churchy

Thank you guys, it is great to know what I have to do and I best way to tackle it, the pictures are great and it just goes to show how important this club is, the wealth of knowledge and everyone's willing to give advice is tremendous and I am so grateful. I will keep you up to date with my progress and thank you again

Thank you guys, so once I have removed the nuts the threaded bar should knock out, then once removed the tube with the bushes should lift out so I can get to the bushes if I understand correctly

Hi guys, need some advice before tackling my next job. On the drivers side I have about 1/4" play on this bush at the back that I have circled in pink, now I think there is a Bush the other side of this threaded bar/ bolt, it looks like it doesn't travel all the way through so another bush on the front, has anybody tackled this job and what is on the other side that I cannot see, my last question is how do I get in to repair, amy advise would be very appreciated. Thanks Andy

Silly question but have you tried the car without the bonnet and nose cone off to see if the car still overheats, if it does then I think there could be something causing the problem but if it's fine then it could well be not getting enough air directed through the rad

Is your rad sitting upright so the air is hitting it straight on and did you have this problem before the engine was removed

I run a 2 litre pinto and had overheating problems a few years ago and the previous owner had removed the thermostat, I found out after trial and error that my radiator just wasn't getting enough air flow through it. I put a double core rad in which increased cooling capacity and then a electric fan but made sure that when the fan ran it pull air across the whole of the rad and the car now runs lovely with a thermostat back in even in traffic, to me if the thermostat is missing this has been an on going problem, also at the same time as my cooling problems i changed my volt meter for an oil temp gauge which I think is far more benifical, I noticed my oil temp was high especially when I was high revving the car, I do have a sump guard fitted but i did fit an air to air oil cooler in front of my rad, ran it from my oil filter with an thermostatic sandwich plate so not to cool the oil too much as this is worst than getting it too high, I had to change my oil filter for an cosworth filter, it passes the same oil rate and is ok with 20/50 oil but is smaller in length so it would fit inside my engine bay. The filter came from Burton and is a EFL298 FILTER this did bring my oil temp down and now it is happy days. Hope this helps Andy

Hi, I have a Sierra base S7 and this is about the only job I have been putting off for some time. The rear suspension, at the moment I am running is a Sierra set up with standard Sierra shock absorbers(new) with springs inboard on the rear subframe these springs are not standard but I have no idea what they are. I love the ride height of the set up at the moment and the wheels sit nicely filling the wheel arch but when riding along the rear is too soft and over pot holes and large bumps the suspension bottoms out . My question is what's the best way to sort this out with keeping the ride height the same and not going too hard, any advise will be gladly appreciate. Cheers Andy

Thankyou guys, for that information and as usual it is a great help to me. I have just sworn my motor and will be doing the rear first. Thankyou Pete for the offer of your spear springs and i may take you up on that when I come to the fronts but i will let you know if that is ok. Thankyou guys once again for your time and help cheers

Thankyou guys. It always amazes me the knowledge from the owners club and that is worth the membership fee in itself. Thankyou again, now I know what I will be looking and asking for. Cheers again Andy

Hi, my winter project is to change the rear and front suspension, i have the rear suspension covered but the front I need a bit of advice on. I have a sierra base S7 with in board spax adjustable coil overs that came in the kit I would think, I want to keep with the in board adjustable coil overs but i think the the springs are a little to hard but do not know what spring rate is fitted but more importantly what springs and shocks should I get and where to get them, i love the ride but just think a softer spring would be better without going to soft. Any advice would be grateful especially from anybody who has changed there shocks with this set up. Cheers Andy

Hi, in the end I took engine, gearbox and then prop out. Took the prop to Morris Bailey who made a updated prop in 24 hours and while I had the engine out i put a Kent cam fast road cam kit, a Kent Vernier pulley and lighten the fly wheel on my pinto. The car has been back on the road for 2 weeks and what a difference the upgrades had made it is almost like a different car the engine sounds different but it also spins up so much quicker and the cam doesn't slow the car down at low revs at all but when i put my foot down the car is so much quicker and more enjoyable. Thanks for all the advice and as always that advise has lead me to look in the right place, i think it is always nice to hear how our topics end. Once again thankyou guys

Thankyou guys for the advice even if it's not what I want to hear but thought that would be the answere. Two questions engine and gearbox out together or can I strip them out separately as last time I took the engine out there wasn't much room and i don't know weather both will come out together in one. As for the mot then yes I suppose he should of seen it. Thankyou guys for the advice as always it is much appreciated. Cheers Andy

Thankyou guys for the advise looked under car today and the prop uj has gone, which is nice to know that with your help I have traced the problem. Now to the downside is i cannot remove the prop as it is hitting the diff? I have a S7 and the floor is one sheet stainless and removing the tunnel is not an option. So has anyone done this job in the pass, is it drive shafts out and rear diff removed or can I cut the floor to allow a small access panel to assist with dropping the prop enough to pass the diff my only worry with last option sealing the structure any advise would be every helpful. Cheers Andy

Thanks nigel i was going to check that as well but at moment I have a big so crawling underneath the car is the last thing on my mind, when I am checking my prop uj I should notice a play with the prop in place just by turning it or does the prop has to come out and if so with the prop out could I run the engine and gearbox slowing to eliminate those too. Thanks for the advice and i will let you know what I find next week when feeling a bit better. As always the club's knowledge and advise is first class. Cheers Andy

No, the prop goes straight into the gearbox, if I get time i shall remove prop and check ug' s but thanks for the advice. Any advice welcome. Cheers Andy

No, but it can on instantly almost.i shall check the ju's but not feeling like I won't to at the moment may be at the weekend. Cheers

Sorry about spelling new tech with pro dick a text but I hope you get the jist

Hi, on the way back from a mot i noticed a vibration through the car. Now from the mot he didn't notice any wheel bearing etc that needed looking at and this can on all of a sudden, after 3000rom the car runs lovely when I freewheel no vibration and this vibration happens in any gear, i did check rear diff and gearbox levels all ok and as soon as I freewheel it stops with in a second or two, when im freewheeling the car is still in gear but no throttle. I do have a slight problem with number 3 and 4 pro carbonising which a oil on the plugs up which leads to a miss fire, clean plugs up and she's ready to go but this is totally difference to that and i know that I am going to address this when the car is off the road in winter. When car is stationary and i rev she seems ok. Any suggestions would be helpful the vibration which I think may be engine but not sure. This happens when engine and coil is cold as well as hot. I'm running a 2.1 pinto with standard can and standard carb 32/36 carb was new 3 years ago. Hope I haven't bored you all to deaf before you can help me. Cheers Andy

Hi Alan, me and Mrs should be there about 9.30 if all goes well. Cheers Andy

Hi Alan, I will be attending the Stamford car show this year, I have my invitation and car number​ already printed and would love to join and be in the robin hood display if that is ok and there is enough room, I should arrive about 10am and will make my way over to you which if it was like last year, just a turn to the left and park up, look forward to meeting you all again and sorry for not letting you know earlier as I have just found my invitation code in my e-mails, if you could just let me​ know if that is ok, ​Thanking you Andy

Hi all, I have fitted air blast oil cooler with a temp thermostat to my pinto engine and was wondering if the oil pump would be OK or should I upgrade to a high pressure and higher flow rate unit, I have a oil temp and oil pressure gauges fitted to the car. I have not run the car yet with the oil cooler but have always had good oil pressure. Just wondering if anybody can shed some light before I start her up as I do not want to cause any damage, PS I have primed the pipework and cooler with oil. Any information would be appreciated. Cheers Andy

Hi Al,this is Andy Church i am going to the Stamford car show on Sunday and would be very grateful if i could join you on the day, i have just seen your post on the site, look forward to meeting you all Sunday, Cheers Andy

Hi guys, I have just changed my fuel system from a 2 pipe with a return and the ford 3 way reg valve, to a one pipe straight to the mechanical pump and from the pump to the carb, with this mod done the car runs so much better, smoother and more responsive, I am running a 2.1 pinto with 32/36 carb but before I alter the pipework permanently and remove my return fuel line, my question is does it make any difference on the fuel pump which way the inlet and outlet to the carb is, at the moment the feed from the tank enters the top connection of the pump thren pumps through the pump and the outlet at the bottom goes to the carb via a inline fuel filter, I cannot see any arrow on the pump to indicate inlet and outlet or flow , thanks for any help

Never throught of it like that but good point, cheers