Sliding Pillar Upgrade Instructions

[knights_templar]

I understand they put tubes over the tie rods weld them in place and a cut down bolt to provide the ball joint thread.

 

 

Haven't seen their add where it states "everything you need", that is clearly wrong. Perhaps you should have words with them.

[richardm6994]

I had to change Marcus's steer rack to one with extensions.

I sympathize with your frustration, it could be worth GBS updating their literature to state what bits are excluded from their kit and you need to source yourself.

[Guest Jonathan.Ritchie]

Yeah it wasn't advertiesed online or anything like that it's just when I asked over the phone what all I would need I was told that it was the full kit and everything I needed should be in it.

 

I maybe just miss-understood and they maybe just meant suspension related parts like all the suspension fixings and bushes etc and any steering parts that would be effected would be extra.

 

No harm done anyway I've got a set of extensions ordered from them that should be here tomorrow.

 

It was more that I'd planned with my mate to get cracking at it on Sat so just a bit annoying that I've found another bit that I need to get 2 days before we were meant to crack on with it

[Guest Jonathan.Ritchie]

So.. had a good go at fitting the kit on Sat. Got the main front beam fully welded on and then spot welded the rest of the brackets so that I could offer up the wishbones for size etc.

 

I've noticed that the front beam is quite wide in comparrison to the rest of the brackets. I'm assuming that this is to get a bit of play for fitting the wishboned to the rear bracket. I'm wondering if I need to use some of the washers in the kit for packing the gaps between the bushes and the bracket? I'd day that there is about 20mm play between the bush and the side of the beam??

 

Just wondering if anyone else has this and what they used to remmedy it?

 

also the bushes are VERY tight into the holes on the wishbones to the point that whilst fitting them some of the poly actually came off is this normal?

 

I got the steering rack extensions through and richard from GBS gave me a phone to give me some fitting tips depending on my steering rack depending if it is the metro rack or the original sierra rack that I have fitted. I'm strugging to get the old track rod ends off though. does anyone have any tips that could help me? I've bassically just put some 3 in 1 oil into the threads and left it over the weekend hoping that that will loosen the threads a little to try it later on.

[knights_templar]

You are right the wishbone need shim washers to pack it out.

 

You really need to file a leading edge into the wishbone tubes, but if their in and tight there really isn't a problem. Just cut off the excess.

 

If the oil doesn't do it, the next thing is heat.

[Guest 2b cruising]

With regards to the rod ends it is not uncommon for them to be siezed.

To remove them undo the locknuts, extend the side you are working on with the steering wheel and push the convoluted rack dust cover right up the shaft away from the rod end. Hold this back with the clip that is already on it.

You should not need a lot of heat so a decent size gas blowtorch will be good enough.

Using a new rod end you should be able to tell how far the ends are screwed onto the rods so heat this amount of the old rod end up.

Then using a pipe wrench or mole grips with unworn teeth to hold the rod, turn the end off the rod with a spanner.

Clean up the threads and any marks you ave made on the rods and that's it.

Copper slip internal and external threads before rebuilding. This help any future adjustments.

[Guest Jonathan.Ritchie]

That's perfect thanks

[Bob Tucker]

The shims are to allow fine adjustment of caster

[Guest 2b cruising]

The shims are to allow fine adjustment of caster

Only if the front and rear brackets have the same amount of gap in the same places.

If as you said no gap on the rear one, the way to fit is fit the rear first, then shim out the front one to match.

No undue stress should be put on either bracket by miss matched gaps.

This could lead to a number of problems. ie, split end tubes or eyes on wishbones. This fault was mentioned on the forum not long ago.

Cracked brackets, bent arms on wishbones.

Just keep in mind that the stress is multiplied every time you hit a bump in the road.

The arms should move freely up and down when tightened to suitable torque.

Edited November 30, 2015 by 2b cruising

[Guest Jonathan.Ritchie]

Yeah what I've noticed is to match up with the cutouts on the new steel panels I end up with the wishbones fitting but in the front support they wishbone fits more to the rear side of the car leaving a gap of about 10mm on the bracket on the forward side.. Would this be ok to shim to give good support of the wishbone from here?

 

I essentially fitted the forward facing brackets and then with bushes intact offered up the wishbones to these brackets and fitted the rear brackets to where it sat on the chassis with the wishbones fitted in place and then spot welded the rear side brackets into place and everything seems to fit fine exept for the 10mm gap on the top bracket neerest the front of the car

[Guest 2b cruising]

Yes the gap should be shimmed but not to a point of getting it to tight.

Ideally if you lift the wishbone it should stay. When you try or move it it should move up and down easily without force or effort.

There should be no forward/rear linier movement.

[Guest evildave]

This looks to be a right pain of a job, and i was thinking of going ifs next year.

My problem is that i cannot fit a brace behind the radiator and the 'nose' has been removed, looks like i'll have to start boxing in rails to get some strength, will put plans on hold for now!

 

Good luck with your conversion, you seem to be making good progress

[knights_templar]

Versions of the B require the rad, and possibly other items, to be repositioned.

 

Some end up mounting the rad horizontally with ducting to get around the problem.

[Bob Tucker]

My Jigtec conversion has no cross chassis tubes.

All the wishbone brackets are welded to the top & bottom

chassis rails, and it uses a lengthened dummy strut,

which gives better geometry anyway.

The X chassis member gives plenty of cross chassis stiffness.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Mr evil. Don't be put off by the work needed.

The after benefits well outdo the efforts involved in fitting them.

Also in general terms, the value of car goes up.

Edited December 10, 2015 by 2b cruising