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brumster

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Posts posted by brumster

  1. Brakes

    in Mechanics

    Posted

    If you can't narrow down the one you have, all I can suggest is you measure the important bits with regards to how it fits to your car (bolt spacing/pattern, number of outlets you need) and find a friendly motor factor who can browse through his parts catalogue for you :)

  3. Robin Hood Exmo, From Barn To Iva

    in Build Threads

    Posted

    The rad really is a crap situation in the Exmo, because the front "butress" blocks half of it! See how it goes but in the end we fitted an alternative rad in the actual nosecone, at an angle, in front of the buttress. Still not ideal, but it worked... stick with what you have for now, see if it works, but if it doesn't you have another option at hand... ;)

  4. Spare Wheel Support

    in Fitting & bodywork

    Posted · Edited by brumster

    Yeah the stuff I had was maybe 3/4" hollow steel tubing, bent into a simple U shape, bolted up through the lower lip of the rear panel. By itself it wouldn't support a wheel as it would bend the lip under the weight, so you had a long length of threaded bar that went through the rear panel and lined up with a wheel nut hole on your spare wheel, and you clamped it up onto the back panel that way. The U support was arguably doing very little really, except supporting the number plate and light :)

  6. Robin Hood Exmo, From Barn To Iva

    in Build Threads

    Posted

    Welcome and congrats! I built an Exmo with my mate back in the 90s too so will try to help out where I can...

     

    Sadly the full IVA, the licence plate I believe was from the donor car. This one was never actually finished, Its never had repeaters and the electrics and interior were never finished.

    About the IVA, is there a reason people want the older Q plates rather than a 2018 plate? Surely that would add value to the car, but would that also mean it needs to adhere to 2018 emissions regulations? Something i'm sure would be difficult with a 34 year old engine.

     

    No real reason for Q over a normal reg - there is a general thinking that people "turn their nose up" at Q plates because it's a sure-fire indicator of a kit/reconstructed car versus anything genuine. It really is all up to you anyway; if it doesn't bother you, don't worry about it. If you've got no documentation proving the sourcing of the components, you'll be getting one anyway.

     

    I say that, but I heard a rumour that Q plates are rarely issued these days anyway, so it might be you still get an age-related plate.

     

    Emissions has nothing to do with the registration but the age of the engine. You should have little difficulty with a Pinto proving it's age, even if they don't accept the single donor story related to the J plate (not a Sierra at that age - so a single donor is unlikely). You can relate engine code to year fairly easily.

  10. Windscreen Marking

    in IVA

    Posted

    In my opinion, no. If you want a windscreen, then it makes far more sense to put the necessary related items (wipers, heater, squibbers) in place while you are building, it is so much easier and you're not then ripping the car apart again after IVA to retrofit it all. There is no challenge to putting a car through IVA with a windscreen bar the rear view mirror vibration that I encountered (and ultimately fixed!)...

  11. Windscreen Marking

    in IVA

    Posted

    You've probably seen it, but this was a thread I raised before I built...

     

    http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=41972

     

    I agree, it's missing the numerals, but it does have TEMPERED written on it clearly. And, for what it's worth, on my IVA I never noticed the tester take a long hard look at the marking anyway. Given it's almost a mandatory 1st fail on IVA anyway, I'd be tempted to run with it as-is and if it fails you can remove the glass as a template and get one made up with the correct markings, refit and retest.

  12. Obp Pedal Box (Adjustable)

    in For sale

    Posted

    At the moment it's Sierra-like in that it pulls in, so the cable goes into the front perpendicular like most RHs. You can see in one of the pics, the lug on the pedal is at the top so it pulls it back towards the driver.

     

    I suppose if you wanted it to pull up you could either cut the lug off and move it/weld another one on, further round... I'd be more tempted to make some sort of roller wheel mechanism outside of the box that you could run the inner cable around to point it in the direction you wanted... maybe?

  13. Midlands Area Run Out Sunday 14Th October

    in Events

    Posted

    Probably the area meet gives you more chance to chat and learn about stuff, but even on this run-out I suspect there will be breaks for lunch and a natter... but yeah, I'd recommend one of the regional club nights more for that really... unless you bagsy a lift in a member's car and chat with them while out on the run :)

  14. Led Headlights

    in Electrics

    Posted · Edited by brumster

    Not sure how they test spread or intensity - my last MOT on my tin-top and they just seem to check height, unless that also somehow measures the other stuff?

     

    That gizmo-on-runners thing that they position in front of each headlight has markings in it, the tester looks at the spread of light inside the unit against these markers and checks that the pattern conforms to the requirements. It's not just height they're checking (or should be checking ;) )

     

    edit: here you go, if you're interested ;)

  16. Standard Cars?

    in Kit car related

    Posted · Edited by brumster

    ^ What he said. I would never even contemplate ringing Direct Line (et al) for a quote :) assuming that's what you've done. If a kit specialist is asking daft questions like "is it standard" then I'd try another; like you say, what on earth is the measure of "standard" :D !?

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