knights_templar

At the risk of controversy, but better it is clarified. Current IVA manual M1 section 09E, not changed since 2010 version notes 3&5 and that for roller test. My reading All vehicles must have a roller test, except those excluded in roller rest section. If justified the tester can carry out a dynamic brake distribution test (note 5) if there is a concern from the roller test. Decelerometer (taply) test (note 3) can only be carried out if the vehicle can not be tested on rollers as stated in roller testing section. There is a note about mass produced vehicles (note 1) but that only excludes them from requirement 10, not the brake roller test, and not really relevant to a kit. As usual, testers knowledge, and interpretation, of the manual is large factor to getting through the test, makes giving advise on Rhocar a can of worms. That said, am I reading it right ? Who knows ? ☺

Versions of the B require the rad, and possibly other items, to be repositioned. Some end up mounting the rad horizontally with ducting to get around the problem.

The one in your link is an aftermarket for a small VW. As they are cheap, they are used, but weather they are up to the job on a Zetec Zero, I have no idea. As Richy depth is also important, as is air flow, and heat transfer. I would find someone who has one fitted to a Zero, and can vouch for the fact they will keep a Zetec in its 94 to 98 band without trouble. The Vdub type rads have plastic ends, remember cooling is one thing, but you have to mount it on the zero rad mounts, or mod, and fit a fan, although there appears to be some captive bolts, that could maybe be used.

think we need a little more detail of the accident and possible causes before strapping wings onto a Zero. Might just need the suspension altering, as sapperhall suggests.

You are right the wishbone need shim washers to pack it out. You really need to file a leading edge into the wishbone tubes, but if their in and tight there really isn't a problem. Just cut off the excess. If the oil doesn't do it, the next thing is heat.

Hello Chris, welcome to the forum. As you will find, there is a diverse membership, always willing to help and advise, and some very knowlagable people, as you will find, not always agreeing with each other ☺. A case in point, diff ratio options can give better acceleration, or grater top speed, on a Zero, at under 600kg personnaly feel effect on Zetec is marginal. Zero filter is before the pump, so not sure why you need any mod, although it blinking well doesn't seal without tape . Big problem is the use of bonding agent to seal tank sender, blocks up fuel tank outlet. You will have new tank, sealant not require.

You can cut, bend and weld the lever. Usually enough to make it usable with seat belt fitted, a requirement for IVA, if not already past, but not far enough for the ratchet mechanism still to work. The floor must also be strengthened for same.

I take your point Nigel, with the information we have, but putting in restictor will defeat the object of a bias system and should not be necessary. The cylinder combination that Zerorace is using will give approx 60/40 split at the cylinders, assuming bias is at mid point and the smaller cylinder is feeding the front. A matched caliper combination would change that to nearer 76/24 at the pads, there are other variables such as pad area, disc size and pads/disc friction coefficient, but the split is already low to the rear, before adjustment, but even fully adjusted Zerorace still has rear lock problems. Similar, not the same, my sons garage could not get the MOT standard on a mark one Golf, fully stripped out competition car with bias brakes. The problem was that the owner had plumbed the smaller cylinder to the rear, swapped over it went through with the bias locked mid way, he was running 0.685/0.75 which gives a 55/45 split at the cylinders with standard with matched calipers, pads and discs it achieved MOT so must have been between 60/40 and 70/30, which I believe is the acceptable standard. My point being that there may be another issue here.

pressure limiter, with bias? wont one fight the other

You also need the wheel to conform to IVA

I understand they put tubes over the tie rods weld them in place and a cut down bolt to provide the ball joint thread. Haven't seen their add where it states "everything you need", that is clearly wrong. Perhaps you should have words with them.

Bias bars are OK for IVA, provided it is mechanically locked, and fitted with the correct label. MOT will only check brake efficiency which show brake balance.

The smaller cylinder is always to the front. Actual size of cylinders should be calculated, and should give the correct split with the pivot bar in the mid point.

No provision in GBS kit, or raceline, no idea about retroford, for heater. Although they have been fitted with mods. There are electric options.

The zetec transmittor/sensor, same thing different name, is fitted to the head on the front right, as you sit in the car, it is screwed into the head, has a short wire which ends in a grey plug. I was told it does not use an understandable signal for the ECU, and as it is in a recess in the head, not into the water jacket, you can not fit a "Norma sensor" into its mount. So you need a new earthed mount for the ECU sensor as you will for the gauge. There are mounts avalible that fit into the coolant pipes, however it is better that the ECU, not so much the gauge, is sensing water temp of the engine, before stat, rather than after stat, which stays cold until the stat opens.

Zero loom in a 2b ? or is it a Vicky Green?

If you are refering to the rear lower brackets emagine the supplied bracket are two parts with joiner bars. You usually have to cut away the lower joiner bar to fit the chassis. I would not take it out of the chassis member

You need a stat, the plastic ford housing is known to crack and hangs over the battery panel, it has a number of outlets that have to be blocked and bypassed. Ford temp sensor can not be used, nor can its mount take a standard gauge temp sensor, so you need a mount for the transmitter as well as another for the ECU temp sensor. You need some way of filling the system idealy at the highest point of the cooling system. And of course, if you remove the ford unit, a stat. Add that all up, and add in the problems for flow, air locking etc, you may not be gaining much. BUT it is worth looking into, no point in waisting money needlessly.

Isn't engine position set by gearbox mount?

hubs are required, unfortunately, bit surprised that this was not mentioned when purchased, they sell them http://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=front%20hubs

the plastic, nylon, bushes are stiffer than poly, hold the suspension better, but poly are better for ride and sound transmission, suppose its a trade off, comfort or performance. did you use stainless bolts as well?

Good idea, again if you have questions shout. That is not to say I will have an answer ☺

Type to slow, no one had replied when I started ☺

For a start have you got hubs ball joints etc? Check top ball joins fit the top wishbones, do NOT force, tap if necc. Remove the front of the side panels cutting vertically behind the entry point of the rear sustention bars. The two lower bars come off both sides.cut up close to chassis, make up some discs and weld in place. The REAR bar going to the headlight plate, Leaving the headlight plate and front bar in situe. Again cover the newly exposed chassis tube end. You will have to shape the rear of the headlight plate, and probably fill weld between the rear of the plate and the newly exposed front bar. Depending on your car, you may have to remove some things in the engine compartment, so the cross members fit across the chassis. Positioning it all is very dependant on your chassis. Lower rear brackets fit approx across the remains of the lower rear tube, these are never in the same place, see below, front lower cross member is positioned from the rear lower bracket, top cross member should be positioned so that, when assembled fully, there is a 6 to 8 degree caster. Rear top bracket relate to top cross member. That does NOT mean the top cross member is 6to 8 degrees in front of the bottom. It is the hub angle that is important. A point to note is that you MUST keep the cross members parrellel with the rear Axel, that means you MUST not use any reference point on the chassis, other than the rear axle, or it will end up crabbing. You will most likely find that the position of the rear lower bracket will have to move a few times, and will most likely fit differently each side relative the the cut lower rear bar. So don't weld anything until the positions are finalised. The rear top brackets hang vertically, important as it effect final camber. The top damper mount fit at the base of the old top front bar, long bit toward headlight plate. Lower damper bracket should be positioned so that when the car is sitting on its suspension at normal ride height, the damper is at approx mid movement. Top and bottom damper mounts should be aligned. Remember also that the front and rear wishbone mount holes need to align, or the wishbones Won't fit. Weld it all up, paint it, cut and bend the side to fit. Make good anything you had to remove. After all that, even if you are not accurate the handling will be greatly improved, accurate and the difference is amazing. Don't think I have missed much, GBS will probably be able to fill in the gaps, I will try and answer any questions. Hope this all make sense.

You only need to mark bolts if they have no visable lock device. Eg thread lock. Unless you want your own reminder the it has been tightened