Snapperpaul
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Posts posted by Snapperpaul
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I am going to the Malvern show and maybe the Newark show as well. Malvern is a camping job Newark I can do in a long day
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On 1/8/2023 at 11:42 AM, richyb66 said:
Yes I've still got it.
I’ll take it, posted please, message me to sort payment and postal address Ta
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Do you still have this? I have had problems with clutch pedal position on my car and this would probably solve the problem
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A friend with a sliding pillar 2b bought the double wishbone kit and fitted it, I have photos of what needs to be cut and where the brackets go somewhere, send me your email and I’ll look them out for you.
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I have done a huge amount with the car over the last year and am now going to look at the geometry in a bit more detail, currently I have camber wedges on the back and little else, I have looked at the Haynes build your own sports car by Chris Gibbs, some very old notes from Track Developments and came across Caterham CSR settings and this is the confusion I am trying to deal with.
across the 3 the range for camber front is 0.25-1.5 degrees
rear 0.66-2 degrees
caster 5.5-6 degrees (CSR only)
Toe front 0-0.5
rear 0.16-3
i am tempted to start with the Haynes settings but for now what are other peoples RH S3 settings for Caster, Camber & Toe Front and Rear
thanks
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I have been meaning to do this for some time on my S3, the problem is that I have Cobra seats with the seatbelts going over a crossbar on the roll bar and through the seats but mounting on the rear of the car meaning I need 2 pockets for the seats and some strategically placed cutouts and zips or Velcro, clearly this is way beyond my skills.
where do I go? Who can help?
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I took the frame apart, drilled and tapped the holes, shortened the cap head bolts and checked clearance.
I fitted the glass with bicycle inner tube originally so easy to get apart.
I fitted reversed rivnuts in to the lower frame to fit the completed frame to the support arms.
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I would buy new pistons and have them flush to block deck which is better for squish, you then have the opportunity to adjust compression ratio with gasket thickness and head skim
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On 9/30/2022 at 7:02 PM, Darren Knowles said:
Hi ian
have you a picture of it please would you know size where it connects yo 4-1 , cant be as loud as the cherry bomb !
cheers DarrenOh yes it is, my original RH can (I won’t call it a silencer as it was more of an amplifier) was way to load for SVA which had a 101db limit, I ended up having a silencer made, 1” wider and twice as long, re-packable and so much more liveable
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Have sent photos on one of my engines, this manifold was used once on an engine dyno I stayed with the standard Robin Hood manifold as it was already fitted to the car
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On 9/21/2022 at 5:15 PM, Nathan parker said:
Nathan.p22@me.com
Thanks again have you got a full system
No I don’t have a full system for it
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Will do, it’s at a barn I rent so give me a couple of days.
send me your email and I’ll send photos. On the dyno I made 170bhp with this manifold
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I’ve got an over the side rail stainless 4 branch available, only used on an engine dyno for a few runs from new.
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Whilst ignition timing can cause sluggish starting my issue was engine earth strap, as always I over engineered the solution but it worked.
I found that there wasn’t a strap from gearbox mounting bolt to chassis so fitted one.
The earth strap from battery to engine was too thin, earth straps should be the same thickness as the +VE strap so I fitted the right thickness from battery to engine bay floor near the starter, from there I ran 1 earth to the bell housing bolt engine side and another direct to starter motor attachment bolt and this did the trick, starter ran faster and even starts my high compression 2.1 Pinto with wild cam and very advanced idle ignition
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I was thinking of doing something similar to the rear of my S3 but never got round to it.
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I made my own one up but it seems that option is no longer valid. I got hold of a blank Robin Hood VIN plate, stamped it and riveted it to the engine bulkhead. I stamped the chassis in several places that are hidden under trim or in hard to get at places so if the car was stolen it would still be possible to identify it even if the obvious VIN stamping were cut out.
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I agree with Matt, I saw Rusty take his linkage off and the main problem was it had been cut and welded to the original anodised steel tubing and that causes a weak weld
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I used the grey leatherette over soft yoga mat with some green trim. I used 38mm plastic waste pipe for the required edge profile, it looks good and feels about right, slightly harder camping mat has been used on the side panels under the carpet, softer yoga mat on the tunnel top.
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The rod with F cast in is a later cast steel rod, Des Hammill’s book says it’s good to 7200 with standard piston and pin but I always use ARP rod bolts as it is cheap insurance against rod bolt breakage
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Bob my FR32 cammed engine produces max bhp @ 5600 to 5700 rpm max torque is 4200
my RL31 cammed engine was 173 bhp @ 6600 and 153 ft/lbs @ 4800 so I would expect the FR33 to sit around the middle of my 2 cams.
would have to set the rev limiter to 7k but that said my FR32 engine runs injection rods and standard injection head and see’s 7500 on occasions the RL31 is built for near 8k but rev limit will be at 7500
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£370 sounds reasonable you’ll want main and big end bearings, injection rods are better than no-injection rods, you’ll be limited to 7k rpm which means your camshaft choice should reflect this.
on my engines the FR32 was a good street cam but I felt I needed a bit more, the RL31 cam is the most extreme I have tried and the one featured in the Penguin motors videos
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Just add that Graham started off by putting his Weber’s and modified distributor on my engine to get a base tune he was confident with, a standard distributor won’t cut it if you want to get the most out of your combination of bits.
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I am your man for info…
I have built 2 x 2.1 Pinto’s one with +2.25 Pinto pistons and one with 93mm V6 pistons machined for circlips using Cosworth rods.
you may know that I have spent months on Penguin motors dyno and my engine is in 5 of his YouTube videos and was in 3 Classic Ford magazine articles.
First, if I was doing it again I wouldn’t got straight to 2.1, it’s only a 5% increase in capacity.
I would consider forged pistons as you can stop worrying about breaking a cast piston.
you need to work out what you want from the engine in so much as the cams that give you high power will push the peak torque and power way up the rev range and let’s be honest, it’s a road car.
Even though I had an ex-race head it wasn’t as good as it could have been, not many people can build a good head.
I based my 2.1 build on a very old Classic Ford article where they went full 2.1 with Vulcan engineering finishing it off, it made 166bhp, I made 175bhp but the Vulcan heads are still very good it’s just that Classic Ford didn’t make the best of it.
Cosworth rods are longer (and forged) so the V6 pistons being shorter make the total length the same as a standard rod and piston.
Small Vs big bore exhaust *
36mm 38mm chokes
Distributor Vs mapped
Weber Vs Bike carbs
2.1 Bike carb test
what I would say is that the videos do t paint the full picture and after much fiddling with bike carbs and Megajolt they worked well with the Robin Hood 4-1 manifold and only dropped a few bhp and torques over the Weber’s, that said a 4-2-1 was better.
I am happy to engage in more detail
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The recommissioning of my S3 is stumbling forward at a staggeringly slow pace but I’m starting to look at geometry.
tie bars, Gaz coil overs. 180lbs rear 120lbs front and camber wedges.
what are the settings for toe, camber and caster front and rear?
I want to get it in the ballpark before tweaking it on the road, currently it’s a bit lively at the rear but planted at the front.
TIA
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Tin box, noisy when it rains, condensation, in hot weather it’s like a sauna, they always rust and hammerite paint is so much more expensive than wood stain or wood paint and then there is lightning…