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For the main side panel, we started at the bottom, attaching the PVC skirt to the lower panel with the pegging toggles between the 2 parts. Two identical window panels were then marked out and had the adhesive tape put around the edges so we could fold the double thickness edges. The window panels were then laid out on the materials so we could mark out the side panels. We keep checking, measuring and overlaying the panels to make sure they’re the right size before cutting to save material wastage. The biggest confusion as adding a allowance for the folded over edges. For a 1.5cm folded edge we mark 2 lines 3cm apart, cut along one and fold the cut edge to the second line. This means our finished size is actually a line in between the 2 marked lines. The cut out side panels and a centre strip were sewn to the 2 windows. The lower and upper panels still need to be added, together with the zip and these will be in the next installment.

Loads of progress today.... Complete MX5 steering column mounted. It should be IVA friendly as it retains the full collapsible section. The lower mount just needs finished I also got my modified prop back and fitted in: Rose jointed panhard rod is now finished and fitted albeit without the misalignment spacers. One end is a right hand thread and the other a left hand thread so by spinning the tube with both ends connected up, it lengthens/shortens accordingly without the need for removal. Roll cage is finished. Please excuse the trick nuts on the side mounts lol. They'll be chopped off obviously. I know it would be class with the side bars too but I'm fed up with the cage by now. I might add them in at a later stage. Fuel cell mount made up and fitted in I got a good bit done for a day's work

FINALLY, we've done some proper tuning on the turbo pinto! There is more to come, but this isn't a bad start https://youtu.be/QL1Tx4BMMPE

Oh yes. Shouldn't be too long before these engines are in the kits

Finally after 12+ years, she is complete and registered. Had its maiden voyage today. i find it hard to believe these cars are road legal. Before its next trip I have to raise it a little as the sump guard caught a couple of times. Wow, that was fun. Thanks for the help over the years. Jeremy

Boom! Top coat came out great!

2wd Cossy is the long cable.

This will be at the George and Dragon Meaford Rd, Meaford, Stone ST15 0PX starting at 19.30 There will be a classic car event on at the same time so lots to look at. Also this would be a good opportunity to bounce some ideas around regarding things to do for the rest of this year including, run outs, monthly meeting locations, convoy to Stoneleigh, visiting other area meets, mods, tyre kicking and anything else that springs to mind All welcome, kits or not, i`ll be in the tin top until probably next month. Hope to see you there. Andi https://www.georgedragonmeaford.co.uk/ https://www.google.com/maps/place/George+%26+Dragon/@52.9153725,-2.1690854,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x53726cf3a32a2400!8m2!3d52.9153725!4d-2.1690854 Manage Event Report Event Download Event Add Similar Event

Looking good! Is the floor covering new too?

Red isn't a colour I've ever consider using for trim but I must say, it really does go well with the BRG.

Not looked at the old diagrams in fault finding detail in ages. The latest stored diagrams are from 2006. Will put both 83BG and 87BG pics up. As you have ignition lives to both stalk and motor but it runs constantly even if the one on the motor is removed I would think that proves the motor is OK and wired OK. That leaves the assumption that there is a live input whenever the ignition is on into pin 5 onto the motor regardless of the wiper switch position. Therefore either there is an odd ignition live in the loom feeding that wire somewhere in the loom between the switch and motor or the wiper switch is faulty and feeding that wire even in the off position. You can trouble shoot by disconnecting the plug from the column switch, ignition on and see if you still have 12v at the end of the wire at pin 5 on the motor. If you have then its a loom short between that wire and an ignition live. If however there is no 12v at the pin5 wire then the fault is in the column switch and output terminal 53 is getting connected to terminal 54 constantly within the column switch. Remove the column switch and test the pins. With the wiper switch OFF pins 54, 53B and 53-2 should be isolated. 53 and B1 should show they are connected to each other in the off position In slow position 53B, 53-2 and B1 isolated. 53 and 54 connected. Fast position 53, 53-2 and B! isolated. 53B and 54 connected.

Well done on the steady commitment. Looks VG. Couple of adjustment points to bear in mind on suspension. The 'floor pan' line should be slightly higher at the back than at the front. Your pic suggests it's currently slightly higher at the front. Shocks should be at rest with two third of their piston shaft exposed as a starting point. i.e. if the shock has a piston shaft that allows three inches of movement, meaning shaft invisible when fully compressed, 3" visible when fully extended, then at rest you should see two inches of exposed shaft. This is to allow adequate shock extension and compression available so suspension movement is controlled, not on the bump stops. (Does require you to have the correct length shocks for the car.) Corner weighting is a refinement for later but is more about getting the sum of the diagonals closer to equal than each side equal. All done loaded ie one or two passenger weights in the seats half tank of gas and the car rolled on the level to settle the suspenders. Although it is important that it looks nice it's more important that it works nice with these cars.

I love how at this stage, it gets better looking with each little addition Engine cleaned, painted and dropped in tomorrow with all wishbones on. Might even get the rear axle in too if I can get the rose jointed rear arms done in time.

Looks great. I found the same when spraying my roll bar that it used far more paint than I expected, I suppose a lot of misses the tube when you spray

Looks good, keep it up

I am using the standard 2wd Cosworth cable in mine and it's able to go under the sump and fit square on with the clutch arm with no tight bends. Only real reason to go hydraulic would be if a competition clutch is used due to the heavier springs. I am using a T5 gearbox but I think the opening is similar (nearside). Removing the brake servo should be straightforward but if it's not getting in the way seems counter productive. If you do remove the servo you may require to get a bigger master cylinder according to the brakes you have, I have used the calipers from the Cosworth and these are 4 pot front. With my installation I have no room for a servo so the master is a bigger bore unit to make the pressure light enough - would have failed the IVA with too high brake pedal pressure.

So I had it sand blasted yesterday: And today I set about etch priming and painting it. Looks well it etch primer! That was time consuming job and it used far more primer than I expected! Paint will be done tomorrow

Agree just use the longer cosworth clutch cable and cable it is fine. Can’t remember now if it is the 4x4 or 2wd one that is needed... @richyb66 will be able to confirm

Hi John, A lot of cars run without brake servo, just remember to press harder but I’m with Richy on the hydraulic clutch. Don’t do it cable is easier to fix and adjust.

Why the change to hydraulic operation, cable works well and has much less to go wrong. This may be why I can't recall anyone having done it before.

Buy new ---- Odyssey PC68 is sat in Florin's boot & around £80.00 when purchased --- supposed to last about 5 years --- ours is 7 years old now. S/hand is an unknown life left.

I will try and make this, which will mean I'll have done area meets on 3 consecutive weeks.

For no particular reason, we decided to start with the end panel with the window. The donor window was too wide and too high and while reducing the height was just a matter of cutting off the bottom, reducing the width was a bit more complicated. The middle of the roll up panel has toggle hole in it to hold it up, so we had to reduce the width evenly each side. The meant unpicking the side zips from the window and flyscreen and re-using them. This is one side of the roll up window where the zip has been removed. You can see that the plastic is folded back on itself and stitched through to give a stronger seam. Once the zips were removed, we could cut down the individual panels and then sew it all back together. Here’s the finished window, it’s upside down and you can see the flyscreen and roll up panel and then the main window underneath the spirit level. Across the top of the window we added a strip of Velcro that will be used to attach the curtains and some recycled loops of material and toggles that hold the rolled-up window. Once the window was the correct size, we could add the panels either side. These are just strips of the new blue awning fabric that has 1.5cm folded over either side. The would prevent the material fraying and give a strong seam where it was stitched to the double thickness window. The biggest problem was folding a seam on the window, we did try ironing the plastic with a cool iron, but it was impossible to get the temperature constant enough to form a crease without overheating the plastic which caused it to tear easily. In the end we used double sided adhesive dress making tape which worked well also used the tape in places to hold the panels together prior to stitching as it was quicker, easier and neater than a lot of pinning. The seams were all double stitched meaning we sewed the join once and then had to do a second run of stitching trying to keep the two parallel. We then made the top panel which overhangs so the roll-up window so it can be tucked away behind. The top panel had a strip of white bias binding sewed to it to prevent fraying and to add a decorative feature. 10cm above this is the seam where the panel is attached to the top of the window. The top edge of the panel has a piece of binding on it that was a failed sewing attempt. Rather than unpick it, we just turned the panel round and this area will be eventually cut off. Also visible in the photo above is a radius template we made for marking out the fabric. We needed to have several different radii on the panels and then fold a 1.5cm seam around them. By making templates from some spare signboard, we could do the marking out quickly and easily. When we’d got to this stage, we realised we’d not used any of the donor white fabric. However, the white binding and markings on the windows provide a nice contrast to the blue so we carried on just using the new fabric. Across the bottom of the panel, we added another strip of blue material which had the grey PVC material sewn to it. The blue part will extend to within 5cm of the ground and then the PVC folds inside the awning to go under the groundsheet. In the join between the blue and grey, we stitched in the plastic toggles the are used for pegging out. The plastic is around 1mm thick but doesn’t seem to be an issue for the machine to sew through. The grey PVC also seems to go well with the blue and white and gives a good idea what the finished awning will look like. With the main panel sewn together, we marked out the position of the zip and this was also sewn on. The zip still needs to be shortened one end.

Hi Everyone, Been busy with Moog's Electrics on the dash, all done! To Fin Moog, armrests, inner side panels, central column panel, bot dash panels, rear boot upper and lower inner panels, rubber flooring -driver & passenger sides (Same as boot), Metal panels front of bottom seats to fin off look. Fit 2 main speakers and tweeters (Bot of Dash), make up 2 deco metal panels (In front of Speakers to beginning of arm rests), fit new spare wheel support & rear Number plate + Light, fit fog lamp & Reverse lamp. At a later stage, extend top of hood to reach windscreen frame, fit hinges to windscreen frame for doors & Have a boot cover made. Moog 6 will then be finished!!! Dave. PICS TO FOLLOW...….

The running gear would transfer over, you may be able to use the nose cone and rear arches with a bit of modification, and maybe the bonnet? Scuttle possibly as well. The rest of the body panels on the s7 are actually the chassis though and so couldnt be used.