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Non Servo Breaks


gomatthome

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i Have recently finished (almost) my zero build and took it out for a short spin for a test.

 

My old 2b had the servo but the zero dispenses with the servo. Not having driven without a servo before i am not sure whats normal in terms of the pressure you need to apply to the breaks. I have to press very hard not sure if this is normal or whether I have i set up my breaks incorrectly.

 

I know its a difficult thing to describe in writing but any comments on what is the amout of pressure needed when not using a servo assisted system would be appreciated.

 

 

 

Phil

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It's all going to depend on bore of your Zero master cylinder; we use a Ka m/cylinder in Florin & both my wife & I find the brakes require a firm foot but we can still apply enough pressure to lock the rears.

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Yes it requires more effort, but there are a couple of things you need to check too.

What is the pedal ratio? the length of pedal below the pivot point should ideally be at least 5.5 times the length of the part above the pivot that the push rod attaches too.

The zero set up used to be about 4:1 so not ideal.

Plus some decent pads give more progressive braking such as mintex 1144 pads will improve the feel

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i got it to work well on my 2b. connected the master cylinder push rod approx 15mm above the pivot, any higher = poor brakes i also fitted mintex 1144 front pads. That made the brakes on the B great. if it would stop the 2b a zero should be no prob. got a pic if u want it.

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Guest robinj66

i have no servo in my S7 (standard sierra m/c and calipers/drums) - the first thing to note is that new pads etc will take a few miles to bed in. Also ensure the pads are correctly fitted ( :vava: don't ask how i know). Now it only needs alittle more effort than with a servo

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Hi

 

The standard zero brakes setup is more than adequate for normal use, given the average weight of a zero is about 560Kg, they will need to be bedded in, and they will always feel different to a servo assisted car giving more feedback as to what is actually happening, but I would not say they require any undue extra effort to operate.

 

They can be a bit of a pig to bleed though, any air will effect the feel and operation. Usually has to be re-bleed after the first drive, unless you are lucky, and forget various bleeding tools on the market, unless you have a professional pressure bleeder, they don't seem to shift the fluid fast enough, the old method is best.

 

I would certainly NOT modify anything without talking to the factory, you can live with poor performance but you don't live very long with poor brakes.

 

Regards

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thanks think the 240 but will check first then order

 

Nb got the chance to put car over test pit and found that the connections to the rear break drums were damp so this might also be causing breaks not to function to full effect. Have tightened up just need to bleed and try again.

 

If that does not work will alter the pivot point of the break pedal as suggested.

 

thanks for the suggestions guy's

 

 

 

Phil

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just fitted 1144s from greenstuff on all 4 corners this evening. They've not bedded in yet (only done 10miles), but even still they are vastly outperforming the greenstuff, straight out of the box. A world apart.

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