harvs

It's just I'm starting to run out of things to check / mod

For the steering rack, it was the 'u' clamp which wasn't clamping the rack down enough. I used some pvc piping (like you plumb sink drains) which fitted quite well in between the rack and the clamp to pad it out a little.

Thanks Ian

A bit of searching has found this on

Must be worth a try!

Just got to face taking half the engine to bits so I can get to the injectors....

Cheers Steve. I don't recall the plug being wet, which I guess it should be if the fuel was getting in there OK (and not firing).

So maybe pointing to the injector again?...

Hi

I seem be one cylinder down. Performance was not so good and it sounded unusual. I checked by feeling the exhaust and the one for the cylinder nearest the air intake is cold.

Had the spark plug out to check for a spark - which was fine. But changed the spark plug just to be on the safe side with the same result.

So I'm guessing the fuel injector is the next thing to check? I'm not that experienced with engines, so not really sure what I should be checking for?! Does anyone have any ideas please?

Cheers

James

All fixed now - thanks again. On to the next problem now! (engine....)

Clamp your brake hoses to find the problem caliper (or master cyl).

As Andy says above, try isolating the problem. I used this technique which traced it to one calliper. Even though I'd pumped through loads of fluid there was still air trapped in this one corner. Lots more fluid & taking it off and turning it in many directions got there in the end....

Good luck

Thanks guys, especially the exhaustive list Nigel!

I've had it up on axle stands now and think it is where the rack is bolted to the chassis. When the wheel is turned, the rack appears to shift slightly in its fixing and then spring back causing the noise. I'll try packing out the fitting to remove any slackness and see if that cures it.

Will also check the other steering joints / bolts while I'm at it.

Thanks for the help

James

Hi

I've just finished my winter modifications (new prop shaft, gaz coilovers and gauges) and was about to take it for a spin to check everything out, when I noticed a clicking noise when turning the steering wheel.

It happens when the the wheels are pointed straight forwards, then if you turn a little left and then back straight on there's a clicking noice. It's relatively loud and vibrates a little through the chassis. I asked the wife to turn the wheel whilst I tried to locate the sound - but couldn't see anything other than the rack flexing a little near where the input shaft is.

It's a RH superspec.

Before I start taking things to bits I thought I'd ask if this problem sounded familiar to anyone / if there's anything I should be looking out for?

Many thanks

James

I've added a guard to my superspec like Steve has in the photo on here

It's different to the 2b but might give you some ideas...

I think they basically do the same job

Nope. The ammeter measures current - ie how many amps are being drawn and the voltmeter (surprisingly!) tells you the voltage.

The voltmeter can help to tell you how well the alternator is performing

The ammeter can tell you if you've got a lot of electrical things turned on (or maybe indicate a problem)

Gauges for me - fitting some old smiths ones this winter

wonder what happened to that british chap the Americans were trying to get extradited for hacking the US government computers?

The americans are still trying to get him....

http://www.bbc.co.uk/search/news/gary_mckinnon

Please could you add me to the list Lee

Cheers

James

I assumed we were voluntary

I don't think I'd volunteer to do the IVA! Yep, no VAT to pay.

Hi Andy

Do you have the 6 pager supplementary wiring diagram from Robin Hood which includes the necessary info on the wiper motor?

If not, PM me your email address and I'll send it on.

Cheers

James

Hi Bullfist

Congratulations on the SVA/IVA

Glad you were all OK. Bet your daughter enjoyed her prom entrance!

I'm replacing my prop shaft at the minute as I think it's been causing vibrations at high (ish) speeds. Soon find out, and will have more confidence that it's not going to fall apart a few inches from my legs....

The torx bit has an 11.3mm shaft but it sheared suddenly

Wonder if the low temperature contributed to the failure? The only time I've broken a spanner was when it was really cold outside.

Glad you're feeling better

It says you posted your note at 10:05pm on my screen, so guess it might just be you! What time does your computer say?

I've got this on my diff...

83BG JD 392

4A OE03 0532

I believe the '392' refers to a ratio of 3.92. I've actually just had the diff off and confirmed the ratio by turning it.

So I'd say you are correct in your assumption

I had a failed prop-shaft

the sum of all the points on the ground has to equal the total weight. there is no other option.

Agreed. 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 = 4. Not sure why some people think it's something else?!

Fantastic, thanks Femster & Steve.

Steve - I managed to get the prop shaft out in the end - with a hack saw!

Hi

I've taken out both drive shafts, and forgot to note which side each one came from.

Does the one with the normal direction thread on the hub nut go on the passenger or drivers side?

Cheers

James

Congratulations - that sounds like a hard one to spot.

Great, many thanks mowerman. Will do