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Recent Iva For 2B Subk


PaulF2B
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Hi All,

Just been through my first IVA this week with my 2B SubK at VOSA Derby, afraid it failed, but I think most first time self builds do, actually one of the guys there said; even many of the Westfield factory builds fail first time.

The test started at 8:00am and lasted over 3 hours followed by about another hour while all the paperwork was sorted.

 

But at least I have a reasonable list of issues to fix (about 19 in all).

 

Here's some of the points they picked up that are worth watching out for:

 

The first issue was a bit of a fuel leak between the tank (standard 60L sierra) and the filler pipe, I think this catches many of us out as the first time I fully filled the tank (a requirement for the test) was on the morning of the test sitting on the trailer, we all tend to work with a couple of can fulls of fuel in the tank during the build. So I need to drain out some fuel and refit a new seal.

 

The next issue we spotted backing the car off the trailer, one of the brake lights had failed, was working fine when we loaded it, so must have got shaken up on the trailer (was a bit tight going over Swarkstone Bridge!), so may be worth taking some spare bulbs for the test. All other lighting was fine.

 

The emissions went through fine, next up checking all the build quality, sharp edges etc. The bolts I used for the harness mountings were HT Steel 7/16 UNF the standard for seatbelts, but mine had not got the telltale 8.8 (or higher) on the heads, as I also did not have documents proving they were HT they will need replacing. The only other thing that needs replacing on the interior was the gear knob, I had a Chrome Golf ball style knob, I need to replace it with a standard ford one for the re-test as the dimples were just too sharp.

 

Also on the harnesses, the back edges of the upper mounts need to meet the 2.5mm radius so I need to fit covers or some edging. There is also an edge on the plastic of the fog and reversing lights I need to round off.

 

I will need to raise the headrests as they do not currently raise high enough, so will probably need to weld some longer rods to them. The head rest has to be high enough to support the head not just the neck as mine did.

 

The brake tests all went fine until the handbrake was tested, it seems the O/S rear lever was sticking so only the N/S was working effectively, something to investigate.

 

There were a couple of things picked up on the front end steering / suspension, the brackets underneath the anti roll bar (holding the rear rubbers) were not tight up to the floor of the car (a few mm gap each side), I couldn't tighten the bolts any more as it would crush the rubber, so I will need to fit some spacers (or lots of washers). Also on the front hubs I have fitted spacers to clear the wheels of the calipers, but this did not leave enough of the stud left for the nuts to fit on, then only went through about half the nut. Generally all bolts need to come through a nut with at least a couple of threads to spare. So I need to fit longer studs to the hubs or different spacers with extension studs.

 

The front brake host was not adequately supported as it went through a grommeted hole in the bulkhead, so I plan to get some new hoses made up with integral support brackets, also the bolts holding on the front calipers had no locking device, I need to use some threadlock and then make sure I take the tube/ bottle with me to the retest so they can verify it is OK.

 

The fuel pipe in the engine bay needs shortening a bit to stop it touching some of the edges of components (Distributor vacuum connection) and some of the wiring looms need moving away from the fuel pipe too.

 

The battery +Ve lead was too long and unsecured out to the starter motor and needed a cover to the terminal to protect it (from dropped spanners etc), so shorter lead and a rubber cover will sort that one.

 

Next was to take the car outside, the examiner drove it round the block and verified the steering self centering was fine and verified the mirrors were all OK, but afraid it just failed on the noise came out at around 103/ 104 dB, so I will need to find a baffle to attenuate the sound, surprising as it does not sound that loud.

 

 

I think that's about it, a fair list for me to work through and a very fair test, the examiners at Derby VOSA were very knowledgeable and helpful throughout the test, giving some good advice on how I can resolve the issues.

 

Now just need to get together a bit of a shopping list for Stoneleigh at the weekend, I plan to be there Sunday so hope to meet many of you all there, fingers crossed for some fine weather! :)

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not too many things by the sound of it so thats good.

 

one bit that i find strange is the caliper bolts having to have a locking mechanism showing. Standard ford bolts have a blue locking compound on them normally so its weird they are questioning them specifically. But i guess take it that its a good thing they are checking everything thoroughly.

 

I got picked up on having to put crush tubes into the rear suspension top mount tubes. Had to take a picture to show him i'd done it.

 

well done

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Thanks all for your comments, I think my target has to be to get on the road for the Donnington show at the end of August, then maybe a trip over to the Waterside Inn :)

 

They are very careful on anything that is safety related, checking for Nylocs or double nutting on all critical bolts, also ensuring all bolts are long enough to have a few threads coming through. Any Ford blue locking compound from the original bolts had long since worn away over the years so it was a good point I had not considered.

 

Cheers

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mmm it has just made me re-check the IVA manual and we don't have to use 7/16 UNF we can use metric bolts.

I know traditionally seatbelts have always been fitted with a 7/16 UNF but It is probably easier to use a M10 which will be easy to get with a 8.8 stamping.

 

The book says:

"Bolts used in structural areas should be of grade 8.8 or better. Such bolts will be marked 8.8 or 12.9 on the hexagonal head, however, cap-head bolts or 7/16" ( 11mm ) UNF seat belt anchorage bolts (with an anodised finish) not marked in this way may normally be considered to be of equivalent strength. Bolts should be M8 or larger."

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Brilliant, that's a laugh about the plastic edge on the reverse and fog lights! How far are you allowed to drive backwards?! Are your harnesses mounted to the robin hood mountings on the upper box section or have you re-located?

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The upper mountings are the standard Robin Hood 4 tubes welded to the cross member, that was fine, seems I just need to use the correct bolts.

Checking my bolts they only had 1 radial line so from Phil's link that must be below a grade 5, I'll just replace with a Metric 8.8 and all should be fine.

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