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S7 Pinto Turbo Conversion Project


dandanfireman

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Hi there guys, i'll get you up to date with what the overall plan is first and then what i'm up to so far. Then i'll list my current problem.

 

The idea is to move the radiator into the nose cone rather than behind the crossmember. A cosworth intercooler will then be placed where the radiator was.

The current pinto lump will be replaced by the pinto turbo already done and dropped in, very simple.

Next the turbo exhaust manifold is to be fitted, but the turbo will be in the way of the brake servo so this will have to be removed and a cunning plan to reposition or use a remote one in its place. Not sure yet.

 

Ok what i've done so far: I've removed the radiator and positioned it in the nose cone. Using flexi pipes to allow for the movement and to cope with a different more efficient cooling rad for the turbo system.

I've removed the exhaust system completely so i could offer the turbo manifold up to the current engine so i knew what was in the way.

 

Ok now for the problem, as expected the servo is in a problem area and will have to be removed and replaced with something else. But the real problem i wasn't expecting is that the turbo and exhaust downpipe come in a position that is so far towards the bulkhead it actually goes into the bulkhead. Right now it is 440mm from the exhaust port to the bulkhead and it needs about 500mm to allow for the curve of the downpipe.

So my question is how do i get this extra room? Can I move the engine forward? But that will move the gearstick position also so how do I confront that? If I do try that how much of the propshaft should be engaged in the gearbox to allow for having to move it all 60-70 mm forward.

 

Any ideas guys would be most helpful. Thanks in advance.

 

Dan

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Guest scrabster

hi,as regards to the brake servo,the zero doesnt use one you could do away with it but you would need to get the pedal pressure right.i think its about 6 to 1.a quick call to richard at gbs should confirm this.hth.good luck with the conversion.

jess.

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Guest salty_monk

You just need a longer pushrod ro remove Servo, Tiger do them. Moving the engine forward will upset weight a little but I don't see why you can do it... might require some mods to move the gearbox forward too as you say.

To get around moving the gearstick forward bend a new one & weld it on, something like they used in the old Austin Healeys (except much shorter!)

 

Dan :)

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Guest yokel

The idea is to move the radiator into the nose cone rather than behind the crossmember. A cosworth intercooler will then be placed where the radiator was.

 

Don't wish to put a damper on the idea, but as I read it your intercooler will be behind the rad? that will have the effect of warming the intake air not cooling it, producing less power, probably doing away with any gains you make by fitting a turbo.

 

HTH

 

Tony

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Guest Dan_Beeston

I'm in the middle of a Pinto Turbo conversion in a 2B currently.........

 

I'm working round the servo/turbo clash by using an Escort Mk2 bias box that put the master cylinders inside the bulkhead, rather than in the engine bay. (with the added advantage of bias adjustable brakes!)

 

To get the turbo in the right place I picked up a custom fabricated manifold that puts the turbo mount plate approx central to the ports, rather than towards the rear of the engine. Plenty of clearence to the bulkhead, it's not pretty but looks like it should work

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re the servo and cylinders

mayby think about the ka and fit the brake master and servo the other side .

i have achieved this with the lightweight auto .

 

graham

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Hi again guys, okay after much deliberation and thoughts about the brake system and mechanical mods I think the best way forward is to go remote servo for the brakes. Alter the pedal direct to a standard cortina mk3 master cylinder or equivalent as Dan Beeston has advised please state again exactly what you're running Dan so I know what to look for.

So i'm thinking new master cylinder to remote servo to 3 or 4 way splitter to wheels. Any advice there would be great if you think i'm wrong at all.

 

The intercooler can only be positioned in one place sadly and that is the spare room left from the radiator, I have seen this done in many Pinto Turbo S7's i.e the deluxe and also the cosworth turbo versions. If I have a problem running hot air then i'll have to mod the nose cone to get a direct air flow to it.

 

Haven't got a clue what i'm going to do about the exhaust system yet I now understand seeing manifolds with the turbo mounted on the front ports doh. I think a case of the power of staring and hope it will solve itself, failing that the power of ignoring it will do until i find it a real problem lol.

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Guest gordon_macnab

Hi Dan,

 

Nothing that's not been done before, see attached pic I have the cossie intercooler mounted above the radiator in the nose cone so both get cool air. Also see the escort pedal box that moves the master cylinders out of the way. For the exhaust the cossie has the turbo fitted midways and the exhaust wasn't really a problem to route through the standard hole in the side panel.

 

Cheers

 

Gordon

post-96-1236270253_thumb.jpg

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Guest Dan_Beeston

My master cylinder set-up is similar to Gordon's above, using an Escort Mk2 bias adjustable pedal box (think it's a Burton Power BRK003), although I have had to chop the pedals around quite a bit!

 

Also currently trying to fit a Sierra cosworth intercooler where Gordon's is, but the 2B is narrower here so it's not just slotting in nicely! <_<

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Hi

I have fitted a sierra cosworth engine into my 2b, to get round the exhaust problem I went to fusion engineering and he made me a down pipe to fit in the space. Next i used a cosworth servo this has a pump to produce as so does any turbo engined car as far as I know,

To get the servo to work you will need the abs block or it will not work [ servo £40 ] there is no need to wire in the abs .

The intercooler on mine is in front of engine very close to the bottom engine pully and low down.

you have to cut bits of the intercooler to make it fit.

The intercooler is ducted with a scoop that forces air through it.

hope this helps

Paul.

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Woooo Hoooo after removing all the high temp tape from the downpipe I have managed to squeeze it in place although it really is quite a squeeze to say the least. So the exhaust and moving the engine and box forward are no longer a problem.

 

The brakes have now been totally bled and the servo and master cylinder removed this has allowed me to offer the turbo manifold and downpipe in place and this will work nicely as long as the new master cylinder does not clash.

 

From Dan Beestons quotes about having to chop the pedals I am thinking more along the lines of either the escort mk2 or cortina mk3 master cylinder or a burton one so that I don't have to do too much work around the pedal box as I'm trying to keep the project as simple as possible.

 

Can anyone confirm if the older Anglia or Corsair master cylinders will work when attached to the same clevis pin on the cortina pedal box as these seem far shorter than the mk2 escort or mk3 cortina ones and would stay inside the bulkhead far easier.

 

Many thanks for yr advice so far guys.

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