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Graham B

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Posts posted by Graham B

  1. I have tried several senders,all to no avail. I changed the solder terminal and got it to work the right way round, but accurate it isn't. It's fine to say the tanks full ( not at all important) but empty comes up with 5 inches of fuel left in the tank. The float is on the bottom, or very close. I'll get round to finding an answer some day. I don't let it get empty!!! As I can measure with a dipstick since moving the filler to the top surface of the boot cover.

  2. Best way to upgrade is to fit the 16v head , as did Les Wilsher (member). I think he documented it all....I never found any upgrades that made sense while fitted to my 2B. It was quite a handful as it was...

  3. In which case, scrap the original brackets , which were prone to snapping and design some new ones with a little more flexability. There are several points you can use to mount them. Caliper bolts & main pinch bolt.

    Many other manufacturers use flat bar over the tyre -allows the wings to be closer to the tyre.. etc.

    have fun...

  4. Sorry to see you having problems. My first "no compression" was a burnt out valve. Your piston looks a lot worse. My rebuild is now complete , after rebore, pistons, journals , --the works. I hope it flies as before !!. Good luck with your refurb. I hope the bores are rescue-able.. My bigger pistons cost an arm and a leg.. (gave me 40cc more). Maybe your compression was a little too high for the turbo? Graham B

  5. The pedal box always was a problem. The fitment depended on how you made the gearbox cover.. On yours it probably is wider than it needs to be.--thus less room for the feet.

    Throttle pedal was mounted seperately.

    Clutch pedal was on the box -spacers removed as Pete says. The Brake pedal was cut and shut around the steering column --and reinforced !!

  6. Well, after my failure to get the car to Stonleigh, I set to with meter and spyglass to determine why I couldnt get running again.

    I had dashboard lights, wipers, headlamps etc. engine turned over.

    Meter showed power to ECU ---funny , no sound of petrol pump ( Nice prompt Florin !)

    Checked circuits --a bit difficult as the main loom was Ford, engine loom was Nissan --wires change colour, relays are not quite what they seem --when is an Ignition relay not an Ignition relay? --when its called Engine mamangement!

     

    Put power to fure feeding petrol pump --whirring noise. Pump relay call from ECU, correct !! --Ah!! no 12V .

     

    Power from the ignition switch --- I haven't got a kill switch anymore, I removed it and taped it up ( didn't I?? ) no power at the relay

    --Yes, there are the old kill switch wires, I am sure they should be in a connector !! --Bingo Brmm Brmm again. How? , when ? , how did I get home and park on the drive, before it wouldnt start again --a mystery.

     

    So I'll refit a proper switch and remember the symptoms.

     

    Only 200 more miles of running in..

    See you all soon.

     

    Graham B

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  7. Rather than move the regulator, why not move the coil packs forward. Its only a case of extending the wires. The HT leads can then come back to the engine, rather than forward. There is another orientation..90 degrees to the two tried !!

     

    graham B

  8. Congrats and Best Wishes, Now you find out what needs doing when you dont have any time !!!

    carole's list will be endless......just joking....it reduces after a couple of years.

     

    Graham

  9. I dont wear ear defenders and never have.

    The 2B is quite quiet enough.

    My exhaust has always been on the passenger side.. Ford I4 and Nissan CA18DET.

    I use used motorcycle cans - both race and standard have been fitted.

    Side screens cut out a lot of the motorway roar. the noisiest is when the roof is on --rarely!!

     

    Graham B

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