Bob Tucker

I had this exact setup. I got mine from Helix, they do a bespoke clutch plate, and a heavy duty pressure plate as a kit.

If its on a Hood its probably a Cortina.

the usual "mechanic" test is can you twist the belt on the longest straight run 90 degrees.

If less its ok, if more its too loose.

recommendation for the 2B is 7 inches from ground to the cill directly in front of the rear wing. It was designed  (why??) to have a big gap between the wheel and the wing.

Phaeton, I dont disgree.

I wouldnt use an angry grinder, I used a Dremel to do mine.

Its a coach bolt, id cut a slot in the head and use a flat screwdriver, then replace it.

Sorry mate,

that sounds like a b***ered big end, especially as iit disappears when you disconnect the plug. 

IMHO its too deep to be a small end. That would be more of a rattle than a clonk.
Hows your oil pressure?

You can check the MOT history. That will show what it is registered as.

Your biggext problem is that there are no suitable locations on a 2B chassis to mount the wishbone pivot points. You will need to make up a subframe to install in the chassis first. I looked at this years ago and decided it wasnt worth it. With decent coilovers and vorrect height setting, the Sierra setup can work very well.

If youre worried about stones, bugs etc, look at safety glasses from the likes of ARCO, toolstation, screwfix etc.

I have a standard full face motor cycle helmet that I use for trackdays, its always passed their inspection.

I also have an electrical cutoff switch, and a hidden switch for my electric fuel pump to stop joy riders.

Hi Mike?

I have a bunch of parts right at the back of my shed from when I cut off the sliding pillar and replaced it with wishbones.
My wife will tell you (& me often!) that I never throw anything away, so the rack is probably there. I'll take a look later today & send you a DM if I find it.

Weber DCOEs I think. I cant tell the size. As for power, I'd estimate anything from 125 to 135 depending on head work and exhaust system.

I agree with Foz.
Did you sell the box with a lever, or has the buyer fitted his own?
Cant really help with a whiny 5th gear.

Hard to say without much more info. It looks like you have 2046 cc.
The fr33 cam is a second stage fast road/rally cam. Its quite a radical cam, designed to work with other engine mods.
What carb/s have you got? What have you done to the cylinder head?
We can have a guess at HP with that info.

Standard pinto bore is 90.82mm

With the standard stroke of 76.95mm you get the following capacities

92mm bore = 2046 cc

93mm bore = 2091 cc

94mm bore = 2136 cc

+125 refers to an oversize of + 0.125" = 3.175mm so 93.995mm bore.

94mm is stretching the limits of a standard 2.0 block and once it's worn it's scrap as it can't go out any further.

Have a look at CBS Car Builder Solutions they sell remote kits.

the kits didnt have vin numbers allocated. the dvla gave you one or you made up your own. in the uk it is 17 characters assorted letters and numbers. if you got the uk v5 (log book) with the car the vin no will be in there. then you can stamp that on your chassis.

Just taxed my 2.0 2B IIRC it was £325 pa, Ive done it monthly, almost £31 per month.

I also live just inside Khans Kingdom, so Im facing ULEZ at £12.50 per day.

I'd move abroad, but the EU wont let me.

I'd move outside ULEZ, but the value of my house has now dropped just because of ULEZ.

makes you feel like joining the travellers & sticking 2 fingers up at any kind of authority.

incorrect toe in or castor probably. What susension, sliding pillar or wishbone?

in some cases in the past the DVLA has asked for an engineers report to confirm the new details. Not always, as usual the DVLA are inconsistent.

Kent Cams instructions follow. Check timing details for FR33, from memory I think Jez is right. But check it anyway.

https://www.kentcams.com/files/kent_cams_catalogue_2012_a5.pdf
 

To check if its ignition, if you have a strobe sensor put it on each spark plug HT lead in turn. You should see a regular pulse/flash.
If its irregular, check the nodiz setup in more detail.
to check if its fuel ,pull the plugs, they should all have similar colours. You may find one or more is either black & sooty (rich) or light grey (too weak.) Is the exhaust smoky black (too rich)? I cant see anything on the video.

Post pictures  of the plugs to help us more.

Happy to help. Its always easy to assume the worst and start rebuilding the engine. Start with the easy or cheap fixes first.

Pintos were  notorious for bad camshaft wear. Remove the cam cover and check the valve clearances.
Try to isolate exactly where the noise is coming from, the "stethoscope" is a useful tool.

The Southern kit car club have links to Snodhurst Service station.
Apparently they look after a number of their members kitcars.
https://www.southernkitcars.com/suppliers/#

That doesnt sound like big end knock. Its a bit too fast and not deep enough. 
Hows the oil pressure?
check the sump hasnt been bashed upwards. I had a similar knock when I went over a big road hump.
It was the big end bolt and the conrod tapping on the sump.
try using a long screwdriver as a stethoscope. Put the end at various point of the engine and put the handle end near or in your ear.