Big Jim

if you measure accross the terminals of the battery whilst the enigne is running & charging , the voltage should read between 13.8v & 14.2v if it's much over or under these readings then your alternator is at fault.

I agree with Ant, fit new rubbers and the correct bolts and leave it on. Get it chromed along with the top cover.

But Andy, you're going to have to learn to shrink those piccy's. I had to go next door to be able to see it all !!

either make the side panel curve fit the arch (which IMHO is too much of a curve) or alter the arch to fit the side panel. Check out the article on our northwest site, that's why we did it!

could be either, i've had a couple od alt's with diodes go, they showed high voltage ie 18v plus.

For a few idea's, go to our Northwest web site and look under build tips.

That's rubbish! one of the diodes in the alternator is knackered, carry on at this rate and your battery will boil and the plates will warp.

Or like this, with an extra brake light, and made so that a camping luggage rack can go on. Obviously you'd need to put edging on for the SVA man. You can't quite see the numberplate light underneath it.

If you look square on at the 3 terminals on the headlight bulb, think of them as an 'n' shape. The horizontal one at the top is the dip beam feed, the one on the left is earth, and the one on the right is main beam feed. Now find out which wire the current is coming up when each application is switched on, and there you have it. If it doesn't work then, you've got problems elsewhere.

I will bow to greater knowledge on this one, but I think that you can use the axle & steering etc. all the other parts that are needed. The rear axle should give you a LSD and disc brakes (not that they are needed) but if you do use it, I would like the rubber engine mountings off it, (you can't use those, you need the ones from a "standard" sierra, even a CVH model.)

They are the same as the 4x4 engine mounts and you can get them (only as Ford always do, a different part number) I also think that the cosworth mounts are the same. (these may be a stiffer rubber consistancy)

Get a copy of one of the kit car mags, sit down and phone them all up, they are usually very helpful, and like all insurance companies, some will give you a much better deal than others.

I think it's great that RH is now taking an interest in the club, and by supporting us with these prizes, well done the new committee. My car is one of those that is probably as far away from the "one donor + kit" as you can get, but I applaude his choice of qualification, after all, that is what he sells the kit on. I would guess that there will be a list of parts (that are usually changed!) that will be 'ticked off' to see what is still original.

Geoff, you have just won the 2003 award for bravery! either that or you don't drive your car very much. Those old RH seats are killers!! get rid of them, put some decent seats in and start enjoying your Hood!

It will now be an annual event. many thanks to Robbo & Mitch (& their women folk!)

I contacted "Polyfacto" Tel No; 01323 841399 I then posted the side screens to them, they took them apart and cut the metal framework inside of them so they now fold and I can get them into the boot of my car (Mark 3)

It's not worth playing with it whilst it's still in the car, take it out then you can get a proper look-see. It will only take you a hour or so.

Right guys, your going to do a lot of work that you will finish up re-doing again in about 12 months time. Velcro is no use for this, forget it, you need to stick the carpets down with glue. Talking about glue, the spray on stuff is not much good either, it's either the heat up the tunnel, or the damp (and they do get damp!) but it will un-stick within 12 months. If you go to a proper car trimmer, they use contact adhesive from a tin that you brush on, and it smells for all the world like EVOSTICK. When I replaced my carpets a few years ago (Some stuck with the spray stuff, well....unstuck!, and some stuck with No-Nails!, boy that bit was stuck, I had to disc grind that stuff off) Once I had run out of the 'proper' stuff, I went and bought some Evostick. they have been on now for over 2 years, been cooked, soaked etc, and they're still good. I would suggest that you cover the tunnel and sides, down to the floor with approx 1" - 2" overlap on the floor, then do the floor last, up to the side edges, either glued to a wooden piece, or direct to the floor. Be aware that mats don't work! because of the way we have to get in & out of the Hood's, they soon ruck up and get in the way, I have a piece of ally "chequer plate" painted black (black carpets) for my heels to wear on when I'm driving.

Yes it was a great weekend, and fair play to Mitch, how many people who've just built their cars can say that the first outing for them, was a few hundred miles camping & touring trip round Wales? Course he did have a few teething troubles, but that's what happens, there'll be a lot less next time out. The weather was perfect, along with a great (& cheap) place to get the sleeping bag out. We had a good few laughs. A brief report has been sent for inclusion in the next mag, but I will do one for our web site, given time. Jim

having had first the sierra heater (cut down) but still too big and awkward, then I went to the Polo one, an excellent heater, 3 speed fan, and can easily be modded to vent anywhere. But had to take it out when I fitting the Vauxhall engine as there wasn't quite the room for the blower. After a few runs out without one, I can say that it has now gone to the top of my list for sorting out. Unless you're only going to use your car in the summer (IE those few days in June when the sun comes out, and it's actually warm as well!) then I would serriously recommend that you fit a heater.

I've just been told that there is a 2 ltr sierra for sale in our local town, with some MOT & tax left on it for £50. And I am in Chorley, just south of Preston. If you're interested, I'll go and find it and get details etc. Jim

Well I think that it's a definate engine strip, and I also think that it's something broken.

When you started it, did you check for good oil pressure? as it has happened where people have forgotten to put the square drive shaft in between the dizzy and the oil pump. Also, what about the water? it's usual that there are air locks in the system, which will bleed themselves out as it warms up, thus the water level goes down quickly in the rad. It's very unusual that you cannot turn it now that it's cooled off, if it has only been ticking over for a few minutes. It sounds more like there is a mechanical malfunction somewhere, it could be anything from a big end bolt coming out, flywheel bolt etc. or even the gearbox could have siezed, (unlikely unless you've previously drained it, then forgotten to refill it.) Take off the front cover and see if all is well with the cam belt etc. Take out the plugs, press the clutch and try to turn it. Good luck.

Errrrr?? it worked Daz!!

Do not shorten the dipstick!