Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Here are the 3 options. Just the deflectors, doors added and then with the roof. All in all, not too bad. Certainly, longer winded than I was expecting, mostly due to the deflectors. I haven’t kept exact track of the hours, but I reckon at least 60 over the last few weeks so not a job I’d have managed easily if I’d been working and probably more like a winter project.
  2. 3 points
    I finally got round to fitting the under kitchen cupboard lighting that the missus has been going on about for ages. Apparently I've done the wrong kitchen
  3. 2 points
    We exhibit with our own stand with cars motorcycles etc. The orange locost has got Lotus badge's on the nose and wheel centres put on by the previous owner A white haired gent on a mobility scooter came over and with a big grin nodded to the locost and said, "pushing it a bit aint it". I thought another know all only to find he was a mechanic with Colin Chapman's formula one team and his twin brother was also part of the team. We had a good laugh and a long very informative chat. His knowledge and experience made me feel like a novice even though having built cars and bikes for years. Bill Williams. I
  4. 2 points
  5. 1 point
    In this weeks video I finish off the prep and get to painting the engine bay of the 1958 Ford Prefect 100e in Subaru Mica Red, and boy does it look good! I wasn't sure this was the right thing to do, but in the end the result is exactly what I wanted.
  6. 1 point
    Obviously in the current climate the EOSB date is still tentative but we are making every effort to run the event on the planned dates. Today is the 1st July so entries for the Early Bird Prize draw have ended but a big thank you to every one who has purchased tickets so far and helped to show support for the event. The following people will be entered in to the prize draw, Good Luck! Kerry A 5 entries Sharon A 5 entries Mark B 5 entries Dean R 3 entries Danielle R 3 entries Chris S 2 entries mark T 2 entries Denise J 2 entries Mark E 1 entry Sharon E 1 entry Paul L 1 entry Ken F 1 entry
  7. 1 point
    It’s a brand new engine and the commissioning procedure is to high idle 2000 / 3000 rpm for 15 minutes. Then drain oil and discard oil filter . it was raining yesterday that’s the liquid.....
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Brake cleaner for me but I but it in a 5 litre can for around £12 because it works out much cheaper than the spray cans.
  10. 1 point
    so got a date weekend of the 18/7/20 you can stay on the friday and sunday night if you want its £15 a night per tent / caravan and maybe hook up if required there is a toilet and shower it is only a small place but basically we have a field there are some woods and a canoe launch onto river tame so if you are interested then book your place a £5 deposit required by paypal to chrismith2@msn.com
  11. 1 point
    From having the bonnet up.
  12. 1 point
    You get what you pay for with wrap. 3M or Avery are probably the best. If you're only wrapping a trailer tent and it's mostly flat (no compound curves) then a cheaper wrap will probably do the job. I used cheap Ebay wrap on Rhocaravan and it's been fine but it doesn't live outside which probably helps.
  13. 1 point
    2p/L was purely illustrative but yeah. You can find the number of litres sold per year from the web easily and I’m sure it wouldnt be hard to find the number of cars and total duty paid. Might have a google later out of interest.
  14. 1 point
    It’s time they abolished it. Add two pence per L on fuel and it’s fair. More miles, more fuel, more tax paid. No one can dodge it. No admin costs. No need to check if you have it. No need to SORN. No need to have different bands for gas guzzlers they will use more fuel thus pay more tax. I just don’t see the problem.
  15. 1 point
    The thing to do with the gauges is to get used to what they normally show and only worry if they start showing something different - ignore the numbers. As long as the sensor to the ECU is working right, the gauge is just to warn you of a change in the status quo. My coolant temp gauge always shows 5-10 degC less than the Emerald software gets from the main sensor, my voltage gauge is always 1V less than a multimeter across the battery and the less said about my fuel gauge, the better If you want accurate gauges, buy a normal car...
  16. 1 point
    I’m pretty sure all Lucas 14W motors are interchangeable. The variations for manufacturers were 1 or 2 speed, sweep angle and length of tube and cable. Best to get a 2speed if you can. I don’t think you can tell the sweep angle from the outside as it’s marked on the gear under the cover SVC has lots of parts and some useful info at https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/wiper-systems/
  17. 1 point
    The sweep angle is stamped on the gear itself inside the motor, I don't the the motor part number necessarily gives a clue to this.
  18. 1 point
    Pretty sure the dax ones are 2cv ones.
  19. 1 point
    In this video we reach an almost Project Binky / Bad Obsession Motorsport level of bracket obsession, just without the engineering and fabrication skills that they have. I did get my welder repaired though and do some welding of brackets in this video too, so there is that...
  20. 1 point
    Good news! We're all here to help if we can.
  21. 1 point
    The other thing you need to remember is that the Eaton produces boost through external compression. What this means is that the air isn't really compressed inside the charger and they only work if the pressure differential across the charger itself is relatively narrow. The ideal situation is to be moving a large volume of air, but still at ambient pressure.The actual boost is generated by this increased volume of air downstream of the charger. This probably isn't what you'd expect but it does help to explain why having pressure back up in to the charger (and at the same time a closed throttle on the inlet) causes a large pressure differential, which leads to heat, rotor expansion and failure. If you're particularly bored, there's plenty on the internet that goes in to more detail.
  22. 1 point
    So it sounds like you have nothing controlling boost. Eaton is positive displacement so the boost level is similar at all speeds. If it's generating boost at idle and the plenum throttle is closed, you'll get pressure backing up in to charger which will cause heat build up and possibly belt slip. Ideally you'd want the clutched pulley and actually stop the charger when you don't need the boost but for now, I'd be putting a blow off valve between the charger and the intercooler to stop the pressure and heat build up. If the charger overheats it will basically kill it. Your bypass valve needs to operate based on inlet manifold vacuum. I'd also only be using the throttle and TPS on the charger inlet. Having a second one on the plenum seems an unnecessary refinement / complication at this stage. The only refinement I'd add would probably be an idle air control valve on the plenum throttle body so you have some tunability to your idle.
  23. 1 point
    So how are you controlling the boost? Can you disconnect the charger outlet and just vent it to atmosphere. This will eliminate over boost inside the charger and you can try and bottom out the heat issue.
  24. 1 point
    My God would you look at that unbelievable shes not wearing a mask
  25. 1 point
    Rear fog lamp switch. £FREE posted. Just so someone can have a spare. Alternator bracket.Adjusts from 75mm to 150mm. Struggled to get a decent photo against my black workbench so apologies for the improvisation. £2 posted.
  26. 1 point
    Fitting Cosworth 4-pots to the 1958 Ford Prefect Turbo Pinto FINALLY! It seems both an eternity and only 5 minutes ago that I called Steve Walford Motorsport to discuss modifying these calipers to fit the kit far setup, and then just after they were done plans changed and we started the ball rolling in the 100e instead! How does this relate to the 100e? Well we carried the uprights over from the kit car, and the wheels, and so the brakes should drop straight on just like we intended, and boy, are they gonna look good!
  27. 1 point
    I’m a spark but at the moment I don’t have time to fart. If you can wait a few weeks I’m happy to help out.
  28. 1 point
    To be honest I'm not that bored at the moment. After having done this one I need a bit of a break before I take on any more.
  29. 1 point
    Hmmm I wonder??? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Filler-Carbon-Console-Organizer-Cellphones/dp/B085H8K7C5/ref=sr_1_63?dchild=1&keywords=car+cup+holder&qid=1591556351&s=automotive&sr=1-63
  30. 1 point
    Caffeine and red bull to focus whilst driving at speed
  31. 1 point
    Are right, so Mr Logical eventually surfaced,(thanks in no small part to the Brumsters spread sheet and Peters comments), I decided to start at the beginning and work my way to the end. Try a pedal ration of 3.56 to 1 without a servo.....don't see how a 19mm master cylinder is going to compensate for that.
  32. 1 point
    First option eBay item number: 233580963526 Multi-buy Buy 1- £3.07 each Buy 2- £2.89 each
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Just keep at it. It looks like you've done a good job so far.
  35. 1 point
    I've often thought of doing one but then I can't imagine how a cup of coffee will survive the ride quality of a kit - I can imagine it will be like having a small volcano in the car
  36. 1 point
    It's due to the inertia of the charger. Even disconnected there's a rotating mass that needs to be sped up and slowed down according to the engine speed. The drive between the two is just friction and if the belt tension isn't sufficient, it will slip on the pulleys. Big chargers on V8's often run a toothed belt because a multi vee won't transmit the power. In this case the drive is direct as the belt can't slip but it's essential to have some slack in the belt to take up shock loading. Usually this means being able to twist the belt 90 degrees at the centre of its longest length.
  37. 1 point
    Auto tensioner is a must. You'll struggle to get the belt tight enough without one and even if you did, if there's run out on any of the pulleys, the belt will squeal. In addition, a tensioner adds some damping effect between the charger and the engine to allow small variations in their speed. Consider one on a sprung arm if there's space. Compared to one built in to the pulley hub, you get a much greater range of movement meaning the belt length is less critical. Also the arms normally has a 1/2" square drive recess to move them making belt changes a doddle. P38 Range Rover V8 is a good example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-0L-4-6L-V8-Fan-Belt-Tensioner-Bearmach-Part-ERR6439/282617835102?fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+II&epid=1134522428&hash=item41cd55ee5e:g:RawAAOSwrklU52jA Mounting is via a single bolt and a cast lug on the back to prevent rotation against the belt tension.
  38. 1 point
    You are best looking for redseven engineering on Facebook as hes done a few supercharged kit cars and should be able to help
  39. 1 point
    Here's a link to the google spreadsheet, so you can muck about with any values you like : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LQSbKlyGIUP5RQsNfQq0tfoluxTSvHvBSelTBwvNDs0/edit?usp=sharing
×
×
  • Create New...