More Brake Q’s

[baj25]

I’ve failed to find anywhere that still does seal kits for sierra master brake cylinders (I believe it is a Girling steel tube type, 22 bore, 2000cc 82-88). Anyone any suggestions for supplier? Not easy to find new either, and 100 notes...

I don’t have access to a lathe, so I thought of using 8mm studding as a pedal to master cylinder push rod (with servo removed) - any comments re suitability? TIA, Brian

[Guest shaggy]

I’ve failed to find anywhere that still does seal kits for sierra master brake cylinders (I believe it is a Girling steel tube type, 22 bore, 2000cc 82-88). Anyone any suggestions for supplier? Not easy to find new either, and 100 notes...

I don’t have access to a lathe, so I thought of using 8mm studding as a pedal to master cylinder push rod (with servo removed) - any comments re suitability? TIA, Brian

Brian,

 

try dodgsons in Preston. they always find stuff for me if they don't have it on the shelf.

 

Si

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Brian in all the years I have been involved with cars I have NEVER had any sucess re-sealing a master cylinder.

 

I am sure I only paid about 40 quid for my new one last year from my freindly motor factor I wil get you a price if you like.

 

I would be a bit cautious of using a length of threaded bar for a push rod, if you contact "Tiger" they are less than a tenner and you know it will fit the bill.

[Guest chris brown]

I agree with Ian. Fit a new/re-con cylinder and a Tiger push-rod. The first emergency stop you do and the (soft) studding will bend

[baj25]

Thanks for replies Gents. My local place has always been able to get things in the past, maybe I need to try some others. Very kind of you to offer to enquire Ian, I’ll throw the net a bit wider (maybe even as far as Preston!) before I put you to any trouble.

I was considering the threaded rod option in case I end up with a KA M/C, in which case the Tiger rod wouldn’t be suitable.

Even though I’ve no plans to use the car in the next few days, it’s horrible knowing I can’t just jump in and go! Ta again, Brian

[baj25]

Well, a ring around all the local places has drawn a blank. Brakes Int'l do it for about 115 delivered, genuine original. Any better options gratefully received before I bite the bullet! brian

[BigLee]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-SIERRA-SAPPHIRE-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-/140522852944?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b7d09250#ht_627wt_882

 

is the only think I can suggest

[Guest shaggy]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-SIERRA-SAPPHIRE-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-/140522852944?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b7d09250#ht_627wt_882

 

is the only think I can suggest

Its a bargain that Brian. Get it bought before someone buys it as a cheap spare (like jetskijase for example)

 

Si

[baj25]

The link is to a different type to the one I need. For some reason the cast body cylinders are much cheaper than the steel tube type that I have (like half the price...), especially the 2 outlet types (mine has 3 outlets). I'm after 22mm bore as well to get a bit more power with the servo off. Many thanks for trying though. Bri

[fry61]

You need a smaller bore M/C to increase pressure for same effort;that's why we changed to Ka M/C when we found the servo fouled the inlet manifold.(CVH engine)

[chris n]

brake parts sell Sierra M/C form about £45

 

www.brakeparts.co.uk

[baj25]

Just a thought. Existing M/C has three outlets- one to rear, one to front left and one to front right. If I got a M/C with 2 ports, could I take one to both fronts by teeing it? All the 2 port M/Cs I've seen have had diagonal split across brakes rather than front -rear. Are all the threaded connections the same on different sierra M/Cs? I seem to have the most expensive version of M/C but others obviously seem to get away with cheaper versions, so maybe it makes sense to change. Thanks again for input, Bri

[richyb66]

I had the same problem as I've got the 3 outlet pressed steel Girling cylinder too. Not sure why these should be twice the price of the cast cylinders but it would seem that they are and the differences in the mounting positions mean they aren't interchangeable.

 

As it was the only part of the system that wasn't new I bit the bullet and bought a new one which was about £80 on the basis that I wasn't certain that a seal kit would be easy to source or do the job.

 

However I just found this http://www.shawsmotorsport.co.uk/cubecat/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=473 which might be worth a punt if your cylinder bore looks in good condition. I agree that fitting seals is a waste of time of the bore is damaged, but I wouldn't have a problem sticking a set of seals in an working cylinder just to freshen it up.

[agent_zed]

I hope i'm correct in saying that it would be a bad idea to have both of the fronts together off the same output. I think they normally have it diagonal so that if one fails one of the fronts and one of the backs still work so you slow down in a controlled way. If you had front and back and one failed you'd have all the braking at the front or back. Although i guess this could still happen to a certain degree with a 3 way system as the one to the back could fail leaving the 2 fronts.

 

hope i'm not talking rubbish. can anyone else confirm my thoughts?

[baj25]

Thanks for input Gents. Bit the bullet and got the same as I have now, bit steep but makes for straightforward installation. If I went for a different type, I wasn't sure about reservior mounting or fitting to bulkhead, or the front-rear split system, so stumped up the 40 or 50 extra for piece of mind. In case anyone is worrying about me driving behind them, ordered a tigger push rod as well Thanks again, Bri