Brakes Binding When Hot

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Like Nigel says repair kits for brakes are false economy, never fitted one with much success .

New are cheap enough.

 

There is a massive difference between removed servo and trying with vacuum disconnected.

With servo still fitted you are pushing the rod into the vacuum tank, compressing the servo then a push rod on the servo pushes into the brake master cylinder, if that makes sense.

 

If you do remove the servo, the cylinder just bolts to the mount that the servo is bolted to, you just need a different push rod.

 

"Tiger racing" sell them by mail order for around a tender last time I looked.

 

HTHs.

Edited March 26, 2015 by Ian & Carole

[Guest mdav1970]

I guess it must be this one http://www.tigerracing.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59&products_id=279

[Bob Tucker]

Give em a ring......it could be this one....

http://www.tigerracing.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59&products_id=278

[Dave R]

i would say its the 2nd one.... i seem to remember just using a bit of studding on mine

[speedtripledan]

Just taking the servo off will leave you with scary brakes ! I did it to my 2b, i had to put m1144 mintex pads in to get any kind of braking from the sierra pedal box - servo. In the end i changed the pedal box to a zero one this gave a better pedal ratio which was great from there on.

[Guest 2b cruising]

The pedal should travel about 1" just on he return spring and then it applies the brakes. This should be done without sevo power so stop engine and pump the brakes a couple of times to rid of the vacuum.

A lot of people on the site push people into removing there servo's. If your preference is with servo just keep it.

If you completely remove and block the vacuum pipe you can have a few runs without it to see how you feel. Important to stop the vacuum leaking as this will give a very week mixture and horrible running.

[cb750]

I was recommended to change the bore size of the master cylinder when removing the master cylinder. I fitted a Fiat 132 cylinder but I did have to machine up a new brake rod which I made adjustable for length and also a conversion mounting plate for the cylinder. Still have to try out the system on the road in actual driving conditions ( my wife still doesn't fancy not having any servo!!)

[fry61]

We run with a Ford Ka master cylinder & no servo ( standard Sierra on the 4 corners ) stopping is fine & my wife thinks so too.

[Guest mdav1970]

Sounds like the way forward, might pop to the local breakers tomorrow, always has Ford Ka's in. Any age of Ka? and is it just the master cylinder with reservior. Will i still need the shorter pushrod?

[fry61]

Not sure if models of M/c vary --- did need to make a wedge shaped adaptor plate as the mounting angle is different for the Ka M/c. Push -rod was made from silver steel rod , not sure of length ( 4+ years have passed ) If making own rod --ensure it doesn't bind on side of cylinder when pushed fully into M/c & as above a little slack so M/c piston returns fully.

[Guest Ian & Carole]

The one Bob Tucker has shown is the one I used.

The rest of my system is as it came off the Sierra when I built the car.

[Guest mdav1970]

Taken servo off and bolted M/C direct to pedal box. I got the pushrod off Tiger Racing, which they sent 1st class next day delivery for me which was super good of them. However I have had to cut it down by 40mm so it fits with about an inch of free movement in the pedal before the slacks taken out of the rod. Only managed to try it in my driveway so far due to the downpour of rain over the weekend, i'm sure Staffordshire is the wettest county in the land.

 

Will try it tonight on the road and see what its like, can always swap servo back if i dont likey.

[Bob Tucker]

Be patient with it....it feels very odd at first, but it is much more progressive

than using a servo.