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brumster

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Posts posted by brumster

  2. Land Owner Register

    in Chit chat

    Posted

    You can pull up the land registry records for a small fee online. Search "land registry".

    Planning applications are probably available on the relevant council website - depends where it's covered. Normally you can do a postcode search then wade through it all to see what's on the horizon.

    It's worth finding out what zoning the surrounding land is in, this will dictate what can be done with it - that's not to say it can't change in the future but it should give you some guidance on what's *likely* (or not) to happen with the land. Again, the local council will have a policy and guidelines for planning permission - it will set out their rules/precedents for different zones of land.

  3. Windscreen Marking

    in IVA

    Posted

    I believe some members will attest to that. That's why I bought some marked, laminated screens. I've had one go already (my fault) and it was at least an excuse to verify the behaviour... which was as expected :) ie. no face full of glass.... :)

    • Like 1

  5. Midlands Area Run Out Sunday 28Th October

    in Events

    Posted

    It was indeed a most nice day. I learnt :

    - never to expect the proprietor of a classic car museum to know the difference between a Triumph TR6 and a Robin Hood. I now question his validity to own said establishment and suspect he is in fact an alien that has adopted human form and is slowly infiltrating mankind, starting at Bourton-on-the-Water, the epicentre of european tourism.

    - diesel, roundabout exits and cold, wet tyres are there to remind me why we should learn to instinctively react to oversteer

    - Caffeine and Machine is a pretty solid business idea and I too must make a front door handle out of a 911 GT3RS camshaft and conrods

     

    I found something appropriate to park next to...

     

    post-901-0-92769100-1540758002_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1

  7. Brake And Clutch Cylinders

    in Mechanics

    Posted

    Measure the lengths on the pedal between :

    - pivot point to centre of the clevis pin operating on the brake cylinder rod

    - pivot point to centre of pedal

     

    Divide the big by the small, you've got your current pedal ratio ;)

     

    Piston diameter on the caliper end - I think standard Ford Girling single-pot sliding caliper might be 54mm?

    Piston diameter on your new calipers, and how many actuating pistons there are, if it's more than 1. Might be 57mm for Mondeo?

    Master cylinder diameter (bore) current... wassat on a Sierra?

  9. Brake And Clutch Cylinders

    in Mechanics

    Posted

    I calculated all of these when swapping the brakes on the rally car, right down to piston sizes in the caliper. It's pretty simple really, just a swept volume calculation based on the diameter of the pistons at each end. If you know what the previous ratio was on the standard brakes (ie. you know the piston diameter on the calipers, and the diameter at the master cylinder end), then you can calculate a ratio. From there, we can work out that if you change the diameter at one end but want to maintain the ratio, you can work out what you need to change the other end to. Or if you're not happy with the ratio, and want more braking power for less effort (but more pedal travel) then you can tweak the ratio up or down to suit.

     

    Do it at club night if you like?

  14. Superspecies Engine Swap

    in Engine

    Posted

    That's not a bad suggestion really, Rich, when you think about it - if you're ready to commit to an engine swap that involves an aftermarket ECU, why not just try the ECU route now on the existing engine and see if it resolves all the issues, in which case you've saved yourself a wealth of work. If not, well, you've at least done the hard part of the wiring/ECU ready for the engine swap itself...

  16. Braided Brake Hoses

    in Wanted

    Posted

    Last time I bought self-assemble style Goodridge fittings, you can get "copy" parts much, much cheaper than genuine Goodridge fittings. I pick mine up locally from a place called Nuneaton Hose & Fittings but I suspect not being local that won't really help with the added postage, you might as well go CBS. A good idea is to look around for local hydraulics shops and "pop in", so many times you can find places that will do you over-the-counter deals for cash. A necessary kit car building skill is most definitely "'ow to 'aggle" :)

  17. Robin Hood Exmo, From Barn To Iva

    in Build Threads

    Posted · Edited by brumster

    Also a quick question. I am assuming these wiper arms and spray nozzles wont pass IVA?

    Correct - the wipers are just missing the nut covers, but the nozzles certainly won't assuming they are contactable by the test sphere, which is almost certainly a definite. Cheap and easy-enough swap ;)

     

    Hats off to you on the radiator decision. Do it right, do it once, never fuss about it again. I am of course assuming your rad actually fits into the nosecone space, you also need to make sure you seal off the edges between radiator and nosecone so that air going into the front hole HAS to go through the radiator; it can't work it's way around it. Some thin alumnium sheet, some acrylic, or 4mm rubber sheet, anything will suffice ;). My build thread for the Zero has an example of what I did, I appreciate it won't be the same for the Exmo but it'll give you the idea.

     

    edit: here you go, found some pics!

     

     

    post-901-0-88317700-1540117095_thumb.jpg

    post-901-0-65735500-1540117102_thumb.jpg

  18. Smell Of Fuel

    in Mechanics

    Posted · Edited by brumster

    If you get the proper SAE-rated newer stuff it's fine (sorry, can't be arsed to walk into the shed and drag a length out to find it's rating right now!), but a lot of the older/cheaper rubber injection hose suffers what you describe. Buy from a trusted hose supplier who know what they're doing, or use PTFE lined/braided hose.

     

    edit: found a build photo :) SAE J30R9 (or R7 for return lines)

  19. Brakes

    in Mechanics

    Posted

    If you can't narrow down the one you have, all I can suggest is you measure the important bits with regards to how it fits to your car (bolt spacing/pattern, number of outlets you need) and find a friendly motor factor who can browse through his parts catalogue for you :)

  21. Robin Hood Exmo, From Barn To Iva

    in Build Threads

    Posted

    The rad really is a crap situation in the Exmo, because the front "butress" blocks half of it! See how it goes but in the end we fitted an alternative rad in the actual nosecone, at an angle, in front of the buttress. Still not ideal, but it worked... stick with what you have for now, see if it works, but if it doesn't you have another option at hand... ;)

  22. Spare Wheel Support

    in Fitting & bodywork

    Posted · Edited by brumster

    Yeah the stuff I had was maybe 3/4" hollow steel tubing, bent into a simple U shape, bolted up through the lower lip of the rear panel. By itself it wouldn't support a wheel as it would bend the lip under the weight, so you had a long length of threaded bar that went through the rear panel and lined up with a wheel nut hole on your spare wheel, and you clamped it up onto the back panel that way. The U support was arguably doing very little really, except supporting the number plate and light :)

  24. Robin Hood Exmo, From Barn To Iva

    in Build Threads

    Posted

    Welcome and congrats! I built an Exmo with my mate back in the 90s too so will try to help out where I can...

     

    Sadly the full IVA, the licence plate I believe was from the donor car. This one was never actually finished, Its never had repeaters and the electrics and interior were never finished.

    About the IVA, is there a reason people want the older Q plates rather than a 2018 plate? Surely that would add value to the car, but would that also mean it needs to adhere to 2018 emissions regulations? Something i'm sure would be difficult with a 34 year old engine.

     

    No real reason for Q over a normal reg - there is a general thinking that people "turn their nose up" at Q plates because it's a sure-fire indicator of a kit/reconstructed car versus anything genuine. It really is all up to you anyway; if it doesn't bother you, don't worry about it. If you've got no documentation proving the sourcing of the components, you'll be getting one anyway.

     

    I say that, but I heard a rumour that Q plates are rarely issued these days anyway, so it might be you still get an age-related plate.

     

    Emissions has nothing to do with the registration but the age of the engine. You should have little difficulty with a Pinto proving it's age, even if they don't accept the single donor story related to the J plate (not a Sierra at that age - so a single donor is unlikely). You can relate engine code to year fairly easily.

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