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Posts posted by brumster

  1. I did this in an Exmo but in order to get it into the nosecone it had to be angled/tilted back and this affects airflow through it; I'm not saying it doesn't work, but just try and keep it to a minimum (the angle I mean). I used a 90's VW Polo diesel radiator from memory - they are quite compact. My memory is hazey but it might have also been fitted to some other models like a Seat Cordoba or somesuch....!

  2. 4x Jenvey 45mm throttle body trumpets, 40mm length, with bolts. Some slight cuts as can be seen from the pictures.


    12x 80mm fuel tank foam blocks, as sold by Merlin Motorsport. For use in tanks to stop fuel surge (make sure they don't interrupt with your fuel gauge sender though! Not suitable for pendulum-style senders in unbaffled tanks). Cover the postage and buy me a beer or two (so say £10 posted?)






  3. Inside the CV you have your tripode joint and normally there's a spring and a little cup in there that just push the joint back out - the danger is that (while driving) you compress the joint to the point you use up all the travel and smash the tripode into the end of the CV cup; this would end up damaging something (probably wrecking the tripode bearings or even smashing/splitting the CV cup I guess, in extreme circumstances). They should compress by hand relatively easily but build up resistance due to the spring - there will be a natural point where you can't compress them any more. "More force" sounds like you're just pushing against the spring - you won't damage anything here, that's fine. You'll get to a point where you've used up that spring travel and your tripode is hitting the end of the CV channels they run in - you don't want to be hitting this when the driveshaft is level (ie. when the wheel is level and the shaft is at it's shortest point). You want a bit of leeway... likewise at full bump/droop, you don't want the tripode pulling all the way out of the CV!

  4. As per title, MIG welder for sale. Some minor scratches but only to be expected for fair wear and tear; otherwise in great condition and works perfectly. Good solid little welder, 150A, takes 0.6 or 0.8 wire (currently set up for 0.8mm) on a 5Kg spool, has the little regulator and space at the back for those "hobby" cylinders (although my recommendation would be to get a proper regulator and 10 or 20L bottle if you're planning on using it a lot!). Have a few spares for it (nozzles, tips) which I'll throw in.

    Say £125 ovno?


  5. Going to sell my plate-type LSD if anyone is interested. It's absolutely brand new and unused. It's a 3J Driveline unit, set up for fast road use (I can't recall the ramp angles but they will be relatively soft/progressive). Comes with the snap rings for push-fit driveshafts (you don't need the bolt-on types). This is for the common 7" diff (not the Cosworth 7.5").

    Brand new these are a smidge over a grand but I got this a while back when they were cheaper, so I'm not going to be greedy, just after my money back or otherwise I'll keep it ;) absolute bargain for someone after one of these...



  6. Figured this might be of use to someone before I advertise it 'wider'... this is an old Sun DGA2500 gas analyser cabinet (note - the gas analyser part is gone now!) but it's really handy as a portable/moveable garage trolley, particularly if you use a computer in the garage or workshop (diagnostics, mapping, for reference, etc). It has a 240v power distribution plug inside to take power to a computer, printer, the screen, etc. then an LCD screen on the support, a USB keyboard and mouse. There's a closed-off cabinet bit in the bottom where the PC can go. The wheels are on castors (lockable). Please note the PC is *not* included (but you get the screen, keyboard and mouse). You wouldn't want the PC anyway, it was some old Windows XP thing :D 



  7. Is this of any use to anyone, either as a spares for someone who already has one or maybe their gun has broken, or else it's something somebody could fix if they were so inclined. It needs new battery cells (24v Nicad); the battery pack is knackered and won't hold a charge. I don't have the time to break the pack down and replace them...

    Call it £20 + P&P. Can bring along to midlands club night/etc....




  8. I think the old tax categories were split at 1600cc weren't they? Prior to them being emissions based... <heads off to look>


    Assuming it's pre-2001, the cut-off is 1549cc and since the 1600 pinto was actually 1593cc you're buggered anyway, so you'd be paying the higher rate now of £295.... right? So going up to 2000 makes sod all difference as far as the DVLA are concerned.

    So if you're currently paying £180 then yeah, something to worry about, but I'm guessing that's not the case.

    Some evidencing of Pinto engines here (but I'm sure you've seen it) :



  9. On 7/9/2022 at 7:44 AM, Jonty Wild said:

    What would worry me is if you tell them it has changed and they ask questions and want documentation what might be the implications if you don't supply it?

    I would think they refuse to issue the V5 and ask for a vehicle inspection. But in this circumstance, I'd just bail out and say "forget it, I'll put the old engine back in" and do exactly that, reverting it to the as-is V5 records.

  10. Not sure if there will be any interest but just on the off-chance anyone is interested in doing a high-end electrical build... I'm contemplating sale of my MoTeC PDM15 power delivery module. 8x 20A outputs and 7x 8A outputs (continuous), 16 digital/analogue inputs, CAN bus, only 260 grams. All outputs have over-current, short circuit and thermal overload protection on them. A wealth of completely customised functions and logic operations, you can program this thing to do pretty much anything you want - simple stuff like switching your cooling fan on/off under certain conditions such as engine temperature, road speed, engine speed, etc. or intermittent wiper speeds based on road speed, fog light logic, run-on water coolant pumps, immobiliser-style functions... the limit is your imagination really! No more fuses and relays - all solid state, resets any circuits automatically if you want it to, or can re-try circuits a number of times before giving up.

    Now I appreciate it's a bit high-end for the average kit car build so sit down before I tell you the price but... well, these are £1400 new and I can tell you thanks to international chip shortages you'll be waiting a very considerable time to get one... :( otherwise I'll keep it and might put it in the Zero one day! Happy to help with configuration/explanation if anyone is interested but scared on how to do it ;) .

    £900 ono


  11. Thanks to everyone in the club, particularly the committee/organising team and all those responsible for the club facilities this weekend... and the hog roast of course 🤩👌

    Was a bit of a flying visit for me this year, late getting there and needing to leave early today, but it was great to catch up with some of you... I know Stoneleigh has been shrinking year on year but I thought it was a good turnout weather considered, and also the "bringing together" of all the club pitches a bit more central seemed to work, if only that I didn't seem to be walking so bloody far to get round everything :)


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  12. I suppose one slightly justifying argument for buying a 'ringer' would be if you were going to strip it of it's identity to turn it into a race car, or some sort of track car where the rules didn't require it to be road legal. That doesn't necessarily negate the arguments about it being built shoddily, or illegally from stolen parts/etc, but is one path that might make sense to someone looking to have a track-day toy that's trailered to events. A rather niche case though, I think. Great write-up.

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