Big Jim

Grumpy, old northwest Hoodies!!!!.....................less of the old!! We had to keep nagging him, he was enjoying coming out with us in the Granada too much. Anyway, it's still not finished, they never are!!!

Now you can mix it with Irish Bob! Congrats on the pass.

Don't knock it until you've tried it!

This would usually come about because the clutch cable is about to seize up, because of the heat of the exhaust. You need to protect the cable where it goes through the exhaust manifold, with some form of heat shield, I wrapped fairly thick copper wire around it (old motorbikers trick) and it lasted for around 3 years, although when I took it off to change the engine, it was certainly getting stiffer. Providing the cover does bolt up to the pedal box tightly, it should be enough.

yes, but it won't move the crude that's been hidden in that little corner for ages. What happens is that whilst your engine is noisily reving away, pushing you pride & joy around those love sweeping curves....... (I digress!) it is producing carbon deposites, which wash around in your oil, until there is too much for your oil to carry, when it then starts to fall to the bottom of whereever it is, especially where the oil isn't moving too fast, or the flow isn't that much to start with, once it starts to build up it progresively get worse very quickly. Flushing out with flushing oil will remove some, because it's thin, it "runs" around the engine much faster, picking up the carbon as it goes, finally dumping it in the sump, where the oil is at it's "slowest" that's fine, but if you've got crud that's been there for some time, it won't go in 10 mins with flushing oil, it takes time. The best bet is to change your oil more regularly than is recommended.

I can only tell you what an Oil Company Chemist told me once. When my daughter bought an old Fiesta, and asking me to "give it a service Dad" After dropping the oil, I couldn't get any new oil into the top of the engine, so deciding to take the rocker cover off, I've NEVER seen anything as bad in my life (& I have worked on some pretty grim stuff) there was carbon built up that much, you couldn't see the rocket shaft. she didn't want to spend any money on it, so stripping and rebuilding it was out, as she'd paid very little for it, just for a knock about for a few months. Anyway I got onto this Chemist type person who worked for a petroleum company that ryhmes with Hell, he said the best way, with an old engine, once you've scrapped away as much crap as possible, is to run it on the cheapest 20 - 50 oil you can get your hands on, and change it every 1000 miles, with the filter every 2000 for as long as it is still washing crap out when you drain the oil. Once happy, use some decent 20 - 50 stuff.

See! us old B.....ds aren't as thick as you young un's make us out to be!

Don't try to buy one from the gready scrappy's, look in LOOT.COM, put "sierra" in the search box, and hit the tit, when you've finished looking through those, do the same with "Pinto" you'll more than likely find one within a week or so for less than £50, and possibly free (my last one was)

Don't get a pancake filter, unless you want poor performance, and dimples in your bonnet, get one of the foam type as stated above.

Be careful, There is an offset unfortunately on the 2B (don't know if it's carried over to the subK or not0 but everyone has had to add a wheel spacer just on one side to bring out that wheel in line. If you try to centralise your rear sub frame, you can do more harm than good. Can some of the 2B builders please confirm just how much of a spacer needs to be fitted?

God I hope that you're not singing! I bet the dog makes a better noise.

If you get hold of the belt on the longest run on the "slack" side you should be able to twist the belt 90º with your finger & thumb. You'll know if it's too tight when you start the engine up, it makes a noise unlike anything else.

I agree about the LRP, it's crap! and by all means fit an injection head, but don't rush to do it, as it'll be a long time before the valves go knackered on the mileage the average hoodie does, bide your time until a head comes available at the right price ie, nowt or next to nowt!

If you guys can hear music in a Hood, you're either not going fast enough, or you're listening to the best music, twin Webers at full throttle..................Yeh!

Before you do the side panels, take a look at the article that we put together a month or so ago, about the side panels & rear wings, it should save you a lot of heartache. http://nwhoodies.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/side_panels.htm

Mixed fealings about the "new hall location" there were obviously many people who missed finding us, but the place was warm (old place never was) we could sneak out early, as there wasn't any stalls to dodge round, it's just a pity that there wasn't as much there, and that it was poorly signed by the organisers. But next year you'll all know where to look!

Have you got copies of all the scribbling in the margin etc? thanks anyway, I hope i don't need it much anyway.

Run it on unleaded for 3 tankfull, then put a tankfull of LRP crap in. Better still, just run it on unleaded, if and when your valves start to leak a bit and the power drops off, then just change the head as suggested. You'll find that for the mileage the average Hoodie does, you've got a good couple of years in it yet! And by - the - way, those "sparkrite" do - da's are crap as well, don't waste your money on one (I did )

Don't try to polish out scratches, unfortunately you'll have to put up with them, it won't rust, but it will oxidise slightly and show a grey mark, theres nothing that you can do. (unless someone else knows otherwise, and I'd want to see the results first!)

I think that we're all waiting for you to do it, then tell us how it went. Have fun.

Hi Pete, I believe you've got it in one! It's also good engineering practice to have a plain washer under a nylock or slotted nut, and also if you're using a single spring washer on ally. How's the leg? will we see you at Stoneleigh?

I put "SPAX" shockers on my mark 3, after one of the Zimmerframe ones exploded into pieces on me. Just take your shockers off, then measure the open & closed lengths so as to quote to the supplier. I had the front suspension modified to make it a better ride (let's not go into that!) but I am told that 130 lb springs give a good ride on the front. (9" long x 1.85" dia......I think) the rear springs can vary, RH fitted a couple of different types (that I know of) but the same rule applies, check the open & closed lengths, and get something to match. Again 1.875" dia..........I think, but I couldn't get shockers to take 9" springs, so went for 11" springs instead at 170 lbs. They are OK on the motorway, or 2 up, but a little harsh when only 1 up. That's with 185 / 60 x 14" tyres. Also watch the bolt sizes for the "eye" fittings, the zimmerframe ones are AF, and all others are metric (or vicer-versa, whatever, they aren't the same!)

That's cos they moved us this year, we were in that hall that they had the miniture radio controlled cars in the last two years. The one through the plastic tunnel, near the Bar. And yes, I agree with you, it wasn't up to the standard that it was like a few years ago. But in saying that, once you've bought your kit, you aren't really interested in the manufacturers any more, more the accessory stalls etc. There were just enough of those, I certainly got all the bits and pieces that I wanted. It would have been nice to see more members there, but it's the early arrival & late departure that puts most people off.

you could still "fit the Vauxhall engine into the Donor car" before you finally scrap it, ie send your SORN with the new engine number on the log book. Putting this engine in the 2B throws up one particular problem, because of that "plough" tube under the engine bay, it would sit up a little too high for the bonnet. Now you could either cut a slot in the bonnet and scoop it to clear the front of the engine (this is what Andy Campbell has done) and use maybe a Manta sump, or cut out that tube and strengthen it another way. You also will not be able to use a servo for the brakes, but that's no great problem, you can still use the sierra pedal box. Go to it.

Why do you ask about ignition timing? The cyl head from the injection shouldn't make any difference to your ignition timing, you set that to suite the system that you have. The only problem with using the inj head, is the shape of the inlet ports, they are pear shaped, the manifold that you have has round port faces, and a good quality gasket from your local Henry's place won't make the seal, you need to buy a cheap & nasty one from your local accessory shop, there's more paper to it, poorer quality, but at least it will allow you to get a seal between your manifold and the head.