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New To Robin Hood

Guest whatshisface

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Guest whatshisface

Hi there Guys and Girls



I am new to Robin Hood so please forgive me if i do anything wrong. My name is Oliver and i am hoping to get purchase something for the summer to have a nice drive around in. I have come across a Robin Hood on ebay located not to far away from me in Suffolk which is not to far away from me, but having little knowledge on RH i decided to join your club to see if anyone could point me in the right direction of what i should be looking for. Any help would be much appreciated.. if you could let me know what i should be looking for when buying that would be great.


All the best




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Guest whatshisface

Depends which model it is, they all have there individual quirks.


Would i be better posting the link to ebay? as i am not sure which model it is?

Edited by whatshisface
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Guest whatshisface

It would help yes, later robin hood's ie the 2b are the better ones but make sure it's double wishbone front suspension not sliding pillar.




So i asked the guy a few questions and he has come back to me with the following answer, i must admit he seems to answer all my questions to the best of his knowledge.


Q) What were the two advisories


A) slight play in the rear prop shaft UJ, and N/S steering rack becoming perished


Q) What is the car known as on the Log book


A) Log book states Robin Hood body type-sports


Q) When was the car built


A) The car was first registered in 1997,


Q) Has the car passed its SVA


A) He is not 100% on when the sva was done but assumed this was done before it was registered.


Q) Do you know how many miles the engine and gearbox has done?


A) around 95k


Q) When was the car last serviced


A) 2017 however the car hasn't done many miles since


Q) What brakes does it have


A) He is unsure of size but fronts are disc brakes and rear are drums


Q) Why is the car a q plate


A) he was told by the previous owner that the doner car was a q plate


Q) How much is tax


A) 6 months tax is £140.25 ( i guess this is because its a v8?)


If you think there is anything else i should ask then please let me know. Also please let me know if you think this would be a bit much for my first kit car.


Thanks everyone for your help in advance.



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Before you hand any cash over make sure car is correctly registered on logbook as Robin Hood, not Sierra sports or any other rubbish otherwise it hasnt had IVA test and is only worth a fraction of on the road price vehicle.

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Guest whatshisface

Thanks guys for you advise.. I totally can understand where you are coming from. Maybe the way forward is to watch out for a car that is known to the club to maybe become available, at least that way it will come with a depth of history.




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It's an Exmo, so 1997 build/registration sounds right. If this was the case then an SVA wouldn't have been needed, it was before SVA was introduced. I doubt it was built with a V8 though, not many were back in those days, so I suspect it's been converted some point since. Not a bad thing, but just check the V5 engine number and so forth, just make sure the V5 details match. There's no reason to worry, it looks honest enough, but do check it all the same. If the advert is true, then it's a straight enough car.


I would echo what Dan said about the additional engineering into the car for a V8. The Exmo was a nice roomy model so it's great for engine conversions, but the floorpan in the Exmo in the engine bay was structural and chopping any of it away would need some strength putting back in. Exmo's had their weak spots even without engine swaps! So, yeah, £5.5k for an Exmo is strong money... but if it's what someone wants, then I'm sure someone will pay it.

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Plenty of people on here who could tell you what needs to be done to strengthen the chassis. Make a cheeky offer.


Personally, I would (did) :


- Plate under the front butresses where the struts mount. You could do the top if the ride height changes worry you but I just put some 2mm steel plate in there and welded it in place to spread the load.

- Keep an eye on the seam welds that hold the entire front buttress on. In fact, just watch all the welds :) stainless steel isn't the most ideal material for standing up against fatigue, so I'm told

- The rear diff mounting plate in the "boot" was advised to be strengthened with additional bolts

- The engine bay "trays" in the Exmo had upturned folded edges on the inside to add strength/rigidity to the engine bay - all of the monocoque cars I would say are reliant on the folding and structure of the metal, so if *anything* has been cut away, I'd ask what has been done to put something back in. When I cut the trays on the Exmo to fit the K-Series, I welded a length of 1" square section tubular steel along the length of the engine bay, as close to the cut edge as possible.

- Put 3mm steel plate underneath the "rollover hoop" ends in the boot area. Now I know this rollover hoop is entirely cosmetic on the Exmo - do NOT rely on it to save your life - but I figured it might do a half-acceptable job if it could at least NOT punch down through the stainless if the car was to end up turned over! Having said that, it's probably a bit academic as I suspec the rollover hoop would rip out of the exhaust U-clamps before it had chance to do anything useful!

- If you do a tie-bar conversion, make sure you put a decent angled section of steel behind the tie-bar inner mounts - do NOT just bolt it into the stainless engine bay side! Nowhere near enough strength in it! It needs to be re-enforced on the inside with 3mm+ steel angle, bolted into both the engine bay side and floor.


From memory that's all I did on my Exmo... there may be more, others can advise. Rich (Steamer) is the ideal person to comment as he put a V8 in an Exmo!

Edited by brumster
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