensible money. There were relatively recent posts where people had got replacement props due to failures of the ones seemingly supplied by one of the incarnations between RHE and GBSC (the consensus was that they had used some cheap tube to make them that wasn't up to the job if you were running anything more than standard Pinto power). No doubt there will be some recommendations for prop companies and guesstimate prices in there. Iain

Given that they are useful it might be worth seeing if a bit of duct tape over the end of it would muffle it to a more useable level first rather than removing it altogether. Usually they are a piezo buzzer and you can make a huge difference by just covering the holes on the front and gain some degre of adjustable volume by partially covering it. Iain

It's definitely an MG ZT 260. Or at least it was.... the 260 could be a bit of a misnomer as the blower and extra valves will presumably up that somewhat. Engine is from a hotter Mustang than the original one that Rover fitted. Could also be a ZT-T 260 - difficult to tell from just the engine-bay though. Iain

No necessarily - the S7 is one of the older Hoods so it could quite feasibly have been on the road before it became a requirement. It could also have been on the road but still described as a Cortina/Sierra and someone decided to sell it as a "project" because they didn't like the idea of having to go through the registration process themselves. Iain

When I worked for Asda they did a big refit on the petrol station and one of the things they fitted was some sort of fancy gizmo in the tanks that told them how much water was in there. It was about the only area of the store that I didn't work in for any length of time but the impression I got was that an amount of water was expected and if it went beyond a certain threshold they would do something about it. Don't know what the threshold is/was and what they would do though. Iain

So go-on spill the beans on where it was.... After all - your local petrol station is probably my local station too. Cravens Brow? Iain

Nope - they make one that locks it in place for SVA. IVA specifically states that this method is no longer acceptable. qwerty, Have a look at this. IVA Manual I'd suggest taking a copy as they keep mucking around moving it despite having said from day one that it would be available online. I'm some way off actually needing this as I have another little project on the go at the moment which is likely to take my time until April-ish. The problem with finding the "right" valve is that all our cars are different. Some have rear dics, some have drums, there are different sizes of front discs (and rears). In the case of my car it will be 4wd (and also have in excess of 200bhp under the loud pedal which is yet another reason I really want to get this right). This is why we really need something adjustable. Iain

In my case because I don't want the viscous couplings knackered. That one aside there's also the issue of how to get it there bearing in mind that this needs to be done pre IVA and if it's not right and we can't use an adjustable valve of some sort what do I do? and how many trips is it going to take? I've removed the bias bar from my pedal box and replaced it with a solid bar with circips in machined grooves to keep it central. The ends are turned down and threaded enough so that the rose-joints on the end of the master cylinder pushrods can be held on with a nyloc so I know I've got even effort from each master and I think I'm going to split the pipe from each between one front and the diagonally opposite rear so I'll need to limit two lines accurately to the same degree. Smartfazer - that's the type of thing that a Rover Metro has in the lines to the rear. Assuming it limits to the right pressure then yes it would be pefect but there's no way for us to know whether it would work on a much shorter and lighter car. I was also hoping to stick with the rear discs on mine so I wonder if it would have the same degree of effect as it would on a drum? although I do have a set of stub axles to allow use of the drums with an LSD. Given the price though I might just buy a couple of those and go down the suck-it-and-see route to see if they do the job (wonder which way around they go?). Should solve any posible problems of keeping the limit on the rear pressure equal though. Iain

Yes you can tweak the operation of the inertia valve a little in this way but you have only altered one part of the system - what I'm getting at is that it works by a ball moving forwards under inertia as the car decelerates. Thing is you haven't changed the mass of the ball and I think there's a spring that holds it back under normal circumstances which also hasn't been altered. To get the setting "right" for your car it might well be that you need the same angle as the original in the Sierra but with a lighter ball and a different spring. I assume the tester tested it by hitting the brakes outside in the car-park and the front brakes lock first? In the wet or dry? and would it have done the same thing. If the brakes were applied whilst cornering would it perform in the same way that it does in the Sierra? (even pointing north-south it will be affected by lateral forces). Unfortunately I can't use the inertia valve as easily as I am going to be running twin master-cylinders with each braking one front and one rear wheel. On the plus side though I also have permanently engaged 4 wheel drive so they won't be testing it on the rollers anyhoo. Iain

OK guys this one has been bothering me and I haven't heard or seen any clever answers from the industry yet so I thought I'd throw it in here to see what leaps out. It's one where most of us don't really have a method of testing ourselves and yet one of the safety critical areas where I absolutely agree with the need for the test to be stringent (again partly because it's something you can't test yourself). I thought the SVA method was fairly sensible whereby they would let you set it up on their kit and then lock the settings off in some way. IVA however is a little different here and I don't think it's a step in the right direction. Balance bars - basically have become un-workable. The manual says that they must be rendered permanently un-adjustable and specifies that you would have to weld the threads along their entire length. Not really something you can do at the station after setting it on their rollers and I'm simply not happy with putting that much heat into the components involved. There's also the issue that it renders it impossible to take the thing apart to replace components at a later date which could be construed as a failure on the part that specifies that everything must be accessible for maintenance. Different bore master/slave cylinders or pistons. This one is somewhat hit and miss and whilst every conceivable combination available would probably give you the necessary level of adjustment it's going to be pricey to fit one setup, test and then buy a different size caliper/master cylinder/piston and try again. Pressure limiting valves - now this is the sensible option (and the one the big manufacturers tend to use) since as long as you are in the right ball-park one of these should enable you to get the balance spot-on. However the inspection manual is downright contradictory on these. It says Hydraulic valves that only operate automatically and react to vehicle loading or braking forces are permitted (Load Sensing and Gravity valves) Manually adjusted valves (other than to permit presetting the automatic function of a valve) are not permitted to be fitted even if they are rendered un-adjustable. Now that would provide for the Sierra inertia valve (although when I put the 2B through SVA the tester ignored the one I had in and failed it for too much rear braking effort anyway). It would also allow for the type on an Escort van where there is a lever on the rear axle to alter it's operation according to the ride-height (it assumes the ride-height is related to load on the axle). Both of these have been set for pretty specific operation parameters and for us to start trying to tweak them further for our cars is a bit daft and the results are going to be all over the place. These things react in a progressive fashion that's designed for the weight and centre-of-gravity of the car they came from - we are unlikely to be anywhere near these so even if it's right on the rollers it might be lethally wrong elsewhere. So I'm thinking that leaves the conventional bias valves - and that's where I see the contradiction. In the vast majority of cases these allow a maximum pressure in the rear brake line. The idea is that if you are below the pressurelimit in the system then you aren't prodding the pedal so hard and there isn't going to be enough weight transfer off the rear wheels to allow them to lock with the applied pressure. The set maximum is set at the point where the braking applied to the front wheels would allow enough weight transfer from the rears to risk their locking. When this pressure is reached the valve operates and stops any further increase in rear braking no matter what happens elsewhere in the system. The rules say they are not permitted except where they pre-set the automatic function - surely the type I've described above all pre-set an automatic function. My understanding is that so long as I'm not messing with it whilst driving then it has been pre-set and it's function is from there on automatic. A Rover Metro/100 for example has two pressure limiting valves in the lines to the rear brakes which give a fixed limit based on the pre-load of a spring inside it. So am I right in thinking that a bias valve is just the same (so long as it's not adjustable whilst driving and therfore I have to pre-set it). Any thoughts or other clever ways of complying with this one? Anyone had trouble with it and IVA yet? I hesitate to say any ways of getting around it but I suspect that's what most people would in reality be thinking and the people coming up with this legislation need to be thinking along the lines of giving us ways to comply or people will start looking for ways to avoid. Anyone friendly with a tester who can give their take on it? (wasn't there a tester on here briefly? did we frighten him off?). Iain

That's right but the same is true of the electrolysis method - the electrolyte (the soda) will also be consumed in the reaction. You could always try getting hold of acetic acid from a catering supplies place - they mix it with water (and possibly other stuff) for table vinegar. Tends to be called non-brewed condiment. You also get acetic acid for use in industrial applications but that's a dodgy area as it is mucho corrosive in it's concentrated form - if you stick to catering "strength" stuff you should be fairly safe. Table vinegar is around a 5% solution I think and yes pickling vinegar is stronger. Iain

I think so too - I'd made very certain that they were visible at all extremes of steering lock from the required angles. It also seemed contradictory since he was quite happy with the repeaters on the outer edge of the cycle wings. But since the failure list was so short I just kept schtum and put a set from a Suzuki GSXR (I think) on the nosecone for the retest. This is why I've suggested speaking to the local test station as hopefully they'll at least be consistent within the station. Iain

Won't the new carb fit on the old manifold? there aren't that many variations. Failing that people do hack combined cast ones apart to get intake and exhaust seperated - it's almost impossible to get the two parts seperate intact so usually people use two manifolds and destroy one part of each manifold to leave a good exhaust from one and a good intake from the other. If you're planning to stick with the 998 a freeflow manifold is better than an LCB too as it keeps the exhaust gas velocity up. They usually pop up cheap on ebay but you do get the occasional one at silly money so check what it would cost new at Minispares or Minisport so you know you aren't paying over the odds. Iain

Yes but the stuff left over is mega nasty from a health and safety and disposal point of view. Iain

Definitely multi-meter time. If a battery has been left discharged for this sort of time then it's likely dead. OK you've fitted a known good one and still have no electrics but I'd suggest this simply shows an additional problem - it certainly doesn't confirm the original battery is still good. So..... Multi-meter on voltage setting stick the probes on the battery terminals and see if there is anything there. Assuming you're getting 12+Volts then there is enough to at least do some fault finding. The main cable from the battery to the starter should be permanently live so stick the negative probe on the battery negative terminal and the positive on the main terminal of the starter - you should show the same voltage as doing it on the battery direct. Now move the negative terminal to some bare metal on the engine (a head bolt is a good candidate but you'll probably have to scratch some oil/rust off to make contact). You should again see close to the same voltage - if not then try for some bare metal on the chassis/body (the stainless usually has a clear coat so scratch the surface somewhere out of sight if there isn't an instant reading). I'm betting you'll find a problem here because to kill everything in one go sounds like an earth strap has broken or come adrift to me. Mice/rodents are a very good suspect as they seem to love chewing on wires. Iain

I had a set of surface mount ones from a motorbike on the front mud guards at the first SVA test and the tester failed them outright because they moved with the steering. I know others have gone through SVA with their indicators in this position though. Check the IVA documentation carefully and maybe even speak to the local test centre to make sure what you are after will pass the test first would be my suggestion. Iain

The one from ebay is definitely spherical - I've got one in the garage right now. Iain

I found these on ebay to do the same job. Bearings http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1 Housing http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1 Or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/25MM-SHAFT-BEARING-C...=item4a92717202 Iain

If they are storing the footage in an electronic form then you are legally etitled to a copy under the data protection act. They are allowed to levy a "reasonable" charge to cover the costs of their people digging out the footage of you and any media that they have to provide it on (video/disc/whatever). Iain

IVA is a bit more than an MOT on steroids - you might want to download the manual to make sure you don't do anything fundamental that won't pass. As for serial numbers - the engine and the chassis are the only ones that have individually identifiable numbers. Axles and gearboxes will have numbers cast/stamped on them that will narrow them down as far as a part number and just maybe as far as the date that they were made but nothing closer than that. I'm nowhere near yet but when my 2B went through SVA it was more receipts that they were after. I simply filled the form in stating which parts were new and which parts had come from the donor vehicle. The lady at the VRO looked at the receipts for the new stuff and accepted the V5 of the donor vehicle in lieu of a receipt for the stuff that came from it. New, Q or age related is down to your being able to prove where all the bits came from and the built up inspection and IVA test are inextricably linked so you can't really seperate one from the other - they are part of the whole process. I suspect given your mixture of parts and their origins that you'll end up with a Q. Iain

I wondered that but drum braked hubs have 6 holes too - 4 for the studs (if they have been removed) and two to stick a socket through to get to the bolts for removing the hubs. To fit Cossy 4x4 discs you just need the correct calipers (wider for the vented disc) and the correct carriers. The hub and trailing arm are the same as any other disc braked Sierra. The only different ones I'm aware of are the RS500 (maybe all 3-door Cossy) ones which have different geometry to the trailing arms due to the much different ride-height. Iain

Vented rears are Cosworth 4x4 kit. I'm a little puzzled about "six holes in the hub" where are you actually talking about? You also say you've taken a wheel off. Off what? a car? - if so what brakes were/are on there at the moment? Pictures of what you are seeing when you pull the wheel off and these six holes would help a lot. Discs are way OTT for the rear of a car like a Hood and especially one with so little of the weight over the rear wheels. Does this car still need to be registered? If so then you need to be careful as they have tightened up somewhat on bias valves for braking effort whilst you will definitely need one of some sort to get the balance right. Iain

All very well but..... http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...valent+chromate be careful. Iain

Can you get "web exclusive" stuff with a trade card? I'm in the market so if there's a decent discount it could be worth getting more than one and passing the discount on. Iain

You could write a whole book on the subject but in very general terms the power rating of a supercharger is independant of the engine (assuming the engine isn't going to limit it in some other way). The reasoning behind this is that almost no matter what else goes on a given amount of fuel and air will make a directly related amount of power. Doesn't matter if your engine has one or ten cylinders and whether it's 20cc or 20 litres. If it takes in the same amount of fuel and air it will make the same power. In reality it will do the same amount of work which is not quite the same thing but good enough for as vague an answer as this. A supercharger will flow a set maximum amount of air to which you then add the correct amount of fuel to make a stochiometric mixture and assuming the engine burns it correctly and is efficient at converting the resulting heat into kinetic energy you get a directly related amount of power. So.... if your charger is designed to make 300bhp then added to your 200bhp engine you should be able to get that 300bhp. If you fit it to a smaller engine though you can always bleed off pressure to keep boost down to something sensible and prevent the engine from going pop. To an extent you can also change the gearing to run the charger at a different speed but they usually have a specific speed range where they work effectively and much outside that you lose so much performance that you might as well go to the extra effort to get a charger that's the correct size. Iain