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Pinto 2.0 running issues possibly carb?


nickp
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Hi,

new to the forum and the club (typing on phone so sorry for typo). 

Just bought a Robin Hood 2B with 2l pinto engine. It looks like there are a few issues and looking for some advice or pointers. 

1) When running if I put my foot full down the engine splutters, is this normal or possible overfueling? 

2) When idling it’ll run for a few minutes but eventually splutters to a stop. Perhaps carb need tuning?

3) It takes a few turns to start which ends up draining the battery very quickly, to the point I can’t start it without a jump. 

Has anyone had previous experience of this and suggested fixes or perhaps suggest a better suited battery to go for?

thanks

Nick

 

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Thanks all, will replace fuel regulator, then distribution cap, rotor arm, leads and plugs then look at tuning. 

Hopefully I can make it 50 miles home in its current form :S

Thanks again for all the advice! I only just picked up the car too. 

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Perfectly plausible guesses above. Could be any one or something else but this ideally should be a dialogue. Questions and answers both ways works best.

You have a 2.0pinto with an unknown carb, unknown ignition system and unknown fuel pump that is a poor starter, spluttery unreliable idle and hesitation on sharp acceleration.

What ignition system, what carb and what pump if I may ask? A pic of the left side of the engine bay to show those items would do. I would start by checking ignition timing and fuel pump output to eliminate those before concentrating on the carb checking and tuning. And I wouldn't waste money on buying new bits in a scattergun approach before making an attempt to identify the problems.

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1 hour ago, Longboarder said:

Perfectly plausible guesses above. Could be any one or something else but this ideally should be a dialogue. Questions and answers both ways works best.

You have a 2.0pinto with an unknown carb, unknown ignition system and unknown fuel pump that is a poor starter, spluttery unreliable idle and hesitation on sharp acceleration.

What ignition system, what carb and what pump if I may ask? A pic of the left side of the engine bay to show those items would do. I would start by checking ignition timing and fuel pump output to eliminate those before concentrating on the carb checking and tuning. And I wouldn't waste money on buying new bits in a scattergun approach before making an attempt to identify the problems.

I will get some pics in the morning to try and answer all the questions. 

Thanks again for for all the help. Very much appreciated!

I managed to get it back ok. I got stuck in a 2 mile tail back on the M6, I kept the revs up but even at 2k RPM it felt like the engine was getting flooded (started to splutter) and it needed a good rev to clear the spluttering.

Anyway, thanks again, will get back with pictures tomorrow. 

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Hi,

Welcome to the club!

Do check out if your battery is charging up with a multi meter. Making sure currant is constant while engine is running if it isn't check connections etc. Your battery shouldn't be draining?Tune up is always a good thing.

Dave 😎

 

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Here are some photo's and video's. I apologise in advance if any terminology is wrong! I went out today and it started cold first time like a treat...but when it was hot, same issues.

Photo file sizes are too large to embed unfortunately, but hopefully the higher resolution will help.

Left side engine:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6MwnyF5xNyR5W3Uu7

Distributor Cap:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xeQC4EDfA7DLPj3z9

Carbs:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/15G7urV13HMynGDu7

Fuel Filter:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sVyKQgGnjKPbEsMJ9

Fuel Reg:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hrBdEFhoB2g8DQQr9

Ignition System:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zsjfqPHyPGKSsFdF9

Idle when cold:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TYHrvnYL3ZAEaNFy9

Stalling on idle when it has warmed up:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZZCWN7asqYxsncxM8

Starting when hot:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LRPbfqYkCv4nfLk47

 

 

1 hour ago, Moog6 said:

Hi,

Welcome to the club!

Do check out if your battery is charging up with a multi meter. Making sure currant is constant while engine is running if it isn't check connections etc. Your battery shouldn't be draining?Tune up is always a good thing.

Dave 😎

 

I will get a multi meter on it tonight - I think it is charging because after running flat before the 50 mile journey home last night it was fully charged this morning. But I will check and report back on this!

 

 

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Brilliant set of pics and vids. I was not expecting bike carbs which are great once set up. Lumenition ignition with a modified bosch dizzy. The fuel regulator you show is a fuel pump. Worth having a good look at the blue cap. There will be white letters on it, 12v and a part number. The part number is critical as to its pumping pressure and you can look that up on the HARDI website to check its low enough for bike carbs. Afraid there's a big hole in my knowledge of bike carbs but plenty here who know lots. That's a grubby old filter of the correct type so could do with a change.

I would check timing with a strobe on the crank pulley and clean the dizzy. Remove and check the plugs and probably refit them. Their colour should tell you a lot about how rich or lean it's running.

I would pull one of the fuel hoses from the filter and run it into a milk bottle and switch on the ignition to confirm good steady fuel flow.

Check cam timing if you can.

I suspect those will all be OK. Then it's down to the carbs and you I can't advise on those.

Overall I think its a nice if very untidy set-up which has loads of potential. I expect there is a hot cam in there to go with the bike carbs. A tidy and clean , a bit of carb tuning and it will purr.

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Thanks All. It's quite daunting when you get an issue like this and not familiar with the setup so all these pointers are great!

I'll check all the items mentioned and provide an update when I've got through them all - it'll be a few days as I'm doing this around work too.

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Update: today I changed the leads and plugs. Still to do: dizzy cap, ignition timing and all other suggestions  

Pictures of plugs, assuming cylinder 1 is closest to driver. Certainly worth changing but looks like it’s running rich? 

cylinder 4

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pSYJPuf7AybhYKPt7

cylinder 3 https://photos.app.goo.gl/tc5fcZV7Cku77BZYA

Cylinder 2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ua1sZYbxfDtwL3qv5

cylinder 1

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8RkRW2d499VDprYSA

 

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