brumster

The long bolts are probably Ford (if they still even do them) but for the cover plate bolts, are they some weird and wonderful thread? If not, I'd just buy some suitable length flange-head bolts (or cap-heads with suitably-sized washers) from one of umpteen online suppliers and use something more readily available and also easier to undo in the future!! But I assume they're not a common thread because otherwise everyone would be doing it...?

Also (and apologies if I've missed an announcement on this) is the "garage" feature dropped, or just not re-implemented yet? Not that I'm fussed about it in the slightest, but just mentioning it in case...

Yes, echo that, if you leave that as-is you will find your cooling is even worse than before. Now the radiator fins are at such an angle and you've not blocked off around the radiator to actually force air *through* it, the air will find it far easier to blow "up" the slope/ramp of the radiator face and over the top into the engine bay. This is a very common problem on kits, angled radiator or not. There's some in-depth F1 article about radiator angles that I read once, probably show up on an internet search if you're interested :D....

9 hours ago, theduck said:

I spotted that and have raised with the developer. If you type in the address search and then press use my current location, it will actually use the address search field. 

Hmmm, doesn't work for me. It just asks for my browser to allow location searching, and wants to add my current location (which is too spot on for me, security-wise). There doesn't seem a way to drop a pin or reference a place name or postcode. Maybe it's me/my browser though, I dunno. Never mind, not critical, just a bit of feedback that's all

Minor point - the address search in the member map doesn't seem to work/offer up any results so I can't place a marker down where I want it...

Looks great!

Swirl pot has it's place in motorsport but for a road car is overkill, BUT for many kit builders it's a hack to get over a badly designed solution by the manufacturer in the first place. If you're building the car from the ground up, just do it right the first time and get an in-tank swirl pot. If you have to retro-fit afterwards, an external swirl pot might be your only practical answer if you can't get one that fits your tank...

Yes, I reluctantly have a swirl pot, don't get me started on it

Haha, that made me genuinely LOL

You can pull up the land registry records for a small fee online. Search "land registry".

Planning applications are probably available on the relevant council website - depends where it's covered. Normally you can do a postcode search then wade through it all to see what's on the horizon.

It's worth finding out what zoning the surrounding land is in, this will dictate what can be done with it - that's not to say it can't change in the future but it should give you some guidance on what's *likely* (or not) to happen with the land. Again, the local council will have a policy and guidelines for planning permission - it will set out their rules/precedents for different zones of land.

I believe some members will attest to that. That's why I bought some marked, laminated screens. I've had one go already (my fault) and it was at least an excuse to verify the behaviour... which was as expected ie. no face full of glass....

bet the owner of the catering van love that dan lol.

I did actually chat with him nice chap. In all fairness, the fit and finish between a Caterham and a kit is night and day, but - well - you'd expect it paying that wouldn't you ! I suspect it handles better too...

It was indeed a most nice day. I learnt :

- never to expect the proprietor of a classic car museum to know the difference between a Triumph TR6 and a Robin Hood. I now question his validity to own said establishment and suspect he is in fact an alien that has adopted human form and is slowly infiltrating mankind, starting at Bourton-on-the-Water, the epicentre of european tourism.

- diesel, roundabout exits and cold, wet tyres are there to remind me why we should learn to instinctively react to oversteer

- Caffeine and Machine is a pretty solid business idea and I too must make a front door handle out of a 911 GT3RS camshaft and conrods

I found something appropriate to park next to...

See you at the Stonebridge in a bit - we'll skip breakfast but be with you before 10

Measure the lengths on the pedal between :

- pivot point to centre of the clevis pin operating on the brake cylinder rod

- pivot point to centre of pedal

Divide the big by the small, you've got your current pedal ratio

Piston diameter on the caliper end - I think standard Ford Girling single-pot sliding caliper might be 54mm?

Piston diameter on your new calipers, and how many actuating pistons there are, if it's more than 1. Might be 57mm for Mondeo?

Master cylinder diameter (bore) current... wassat on a Sierra?

...and you're happy with pedal effort/travel right now yes, so just happy to keep it roughly the same...?

I calculated all of these when swapping the brakes on the rally car, right down to piston sizes in the caliper. It's pretty simple really, just a swept volume calculation based on the diameter of the pistons at each end. If you know what the previous ratio was on the standard brakes (ie. you know the piston diameter on the calipers, and the diameter at the master cylinder end), then you can calculate a ratio. From there, we can work out that if you change the diameter at one end but want to maintain the ratio, you can work out what you need to change the other end to. Or if you're not happy with the ratio, and want more braking power for less effort (but more pedal travel) then you can tweak the ratio up or down to suit.

Do it at club night if you like?

Agreed, nothing wrong with the red part. Looping the cable round on itself and presumably leaving the cable interfacing directly on the clevis (ie. rubbing in the loop) sounds like the cause of the problem to me.

Aye might do... weather dependent/etc...

I have one of them, however its very location specific and not fitted to the car, but definitely stops you very quickly

Interesting - which model do you have....?

More like one of those automated low-speed braking systems, I think....

That's not a bad suggestion really, Rich, when you think about it - if you're ready to commit to an engine swap that involves an aftermarket ECU, why not just try the ECU route now on the existing engine and see if it resolves all the issues, in which case you've saved yourself a wealth of work. If not, well, you've at least done the hard part of the wiring/ECU ready for the engine swap itself...

Wind generators (little propellors), then you can class it a hybrid and pay zero road tax....

Last time I bought self-assemble style Goodridge fittings, you can get "copy" parts much, much cheaper than genuine Goodridge fittings. I pick mine up locally from a place called Nuneaton Hose & Fittings but I suspect not being local that won't really help with the added postage, you might as well go CBS. A good idea is to look around for local hydraulics shops and "pop in", so many times you can find places that will do you over-the-counter deals for cash. A necessary kit car building skill is most definitely "'ow to 'aggle"

Also a quick question. I am assuming these wiper arms and spray nozzles wont pass IVA?

Correct - the wipers are just missing the nut covers, but the nozzles certainly won't assuming they are contactable by the test sphere, which is almost certainly a definite. Cheap and easy-enough swap

Hats off to you on the radiator decision. Do it right, do it once, never fuss about it again. I am of course assuming your rad actually fits into the nosecone space, you also need to make sure you seal off the edges between radiator and nosecone so that air going into the front hole HAS to go through the radiator; it can't work it's way around it. Some thin alumnium sheet, some acrylic, or 4mm rubber sheet, anything will suffice . My build thread for the Zero has an example of what I did, I appreciate it won't be the same for the Exmo but it'll give you the idea.

edit: here you go, found some pics!

If you get the proper SAE-rated newer stuff it's fine (sorry, can't be arsed to walk into the shed and drag a length out to find it's rating right now!), but a lot of the older/cheaper rubber injection hose suffers what you describe. Buy from a trusted hose supplier who know what they're doing, or use PTFE lined/braided hose.

edit: found a build photo SAE J30R9 (or R7 for return lines)