Over Heating

[tractor]

after my over heating problems on the stilton run i have changed head gasket and head fitted new radiator and shortened and re routed pipework just got to fit intercooler tomorrow then ready for a test drive when it stops raining

 

[Andi]

Looks like you`ve gone the whole hog to fix the issue.. Don`t blame you

[richyb66]

Have you got a header tank at a high position to give any trapped air a chance of getting out. When I looked at your car it looked like a closed system and the rad cap was only around the same level as the top of the head. If there's any air in the coolant it needs somewhere to escape to and at the moment that doesn't seem to be the case.

 

I think the ideal would be a header tank that has a pressured cap and a connection on the bottom that's tee'd in to the cooling system so that the hose and header always have coolant in them and the air should hopefully rise to the highest point.

[tractor]

yes fitting a header tank is one of my aims but up until now i have never had a problem with the way it is set up

[speedtripledan]

I run without header tank without any issues, I found the problems I had were all related to the raceline water rail being poorly designed Binned that for a retro ford rail and had zero problems sense. Using a triple core alloy rad as well.

[keith kelly]

Is it no better since you have done the work? Have the bubble stopped?

[tractor]

unfortunately the enormous size of my turbo rules out a retro ford water rail

Edited May 3, 2018 by tractor

[speedtripledan]

unfortunately the enormous size of my turbo rules out a retro ford water rail

your stuffed then

[Guest James24785]

Out of interest, what's wrong with the raceline rail design?

I plan on doing a fair few trackdays so if it's not upto the job then I will look into an alternative

[speedtripledan]

If you try and use a thermostat in the raceline it's situated to far from the original ford location in the head, this caused the problem of delayed opening causing my engine to rise 120deg before it opened, the only way it would sort work was with a partly opened bypass valve going round the stat and holes drilled in the stat. I also had to use a 82deg stat to get the engine at 85deg, the zetec is better at 90odd. Spent years messing with it and never got it to work properly. The retro ford unit on the hand has a 92stat one 3mm hole in the stat no bypass and works perfectly.

This was my experience your set up might perform better, they sold loads so they must work ?

Edited May 3, 2018 by DanE